Legs
usually riding on Zwift...
- Location
- Staffordshire
A bit of a funny one, so bear with me.
My 7yo has taken to riding Zwift on his mountain bike on my Neo2T (he started last week and has ridden about 90 miles!). Unfortunately, because of the long chainstays and short cranks, the cadence sensor doesn't reliably detect his feet passing, so we get a display of 63-65rpm on the screen, irrespective of how fast his little legs are going round! When going uphill (anything >5%), he bogs down, the cadence display drops off, and he finds it almost impossible to get going.
What I want to know is; is this a problem? Is the software adjusting his resistance on the basis of this spurious cadence? Or is it all catered for in the internal workings of the machine? I can't really gauge whether the resistance is realistic because my big feet trigger the sensors, and Andrew doesn't really know what feels right and what feels wrong. I suppose we should try with Trainer Difficulty turned down a bit?
I know there are workarounds, such as zip-tying a spanner to the crank... or getting a separate BLE cadence sensor... but do we actually need to do either of these?
My 7yo has taken to riding Zwift on his mountain bike on my Neo2T (he started last week and has ridden about 90 miles!). Unfortunately, because of the long chainstays and short cranks, the cadence sensor doesn't reliably detect his feet passing, so we get a display of 63-65rpm on the screen, irrespective of how fast his little legs are going round! When going uphill (anything >5%), he bogs down, the cadence display drops off, and he finds it almost impossible to get going.
What I want to know is; is this a problem? Is the software adjusting his resistance on the basis of this spurious cadence? Or is it all catered for in the internal workings of the machine? I can't really gauge whether the resistance is realistic because my big feet trigger the sensors, and Andrew doesn't really know what feels right and what feels wrong. I suppose we should try with Trainer Difficulty turned down a bit?
I know there are workarounds, such as zip-tying a spanner to the crank... or getting a separate BLE cadence sensor... but do we actually need to do either of these?