New fangled "through axles"

[BoldonLad]

I have recently purchased a new eBike (well, to be precise, two, one for myself, and, one for my wife). The wheels are fitted with these "new fangled" (to me, at least), through axles.
So far, I do not "get" the advantage over quick Release fittings:

I need to carry a suitable tool to remove the wheel (even a torque wrench to refit correctly, although, I suspect the "torquing" can be left until we get home)

It is more difficult to refit the wheel after removal, because it has to be aligned to allow the through axle to be inserted.

Am I missing something here?

 

[Supersuperleeds]

I have recently purchased a new eBike (well, to be precise, two, one for myself, and, one for my wife). The wheels are fitted with these "new fangled" (to me, at least), through axles.
So far, I do not "get" the advantage over quick Release fittings:

I need to carry a suitable tool to remove the wheel (even a torque wrench to refit correctly, although, I suspect the "torquing" can be left until we get home)

It is more difficult to refit the wheel after removal, because it has to be aligned to allow the through axle to be inserted.

Am I missing something here?

The wheel goes back on in the exact same place every time so no brake rub

One of my bikes I need an Allen Key to remove the bolt I carry one in the saddle bag, the other has a lever on it.

 

[Alex321]

I have recently purchased a new eBike (well, to be precise, two, one for myself, and, one for my wife). The wheels are fitted with these "new fangled" (to me, at least), through axles.
So far, I do not "get" the advantage over quick Release fittings:

I need to carry a suitable tool to remove the wheel (even a torque wrench to refit correctly, although, I suspect the "torquing" can be left until we get home)

It is more difficult to refit the wheel after removal, because it has to be aligned to allow the through axle to be inserted.

Am I missing something here?

With disc brakes, exact wheel alignment is more important, and through-axles allow for that. They also can't come out of the dropouts if the force is too high, which is why they are becoming more common than QR even on non disc bikes.

With mine, there is a locating cup shaped ridge around the hole to help get the wheel in the right place without much fiddling for alignment.

And if you carry a multitool, then it should have the right size of hex key. I've never worried too much about torque settings for the through axle either, and have had enough punctures to have taken the wheel on and off plenty of times.

 

[DRM]

This ^^^ mine has thru axles as well as the above points, it also stops any slight twisting motion if you have to brake hard, the only thing on my fork is the threaded side is in a bushing that can fall out, but if you’re aware of that you can catch it, but should you damage the thread, then you can easily replace it

 

[BoldonLad]

Interesting. Perhaps, they are an improvement.

Thank you

 

[MichaelW2]

In MTB racing they provide a stiffer , stronger connection between the suspension legs and better disk braking. They could shave fractions of a second off your best times to the shops.

 

[cougie uk]

Wouldn't you always have an Allen key with you anyway ?

Tbh I do prefer my QR wheels and I think my rim brakes are stronger than my hydraulics - certainly in the dry.

 

[T4tomo]

Interesting. Perhaps, they are an improvement.

Thank you

TA's came about to eliminate some perceived / actual* issues with the combo of disc brakes and QR skewers so generally seen as an improvement in operation, and only marginally slower to wheel change, but zero chance of misaligning your wheel when replacing

*bit of debate about this - google if interested

 

[Chislenko]

Wouldn't you always have an Allen key with you anyway ?

Tbh I do prefer my QR wheels and I think my rim brakes are stronger than my hydraulics - certainly in the dry.

The way the market is going I think those of us who prefer to stay with rim brakes will eventually have to go to a wheel builder to get replacement wheels. Another manufacturer, Enve, have announced there new range yesterday, disc only wheels and it does appear to be the trend.

 

[Alex321]

Wouldn't you always have an Allen key with you anyway ?

I would hope so. I certainly always carry a multitool which includes relevant allen keys.

Tbh I do prefer my QR wheels and I think my rim brakes are stronger than my hydraulics - certainly in the dry.

I can certainly understand preferring QR wheels, though once used to them I don't honestly find through axles much slower to take off/put on.

Your rim brakes will not be stronger than your hydraulic discs though. I have seen a fair number of comparisons, and every one ends up with no significant difference in stopping distance in the dry. Most say less force on the levers is required to stop in that distance with hydraulic discs than with rim brakes, but the limit of braking capability in both cases is the limit of adhesion between tyre and road, rather than how well the brakes can stop the wheel turning.

In the wet, of course, it is a whole different matter, with discs a clear (but noisy) winner.

 

[cyberknight]

agree with the above, my commuter has QR with cable discs, the rears ok but the front i need to tweak the brake setting every time i take the wheel out as it never sits dead right again .

 

[Milkfloat]

I would not even countenance a a new bike without thru axles, but then again neither would I consider rim brakes. Whilst there is nothing inherently wrong with QR and rim brakes, thru axle and disc brake are a significant improvement for me.

 

[Twilkes]

agree with the above, my commuter has QR with cable discs, the rears ok but the front i need to tweak the brake setting every time i take the wheel out as it never sits dead right again .

On my last bike I would have disagreed with this as it always sat perfectly each time, but my new one is very variable, and I'm not sure why. Theoretically it shouldn't really matter with you tighten up the QR side vs the nut side more, but I swear that I have corrected some disc rub by opening the QR lever, loosening the nut a few turns, tightening the QR a few turns, and then clamping the lever back down. As far as I can tell the wheel is always sitting in the dropouts the same way as I hold it in with my fingers and then lean on the saddle while I'm locking the QR lever.

 

[cyberknight]

On my last bike I would have disagreed with this as it always sat perfectly each time, but my new one is very variable, and I'm not sure why. Theoretically it shouldn't really matter with you tighten up the QR side vs the nut side more, but I swear that I have corrected some disc rub by opening the QR lever, loosening the nut a few turns, tightening the QR a few turns, and then clamping the lever back down. As far as I can tell the wheel is always sitting in the dropouts the same way as I hold it in with my fingers and then lean on the saddle while I'm locking the QR lever.

i find holding the brake on as you clamp the qr lever down helps but i found its never perfect, i only have single piston brakes though

 

[Twilkes]

i find holding the brake on as you clamp the qr lever down helps but i found its never perfect, i only have single piston brakes though

I might try that, although it seems to be something to do with how far each side of the fork flexes when the skewer is tightened. I have dual piston on the front so that might help.