New fangled "through axles"

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T4tomo

Legendary Member
i find holding the brake on as you clamp the qr lever down helps but i found its never perfect, i only have single piston brakes though

That's what I do be it a rim or disc brake bike, with a bit of weight or the bars or rear end to make sure it snuggs into the drop outs.
 

presta

Guru
i need to tweak the brake setting every time i take the wheel out as it never sits dead right again .

my last bike...always sat perfectly each time, but my new one is very variable, and I'm not sure why.
I used to have the same problem even with rim brakes, every time I repaired a puncture the wheel was in and out like a yoyo as I tried to get it to stop rubbing on the brakes.

It took a while, but eventually the penny dropped: it was the axle out of true, only very slightly, but it only takes a few thou. As the error was so small, I wasn't even sure that it wasn't just manufacturing tolerance, so buying a new one didn't seem like a good bet. Instead I just put a dot on one of the locknut flats with a centre punch: problem solved, I now just rotate the axle so the mark is always in the same position each time I refit the wheel. No more faff!

I've not noticed any problem with the axles on my new hubs, but then, I wouldn't do, as they've been marked since new anyway. This time I used red paint: it's easier to see.
 
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Twilkes

Guru
I used to have the same problem even with rim brakes, every time I repaired a puncture the wheel was in and out like a yoyo as I tried to get it to stop rubbing on the brakes.

It took a while, but eventually the penny dropped: it was the axle out of true, only very slightly, but it only takes a few thou. As the error was so small, I wasn't even sure that it wasn't just manufacturing tolerance, so buying a new one didn't seem like a good bet. Instead I just put a dot on one of the locknut flats with a centre punch: problem solved, I now just rotate the axle so the mark is always in the same position each time I refit the wheel. No more faff!

I've not noticed any problem with the axles on my new hubs, but then, I wouldn't do, as they've been marked since new anyway. This time I used red paint: it's easier to see.

Interesting, makes sense, and I will try that - I guess as long as the wheel and pads are aligned at the start you can put the marker anywhere, as long as you put the wheel back in the same place each time.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Just remember, when you pack the bike in the back of a car, remember to take the through axels with you. :hyper: I always double check they are in the boot.

Oh and Rock Shox Maxel through axels are made of cheese - you've got to be careful with the QR lever. Hence newer axels being 'strealth' - i.e. hex keys.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
The way the market is going I think those of us who prefer to stay with rim brakes will eventually have to go to a wheel builder to get replacement wheels.

To be fair that was always the way. Factory built unserviceable wheels with unobtanium spokes / anchor points are a relatively recent and passing fad. Buy hand-built wheels with decent quality hubs and freely available spokes, then hub bearings, broken spokes and worn/damaged rims can always be easily and relatively cheaply replaced.
 

SpokeyDokey

67, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
I would not even countenance a a new bike without thru axles, but then again neither would I consider rim brakes. Whilst there is nothing inherently wrong with QR and rim brakes, thru axle and disc brake are a significant improvement for me.

Likewise.

Cannot understand the aversion to either.

Discs stop whatever the weather conditions and TA's are a breeze to refit and mine take no longer to do so than QR's.
 

Brandane

Legendary Member
Location
Costa Clyde
Wouldn't you always have an Allen key with you anyway ?

Not an 8mm, as needed for the rear wheel on my through axle equipped bike. I have several multi tools, but they only go up to 6mm.
 
I have recently purchased a new eBike (well, to be precise, two, one for myself, and, one for my wife). The wheels are fitted with these "new fangled" (to me, at least), through axles.
So far, I do not "get" the advantage over quick Release fittings:

I need to carry a suitable tool to remove the wheel (even a torque wrench to refit correctly, although, I suspect the "torquing" can be left until we get home)

It is more difficult to refit the wheel after removal, because it has to be aligned to allow the through axle to be inserted.

Am I missing something here?

Exactly my thoughts when I first got a bike with TA.

2nd frame with them seems much improved though - thread is on the frame rather than a bolt at the end of the TA - and the wheel finds its correct place very easily. Well done Dolan bikes !
 

Smokin Joe

Legendary Member
One innovation that arrived too late was direct mount caliper brakes. More efficient than centre pivots with no risk of knocking the caliper off centre when removing and replacing a wheel. Unfortunately they arrived just as discs were taking off so a very useful upgrade was strangled at birth.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
I have both systems on my bikes. I have never had any issues from QR or thru axles. Both have worked great with disc brakes. Alignment with QR if slightly out is self aligned with a few pulls of the lever to allow pistons to adjust position
 

Soltydog

Legendary Member
Location
near Hornsea
The way the market is going I think those of us who prefer to stay with rim brakes will eventually have to go to a wheel builder to get replacement wheels. Another manufacturer, Enve, have announced there new range yesterday, disc only wheels and it does appear to be the trend.

To buck the trend FFWD used to make disc only wheels, but have recently introduced rim brake wheels to their range, so reckon they'll be around for a good while yet 🤞
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
I have recently purchased a new eBike (well, to be precise, two, one for myself, and, one for my wife). The wheels are fitted with these "new fangled" (to me, at least), through axles.
So far, I do not "get" the advantage over quick Release fittings:

I need to carry a suitable tool to remove the wheel (even a torque wrench to refit correctly, although, I suspect the "torquing" can be left until we get home)

It is more difficult to refit the wheel after removal, because it has to be aligned to allow the through axle to be inserted.

Am I missing something here?

I had similar experience recently. New e-road bike, hence quite heavy, with through axle on front. I need to remove front wheel to transport and then refit it. I found the thru-axle less easy to re-locate than Q/R on my old e-road. However, it gets easier with practice, and you may find shallow recesses machined into the fork drop-outs that help locate the wheel. Don't worry about torque wrenches. A standard allen key is sufficient or check the dimensions of the thru-axle/s carefully (usually printed on the axle) and buy either a replacement axle with lever attached or a removeable lever like this one.
 
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