Old style TREK MULTITRACK 700

[EltonFrog]

Nice looking bike, love the colour.

 

[Gravity Aided]

Something in a 7 speed click shifter, like a Shimano Acera or above, would be both reasonable and reliable.

 

[User32269]

I've got a couple of alivio groupsets put away for emergencies! Will be swapping one on to this. I find them absolutely bomb proof, and they usually fit without too many problems.

 

[User32269]

Fair point.

I would actually do this sharpish though as "the industry" is discontinuing lots of decent quality stuff for less than 10 speed. Move quickly odav and you should find some good prices. I would also buy in some spares of key components - then let the industry continue on its merry way to 16 speed or whatever. And just get on and enjoy your bike.

I've made a habit of throwing every bike that I've found left out for the scrap man in my van. I always carry a 15mm spanner and multi tool, this is the reason Mrs O despairs!
Ive salvaged dozens of 5,6&7 freewheels, lower end shimano chain sets, shifters & derailers. They have served me well in cheep restorations and fixing friends and family members bikes.
I'm running a bit low now!

 

[Blue Hills]

very true. That pic of mine you liked uses the original supposedly low end acera 20 year old front mech. Though originally used on a 7 speed set up on that bike, it works very well (with a trimming front click shifter) on the 9 speed I have built the bike up into.

I had assumed that the mech was scrap (it's pretty much all that came with the frame) but after having issues with a posher front mech, inspiration struck - I cleaned and lubed it and it all works fine. I think a near equivalent of that front mech is still available from some sources for less than £9. I intend to buy up a load quickly.

Once you get to 10 speed of course things get somewhat more complicated with this wonderful backwards compatibility.

Correction - they get totally ****ed.

PS - where are you? - might be worthwhile me whispering poison into Mrs 0's ear so that I can have your treasure trove thrown my way.

 

[Gravity Aided]

I've made a habit of throwing every bike that I've found left out for the scrap man in my van. I always carry a 15mm spanner and multi tool, this is the reason Mrs O despairs!
Ive salvaged dozens of 5,6&7 freewheels, lower end shimano chain sets, shifters & derailers. They have served me well in cheep restorations and fixing friends and family members bikes.
I'm running a bit low now!

Much the same situation as I have, but I got rid of a lot of things to another local bicycle recycler. Of course, there is still a double secret stash in the basement.

 

[User32269]

PS - where are you? - might be worthwhile me whispering poison into Mrs 0's ear so that I can have your treasure trove thrown my way.

Whisper what you want to my better half......just keep yer hands of my freewheels!

 

[User32269]

Got to get gear and brake cables adjusted and cut, but will be giving it a run out later.

 

[Blue Hills]

question and a suggestion.

when you say the frame is chromo, any more info than that?

If you do fully loaded touring on it (and I see no reason why you shouldn't) I would consider changing the brakes to V brakes.

Cantis are fine for round down use but you may find that going down some hills you will have a problem when loaded - you will stop but it may take a while. I changed one of my 90s Ridgebacks to V brakes. Deore brakes. Paired with the cheapest levers (I preferrred them to the more expensive ones I bought) cost me about £12. Brake pads come from discobrakes - also cheap. Sometimes, if you don't let them sucker you in, cycling can be so simple

 

[Spiderweb]

The bike that first got me back into cycling was a 1994 ( I think?) Trek 830 Mountain Track. I swapped the knobbly tyres for some slick tyres and swapped the rusty quill stem for an ahead adapter and longer stem. The Trek will go anywhere, I find the Cantis ok, 7 speed twist grip shifters work fine, the Cromo frame is surprisingly light and the bike is bulletproof.

 

[User32269]

question and a suggestion.

when you say the frame is chromo, any more info than that?

If you do fully loaded touring on it (and I see no reason why you shouldn't) I would consider changing the brakes to V brakes.

Cantis are fine for round down use but you may find that going down some hills you will have a problem when loaded - you will stop but it may take a while. I changed one of my 90s Ridgebacks to V brakes. Deore brakes. Paired with the cheapest levers (I preferrred them to the more expensive ones I bought) cost me about £12. Brake pads come from discobrakes - also cheap. Sometimes, if you don't let them sucker you in, cycling can be so simple

Just a bog standard cro mo frame, I think it's a 2001 model, later than I thought.
I don't really have any problems with the cantis, mainly the bike will be used for bombing about rough paths and canal towpaths, I like the cantis purely for the clearance.
Will put on mini v brakes if I ever go on full blown tour.

 

[Gravity Aided]

I used to always look for the Schwinns, Treks, and Cannondales, as well as Specialized bikes from this period. I find the Treks most amenable to repair, the Schwinns quite good on features, and the Specialized and Cannondales a little better made, but a bit more trouble sometimes to work on. In terms of group setand tubing, usually the Schwinn has the lowest quality group in class, and the Treks are a bit higher, Cannondale and Specialized usually a little better, with some notable exceptions. I'm still riding a Schwinn Impact from the 1990's as a 26" tourer, modified much as @Spiderweb has above. Built with a far lighter and better tubing from what one expects of a Schwinn, this bike also has the most lowly indexed Shimano group set imaginable. I also converted to drop bars. I also have 2 sets of wheels, one that will take from 1.5 to 3" tires+, and another for the 1-1.5" tires. Mini v's coming soon.

 

[User32269]

[QUOTE 4707388, member: 43827"]Nice, do anything bike.

Much like the Raleigh Pioneer, a lot of which we get donated to our community bike workshop. Easy to work on and, if looked after, will go on forever.[/QUOTE]
My Pioneer has sacrificed a few bits for the trek. Have put the trek bars on it. Going to become a 7 speed pub/shopping bike, using the twist grip and the saddle from the trek.

I like the Pioneers, solid old bikes.

 

[User32269]

I used to always look for the Schwinns, Treks, and Cannondales, as well as Specialized bikes from this period. I find the Treks most amenable to repair, the Schwinns quite good on features, and the Specialized and Cannondales a little better made, but a bit more trouble sometimes to work on. In terms of group setand tubing, usually the Schwinn has the lowest quality group in class, and the Treks are a bit higher, Cannondale and Specialized usually a little better, with some notable exceptions. I'm still riding a Schwinn Impact from the 1990's as a 26" tourer, modified much as @Spiderweb has above. Built with a far lighter and better tubing from what one expects of a Schwinn, this bike also has the most lowly indexed Shimano group set imaginable. I also converted to drop bars. I also have 2 sets of wheels, one that will take from 1.5 to 3" tires+, and another for the 1-1.5" tires. Mini v's coming soon.

The trek had pretty low grade kit, but I like the frame. I've used an A head converter and, depending on the riding position, plan to convert it to shallow drops with bar end shifters. Will be running it as it is now for a while though.