Outer Hebrides - May 2019

[Yellow Fang]

I have just come back from cycling the Outer Hebrides.
Tip 1: cycle northward, which I can see you're doing, because it can be very windy.
Tip 2: check the ferry timetables very carefully. For example, the 16:20 ferry from Tarbert to Uig only sails every other day. I think the ferry to Uig sails from North Uist the other days. The midday ferry from Bernerey to Leverburgh does not sail on Sundays, although it might do by May.
Tip 3: all the shops shut on Sundays, so get some food on Saturdays, or be near a hotel.
Tip 4: be prepared to alter your plans. In particular the ferries can be unpredictable. I met some cyclists who said they were stuck on Barra for their first three days because the high winds stopped the ferries from sailing. I hear high tides, or was it low tides, can affect the ferries too.

 

[mythste]

This is honestly all so useful, thanks! A few pointers;

1. We have taken time to print and laminate appropriate timetables, including ferries, and potential bailout campsites/hostels/etc.

2. When we get to Castlebay (Thursday), we are going south to camp at the southernmost point. This is a short journey and will allow us basic shops (Coop?) in Castlebay as we pass back through due north if any of us have forgotten anything crucial.

3. We plan to be off of Barra on Friday and barring any weather-related catastrophes, make a good distance on Saturday to build up some emergency/sightseeing time further north. (My biggest fear is, as above, being stuck on Barra for too long).

4. Hopefully, this early kick on will make the rest of the journey perfectly leisurely, but being as the only deadline on the Outer Hebrides is the ferry from Tarbert, we can cut short and head straight over if needs be.

Brushing up on my trangia recipes now

 

[Yellow Fang]

If you get in trouble, there is a company called HebShuttle you can call to bring your bicycles back. We were told by someone at a hostel that you can put your bike on the ordinary coaches, I think in the luggage compartment. We were seriously considering this because we were worried about fighting a strong head wind over the Harris hills back to Tarbert. In the end, the wind was no problem, but we could have struggled to average 8 mph if it had been against us.

South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist are flat. Barra is fairly hilly, at least on the east side. Lewis is fairly flat. Harris is very hilly. There is an enormous hill leaving Tarbert north towards Lewis. It's not just long and steep, but there can be a stiff cross wind. We had to walk up much of that. Once you're past that hill, it is not too bad.

Most people think the sands on West Harris are worth a visit. When it's sunny, the sea is turquoise and the beach is golden. The road from these beaches on the north side of South Harris is very hilly.

Keep an eye out for cafes because there are not many of them and are often not very well advertised.

The roads are in surprisingly good condition, but they are often single lane. There are lots of passing places, but it gets a PITA stopping for oncoming traffic all the time, which they tend to expect you to do, notwithstanding that they seem wide enough for a car to pass a cyclist.

The hostel in Berneray is a nice place to wait if you get stuck waiting for the ferry on a Sunday when everywhere is shut.

The Co-ops stay open late, at least in Castlebay, but some other food shops tend to close about 5pm.

 

[mythste]

If you get in trouble, there is a company called HebShuttle you can call to bring your bicycles back. We were told by someone at a hostel that you can put your bike on the ordinary coaches, I think in the luggage compartment. We were seriously considering this because we were worried about fighting a strong head wind over the Harris hills back to Tarbert. In the end, the wind was no problem, but we could have struggled to average 8 mph if it had been against us.

South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist are flat. Barra is fairly hilly, at least on the east side. Lewis is fairly flat. Harris is very hilly. There is an enormous hill leaving Tarbert north towards Lewis. It's not just long and steep, but there can be a stiff cross wind. We had to walk up much of that. Once you're past that hill, it is not too bad.

Most people think the sands on West Harris are worth a visit. When it's sunny, the sea is turquoise and the beach is golden. The road from these beaches on the north side of South Harris is very hilly.

Keep an eye out for cafes because there are not many of them and are often not very well advertised.

The roads are in surprisingly good condition, but they are often single lane. There are lots of passing places, but it gets a PITA stopping for oncoming traffic all the time, which they tend to expect you to do, notwithstanding that they seem wide enough for a car to pass a cyclist.

The hostel in Berneray is a nice place to wait if you get stuck waiting for the ferry on a Sunday when everywhere is shut.

The Co-ops stay open late, at least in Castlebay, but some other food shops tend to close about 5pm.

I think we're planning on heading up the west route the entire journey unless someone has reason to suggest otherwise.

Weather is so far looking questionable. But I suppose to expect anything less is foolish. We're all pretty hardy riders and at the moment can't imagine a headwind getting the best of us... We'll see!

 

[OldShep]

I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd

 

[mythste]

I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd

General research suggests you won’t find a shop every day on that distance. But I’ll report back!

 

[Fab Foodie]

I think we're planning on heading up the west route the entire journey unless someone has reason to suggest otherwise.

Weather is so far looking questionable. But I suppose to expect anything less is foolish. We're all pretty hardy riders and at the moment can't imagine a headwind getting the best of us... We'll see!

West route is sensible.
The Eastern route on Harris is lumpy and avoid the scenic Gold Road unless you like climbing.
Beaches on Bernaray are fab and the old hostel is one of my favourite places.

Agree with Yellow Fang about the road out of Tarbet, On the Brommie I never walked (smug) but came close. The wind and rain can howl through the pass like you cannot believe. But worth the effort.

I will get @Hill Wimp to remind me of cafes etc. That are worth visiting.

 

[Fab Foodie]

I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd

Shops, Petrol stations, pubs hotels and Cafes are very few and far between. Best reseach what’s available en-route or as I soon learned, carry 2 days rations just in case.

 

[HelenD123]

Is drinking water easy to come by? I'm heading to the Hebrides in a couple of weeks too and planning to camp as much as possible. I'm wondering whether to get one of those bottles with a built in water filter for emergencies.

 

[Crackle]

Is drinking water easy to come by? I'm heading to the Hebrides in a couple of weeks too and planning to camp as much as possible. I'm wondering whether to get one of those bottles with a built in water filter for emergencies.

It's the Hebrides; just tilt your head back and open your mouth.

 

[HelenD123]

It's the Hebrides; just tilt your head back and open your mouth.

Nooo! It's going to sunny, dry and not windy surely

 

[iandg]

I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd

I did the Heb Way in 16 hours last year (cycling Stornoway to Castlebay the day before) The shops I remember/used en-route Castlebay Co-op, Creagorry co-op, Balivanich mini-market, Leverburgh mini-market, shops in Tarbert, one at the Airdashaig petrol station, Cameron Terrace filling station at Leurbost has a shop and so does Barvas filling station. There are a few on the road from Barvas to Ness too, Cross stores a small diversion off the route being the biggest.

Engebrets filling station does take away food, has a mini market and is open on Sunday (10am-4pm) too.

Other shops I've used as 'controls' for DIY audax rides are South Lochs (Ravenspoint), and on the Uig (Timsgarry)

https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/visitor-info/facilities/supermarkets-and-community-shops

 

[iandg]

Is drinking water easy to come by? I'm heading to the Hebrides in a couple of weeks too and planning to camp as much as possible. I'm wondering whether to get one of those bottles with a built in water filter for emergencies.

Taps at the ferry terminals, toilets and at petrol stations. There's one in Tarbert in the wall of the toilet block behind the cashpoint machine and one in the wall at the Callanish visitor centre (on the left as you approach opposite the shop entrance).

Cafes etc will always fill your bottles

 

[Fab Foodie]

From @Hill Wimp: food and drink.

Croft 36 Northton Harris
Temple cafe Northton Harris
Talanamara neisabost Harris
North Harbour bistro scalpay Harris
Taigh chearsabhagh lochmaddy
Stepping stones balivanich. Benbecula
Grimsay community cente scotvein Grimsay
Cafe at Kallin Harbour Grimsay - Recommended!!
General store at Eriskay (plus 2 pubs)
Polo char inn Eriskay
Bernaray shop and bistro
Claddach kirkibost centre cafe
Westford inn north Uist
Lochboisdale hotel
The anchorage restaurant leverburgh
McClennans supermarket ballivianch benbecula
Coop at Sollas
Coop creagorry s. Uist/benbecula
Coop Dallibirg s uist

Excuse typing, chopped top of main texting finger!!

Hope that helps :-)

 

[iandg]

From @Hill Wimp: food and drink.

Croft 36 Northton Harris
Temple cafe Northton Harris
Talanamara neisabost Harris
North Harbour bistro scalpay Harris
Taigh chearsabhagh lochmaddy
Stepping stones balivanich. Benbecula
Grimsay community cente scotvein Grimsay
Cafe at Kallin Harbour Grimsay - Recommended!!
General store at Eriskay (plus 2 pubs)
Polo char inn Eriskay
Bernaray shop and bistro
Claddach kirkibost centre cafe
Westford inn north Uist
Lochboisdale hotel
The anchorage restaurant leverburgh
McClennans supermarket ballivianch benbecula
Coop at Sollas
Coop creagorry s. Uist/benbecula
Coop Dallibirg s uist

Excuse typing, chopped top of main texting finger!!

Hope that helps :-)

Temple Cafe open Sunday too (if the new owners maintain the tradition)