Passable lock?

[dim]

gold rated and under £30

 

[Wobblers]

It doesn't look it - the D-lock is only 13mm thick and the cable is only 10mm, plus if they beat the D then the cable comes free. You can do better for the money at the moment.

The Kyrptonite Mini Evo's actually listed on lfgss as one of the best secondary locks - that is, a lock which would serve as a good backup to your main beefy (and heavy!) lock. Its main advantage is its small size, which makes the usual car jack attack awkward or impossible. As long as the inside of the d-lock's filled with bike (through the seat stays and rear wheel usually occupies most space) there's little room to fit a car jack.

The main effect is deterrence: a well locked bike will shift the thief's attention to less well protected bikes. The Mini Evo will probably work quite well for a £50 bike. I used to leave my bike all day at Birmingham New Street with a Krytonite New York 3000 through the rear triangle - and indeed occasionally for a few days. I never had any problems, but there was one evening when I came back to find some poor sod talking to a PSCC when he returned to his bike only to find a cut cable lock...

 

[Blue Hills]

I've got one of these for everyday use:
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Abus-Ultra-410-Mini-D-Lock_87447.htm?sku=297206
Sold Secure Silver, small, solidly built and a sensible weight for carrying about - currently on offer at £19.99 (was £29.99).

Looks interesting - what can you get it round - some of those smaller locks have issues getting them round a bit of bike and even the slimmest street furniture.

 

[UserError]

Sorry to hear that. Can't help asking - was it obviously "knackered" - any ideas as to why they went for it? How was it locked? Overnight?

Thanks. Gives me an opportunity to get a better bike for me & beater for his station ride. Mildly annoyed that not that long ago I put on a new saddle & replaced all the cables with SS Jagwires, but otherwise it looked bad - rusty handlebar, no paint left of the front shock forks, iffy homemade (milk container) front crud catcher. Only locked with his "cycling to school" combination lock - clearly now outgrown. Only in daytime between 8-4.

 

[UserError]

Lock it up , let the tyres down and take the seat with you .......

We're talking about a teenager here, who can barely make it to teh station in time, let alone dismantle his bike LOL.

 

[UserError]

It doesn't look it - the D-lock is only 13mm thick and the cable is only 10mm, plus if they beat the D then the cable comes free. You can do better for the money at the moment.

Maybe padlock the cable?

 

[UserError]

Bike will be replaced with something seriously unattractive. I think I'm looking to stop the "can't be bothered to walk home" sort but have to confess, am not fully up to speed with low-life mentality or the black market in bikes.

I need to look at the supports at the station to see what size D lock needed.

 

[UserError]

14mm D lock and 12mm braid-of-braids alarmed cable lock to stop silly front wheel thefts. Basically, stuff that's just below those listed on https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/144109/ - anything less and you probably may as well be using a cafe lock, especially in most stations (where thieves can be fairly confident of working unmolested between trains)... but actually you might as well go for the Askalitt / Clas Ohlson 17mm D lock on their list at that price. I may get one if they're still there next time I'm passing

Reviews on the Asaklitt are mixed - a lot of people having difficulty with them locking shut. All very well your bike still being at the station when you get back because no-one on earth can unlock it... Maybe the conditions in Sweden make this happen? I've emailed Ohlson for their comments.
I might investigate a ghetto alarm too as we've got one lying around. Not difficult to hack a personal alarm to include a wire loop.

 

[mjr]

Reviews on the Asaklitt are mixed - a lot of people having difficulty with them locking shut. All very well your bike still being at the station when you get back because no-one on earth can unlock it...

You'll find that with reviews of quite a few locks, including the (no longer on sale) D lock I've been using for a few years and my last-but-one cable lock. I suspect it's the usual problem that the lock is supplied under-lubricated (to reduce how much it messes up the shops) and people rarely lubricate them properly - mostly just spraying a light penetrating oil in, once in a blue moon.

 

[NorthernDave]

Looks interesting - what can you get it round - some of those smaller locks have issues getting them round a bit of bike and even the slimmest street furniture.

Fits fine round the frame and a Sheffield stand on the road bikes, but isn't quite deep enough to go through the back wheel as well without just putting tension on the spokes.
Has the advantage that it stands out due to the colour so can't be missed (and it matches the bike!)
Not tried it on the hybrid yet, but think it would be the same.

 

[Blue Hills]

You'll find that with reviews of quite a few locks, including the (no longer on sale) D lock I've been using for a few years and my last-but-one cable lock. I suspect it's the usual problem that the lock is supplied under-lubricated (to reduce how much it messes up the shops) and people rarely lubricate them properly - mostly just spraying a light penetrating oil in, once in a blue moon.

What is actually the recommended lube regime for locks? I have several that I have had for 15 to 20 years and never lubed any of them - may well have imagined it but I have vague memories of once having a lock which it said NOT to lube. Have never had any problems with any of my locks.

 

[Blue Hills]

Thanks. Gives me an opportunity to get a better bike for me & beater for his station ride. Mildly annoyed that not that long ago I put on a new saddle & replaced all the cables with SS Jagwires, but otherwise it looked bad - rusty handlebar, no paint left of the front shock forks, iffy homemade (milk container) front crud catcher. Only locked with his "cycling to school" combination lock - clearly now outgrown. Only in daytime between 8-4.

Ta for the reply. From that description I would have thought any passable decent D lock would have meant it was safe.

 

[mjr]

What is actually the recommended lube regime for locks? I have several that I have had for 15 to 20 years and never lubed any of them - may well have imagined it but I have vague memories of once having a lock which it said NOT to lube. Have never had any problems with any of my locks.

Usually it says on the packaging. The Clas Ohlson link has the poster from LFGSS recommending lithium grease on it. That or graphite grease are reasonable guesses if you don't know, with WD40 and then a regrease if the lock action ever starts to feel gritty.

I think I've had locks that say not to use particular lubricants, but I've not seen one say not to lubricate at all... but maker's instructions beat all other advice. I get much less lock trouble now I live further away from a silty coast, rather than within 1km of a salty one.

 

[andrew_s]

I use a basic self-coiling cable with a loop at each end, and a padlock with a longish shackle. The cable does frame/wheel(s) and bike stand/lamp post as normal, but the padlock goes round chain & large chainring as well as the cable ends. The bike is unrideable until you get the padlock off, and excessive force is likely to bend the chainring or damage the chain, also making the bike unrideable.
It's enough to make anyone wanting a ride pick a different bike.

 

[Drago]

The bikes value is neither here nor there. You're either happy to have it stolen, or you're not. Buy the best lock you can regardless of the bikes value.