Passable lock?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

NorthernDave

Never used Über Member
15mm spanner.

Are you calling @NorthernDave names, or pointing out that someone could nick the back wheel with that tool?

It's a QR wheel, so they wouldn't need a spanner. I've got a new cable lock for such events now (or if I'm going somewhere dodgy / leaving the bike for any length of time I've got the other D lock.

I think he's pointing out that you can unbolt the stands with a spanner. Never use those ones, only those embedded into concrete.

Thanks both, never noticed this here which is a worry! Although (for what it's worth) the bike stands are right next to the security office where there are usually at least two security guards on duty, it's covered by CCTV, is next to where the bus drivers stand having a crafty ciggie between journeys and I'm never gone for more than 5 minutes ;)
 

r04DiE

300km a week through London on a road bike.
Yep, seen favourable feedback on that myself, from multiple sites. I bought one, feels very sturdy.
 

classic33

Leg End Member
I think he's pointing out that you can unbolt the stands with a spanner. Never use those ones, only those embedded into concrete.
It's a QR wheel, so they wouldn't need a spanner. I've got a new cable lock for such events now (or if I'm going somewhere dodgy / leaving the bike for any length of time I've got the other D lock.



Thanks both, never noticed this here which is a worry! Although (for what it's worth) the bike stands are right next to the security office where there are usually at least two security guards on duty, it's covered by CCTV, is next to where the bus drivers stand having a crafty ciggie between journeys and I'm never gone for more than 5 minutes ;)
Usually a 17mm for the rear wheel anyway, but noticed the quick release.
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
I think he's pointing out that you can unbolt the stands with a spanner. Never use those ones, only those embedded into concrete.
They look concreted-in to me. The concrete is just a darker colour to the paving stones.

Usually a 17mm for the rear wheel anyway, but noticed the quick release.
Isn't on any of my non-QR wheels. 15mm both.
 

froze

Über Member
I'm a little late to this post, but I think the cost of the lock should be relative to the value of the bike it will be locking. That OnGuard lock is fine for a bike that is around $300 in value, but I wouldn't use it on a bike worth $3,000, I would base the price of a lock on roughly 10% of the value of the bike you'll be using it on. Now of course if you live in an extremely low crime area then a low costing lock would be adequate for any priced bike, but in an average crime area and above you need to rethink about how much you should spend on a lock.
 

e-rider

crappy member
Location
South West
Some toe rag has stolen my knackered Trek 4300 from the station. Financial loss is not great, but it's a pain.

When I get a manky replacement bike (sub £50), what kind of lock would deter the sort who just wants a ride home?
Many thanks
if you leave it at a station - it will get stolen sooner or later no matter what
 

e-rider

crappy member
Location
South West
I'm a little late to this post, but I think the cost of the lock should be relative to the value of the bike it will be locking. That OnGuard lock is fine for a bike that is around $300 in value, but I wouldn't use it on a bike worth $3,000, I would base the price of a lock on roughly 10% of the value of the bike you'll be using it on. Now of course if you live in an extremely low crime area then a low costing lock would be adequate for any priced bike, but in an average crime area and above you need to rethink about how much you should spend on a lock.

"I think the cost of the lock should be relative to the value of the bike it will be locking" WRONG - a cheap lock will mean your bike gets stolen - simple! Even if the bike only cost 200, most people still wouldn't want it getting stolen so you ALWAYS need to use a good quality lock which means $$$
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
So you don't think factors like where you lock your bike, what you lock it to and how long you leave it for have any bearing - it's inevitably going to get stolen, regardless?
None of those are directly related to the cost of the bike either, to be fair!
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
I use a Masterlock Street Fortum (Gold Sold Secure rating). About £30. It has mixed reviews. I also have the bikes on my household contents insurance, at very little extra cost. If they want your bike, they'll get it. Try a 1mm thick steel cutting blade in a cordless angle grinder. Nothing has a chance.
 

e-rider

crappy member
Location
South West
So you don't think factors like where you lock your bike, what you lock it to and how long you leave it for have any bearing - it's inevitably going to get stolen, regardless?
if you use a cheap lock it will get stolen sooner or later. Obviously, the points you mention will change the probablity somewhat but still, a cheap lock can be breached in less than 5 seconds with simple small tools, so at some point your bike will be gone. Using a high quality lock means only well prepared and determined scumbags will be able to take your bike
 

Brains

Legendary Member
Location
Greenwich
Motorbike locks are good.
Waaaaay to heavy to lug around, but if you leave the bike in the same place every day, then your bike is locked up better than anyone else's.
They cost much the same as a decent bike lock but tend to be made of thicker steel.

Other solution as others have pointed out is get a Brompton.

As the man that sold me my Brompton said, as I started looking at locks, was "Don't bother, you never lock up a Brompton"
(and if you did, with the best lock on the market, it would still be gone in under 60 seconds.)
 

Similar threads

Top Bottom