Patch or replace inner tube emergency

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froze

Über Member
If you're riding a bike further than you want to walk back home then you should carry a spare tube, patches, tire levers, alcohol cleaning pads, and of course a pump.

First off let's discuss air delivery systems. I saw that some recommended CO2, that's fine, it's really only necessary though if you're racing and are responsible to fix your own tires, but there are cons to CO2. CO2 will naturally leak out of your tube at about 50% per day, this means when you get home you have to deflate your tire and refill with pump air; I don't know about you but I don't like doing work twice, so I carry a pump. Also CO2 air is not free, you have to buy it and make sure you have at least 2 carts in you saddlebag, but what happens on an odd day if you have more flats than carts? Now you're back to walking. Also you have to throw away spent carts, I think a lot of riders just toss them on the side of the road because that's where I see a lot of them, but you should be carrying those carts back home and throwing them properly. There is another option and that's called a hybrid pump, this is a pump that combines a CO2 inflator with a pump, if I was going to CO2 that is what I would get, and probably the best one on the market is the Lezyne Pressure Drive CFH. Again though I prefer not to pay for air or have to do my work twice so a pump is the only way I'll go, and I think the Lezyne Road Drive (large) is the best of the ones that will actually reach 100 psi which there are only 2 or 3,maybe 4 tops that will! Note I put the word "large" in quotations and that's because Lezyne makes it 3 sizes, I seriously doubt the smaller 2 sizes will get to 100.

Tire levers; there are a lot on the market, just choose two but be careful not to get cheap ones because they can break while installing a tire. I really like the Soma Steel Core levers, but again there are plenty.

Alcohol pads are for cleaning the tube after you have buffed the tube, this is so the patch will stick better.

Patches again are a personal thing, I've had great success with glueless patches for over 20 years but others have not, I like the fact I don't have to deal with glue or finding a dry glue tube when trying to fix a flat. Anyway if you want to know how to use glueless patches let me know.

Another personal thing, in this I'm backwards from most people but I prefer to patch a tube when I have a flat rather than replace the tube first, because I can usually find the offending hole fast and repair it faster than replacing the tube. I do this by leaving the wheel on the bike, then take off about 1/2 of the bead of one side with the penetration point in the center of the half, then pull about a 1/3rd of the tube out with the penetration point in the center. Check the inside of the tire for any object stuck in the tire, patch the tube and re-stuff and mount the tire.
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
Tire levers; there are a lot on the market, just choose two but be careful not to get cheap ones because they can break while installing a tire. I really like the Soma Steel Core levers, but again there are plenty.
Bontrager red levers also have metal cores with plastic coating and are more widely available in the UK, including in the Evans Cycles chain and Trek concept stores. I do slightly prefer having three, but my beloved Revolution levers have changed design and I think no longer have metal cores.

Alcohol pads are for cleaning the tube after you have buffed the tube, this is so the patch will stick better.
If you shove them back in the packet after that, they're also good for cleaning your hands. If you're using glued patches, clean the tube and then buff it because AIUI the "glue" sort of melts the scuffed rubber in a chemical reaction, so having rubber dust around is actually helpful.

Patches again are a personal thing, I've had great success with glueless patches for over 20 years but others have not, I like the fact I don't have to deal with glue or finding a dry glue tube when trying to fix a flat. Anyway if you want to know how to use glueless patches let me know.
I like them in a rush: Park Tool or the Evans fwe imitations seem pretty good. If you're using glue for that as-good-as-a-new-tube result, expel the air before putting the lid back on securely and it shouldn't dry out.
 
I prefer to do the patching at home, at my leisure, in good light. I carry 1tube and a patch kit, with an extra tube at work and a few spares at home. Patched tubes become my spares.
On tour I carry 2 tubes.
 

The Essex Spurs

Well-Known Member
Location
Witham Esssex
Don't mess ...a new innertube every time.Check the tyre in case foreign objects are still in it first though!!!!
Failing that get a decent bike rack and carry your car as it will make you more comfortable with the not knowing!
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
Don't mess ...a new innertube every time.
Putting a new inner tube in is usually messing - messing with the brakes, messing with the gears, messing with the chain, even messing with bits of the tyre and tube which you don't need to touch. Find the puncture (put a bit of air in and it's usually obvious where is hissing, else dribble water on the tyre as you spin it and look for the bubbles), remove the cause if it's still there (a flat-headed screwdriver is often good for levering it out) and unless it's right by the valve, just pop that bit of tyre off the rim one side, roll that bit of tube out, find the hole, patch it, replace, pump and ride away!
 

The Essex Spurs

Well-Known Member
Location
Witham Esssex
Well it's open to question but on normal roads you wouldn't expect too many punctures on the same trip so a new innertube is more for cnvenience. Ten minutes later away on your travels.
A question for everyone commenting on this thread...Is your spelling of innertube underlined????

How do you turn this gooddam american thing off bro????
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
Well it's open to question but on normal roads you wouldn't expect too many punctures on the same trip so a new innertube is more for cnvenience. Ten minutes later away on your travels.
It ain't convenient to futz with all those bits of the bike and that's five minutes too long.

A question for everyone commenting on this thread...Is your spelling of innertube underlined????
No, because it has a space in between the two words ;)
 

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
Well it's open to question but on normal roads you wouldn't expect too many punctures on the same trip so a new innertube is more for cnvenience. Ten minutes later away on your travels.
A question for everyone commenting on this thread...Is your spelling of innertube underlined????

How do you turn this gooddam american thing off bro????

I think it is the puncturation setting on your PC.
 
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TheDoctor

Europe Endless
Moderator
Location
The TerrorVortex
Road morph pump. Spare tube, levers and puncture kit / glueless patches. Even if you don't need them, someone else might, and it's always nice handing over some patches and getting an unexpected beer in return :cheers:
 

The Essex Spurs

Well-Known Member
Location
Witham Esssex
Road morph pump. Spare tube, levers and puncture kit / glueless patches. Even if you don't need them, someone else might, and it's always nice handing over some patches and getting an unexpected beer in return :cheers:
That's a fair enough point to make.I am getting the bikes ready today or tomorrow so will take both with me
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
Checking the tyre carefully and finding/removing the cause of the puncture is important and usually takes longer than changing the actual inner tube.
Very true. On one occasion a fellow club member got through 3 new tubes - his 2 and one of mine. He'd inspected the tyre pretty carefully and found nothing, but after the 3rd deflation - each tube lasted 2 miles or so - we stopped and removed the tyre completely and turned it inside out. Eventually after much flexing of the tyre we foud a minute glass shard that obviously only pierced the tube when the tyre flexed under load. As it was so small and embedded in the tyre thickness it was difficult to remove, however the pointed tweezers I carry eventually did the job.
I had some Park Tool patches and we repaired one of the tubes and we were on our way.
 
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froze

Über Member
Bontrager red levers also have metal cores with plastic coating and are more widely available in the UK, including in the Evans Cycles chain and Trek concept stores. I do slightly prefer having three, but my beloved Revolution levers have changed design and I think no longer have metal cores.


If you shove them back in the packet after that, they're also good for cleaning your hands. If you're using glued patches, clean the tube and then buff it because AIUI the "glue" sort of melts the scuffed rubber in a chemical reaction, so having rubber dust around is actually helpful.


I like them in a rush: Park Tool or the Evans fwe imitations seem pretty good. If you're using glue for that as-good-as-a-new-tube result, expel the air before putting the lid back on securely and it shouldn't dry out.

I don't like the all plastic ones, I've had some that broke and known people who broke theirs, mine usually broke because they got cold and just snapped.

I've never heard of the glue dust thing making the glue to work better, but be it as it is, I've never had either a glue on a glueless patch fail when I've use alcohol. However if you leave the rubber dust on you also leave some of the sand from the buffing on the tube too which is not good for gluing. However glue is almost idiot proof, so even if you made an error in your tube preparation the glue will usually "hide" it.

Even after I have secured a glue tube securely the tube is usually dry in about a year's time. Glue isn't expensive but why bother with glue at all when my success with glueless has been the same as glue on patches?

I prefer not to clean my hands with alcohol, I instead carry packets of hand cleaner and use those, they work better without drying out my hands.
 
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