Probably The Best Bike Light In The World?

[G2EWS]

Bought mine over the weekend and awaiting it's arrival!

Chris

 

[hoopdriver]

Why can we not have the equivalent of a car/motorcycle headlight?
Something as bright as one above for a high beam, with the trapezoidal shape of a B&M and a button under the thumb for a high/low function.
Or am I asking too much?

A Lupine Betty comes pretty close to that. They cost a lot though. I've got one and I think it was worth every cent; a lovely light.

 

[G2EWS]

Mine arrived today, but not had chance to even open the parcel!

Chris

 

[G2EWS]

Quickly unwrapped it and took outside last night!

Wow that is some light!

Just need a dark ride to try it out now.

Chris

 

[Rob3rt]

Let you off... Well it arrived today. I take your point about the connections and vents. The light itself seems pretty decent though. Will have to see how it goes longer term with the weather

Torchy told me it would be fine, but it deffo looks a bit suspect. However it doesnt take much to improve the weather proofing considerably. Tape the "vents" and seal around where the lens screws on with electrical tape (if black you can barely notice) and then take off the mount (single screw) push vaseline around where the cables go in, a nice big glob of it, then replace the mount, clean away any that gets squeezed out and it should be good to go!

This should hopefully be fine, just check it doesn't get too hot with the heatsink taped as these high power LED's can kick off some heat. Cold winter should prevent overheating and it is for sure okay for journeys of a few mile, tested it over 4 mile.

 

[G2EWS]

The vents are exactly that, there does not appear to be any holes going inside the body of the light.

Electrically, if you push the leads in all the way they seal. If the seal is not 100% there is little chance of water getting in and if it does it needs to be right at the end to cause a problem.

The battery pack may get wet, but I am sure this is just about a little maintenance after a wet ride.

But time and use will tell.

Regards

Chris

 

[Rob3rt]

The cable that is exposed on the £40 light is under the mount and it is quite open for water to ingress, it is a 4-5mm hole (maybe more, going on memory here) with the 2 inner cores going through it, the issue is not the cable connection to the battery, although this is also not a sealed connector either (the more expinsive versions have a locking sealed connector which is what I am guessing your light has G2EWS), but can be taped if concerned.

As for the vents, on the £40 light, the outer has slots machined into it, and the inner body is a separate piece so again there could be water ingress here especially since some of these slots are on the top/bottom where water will collect and sit depending on the orientation of the mounting.

Rain gets everywhere, really, the smallest hole and it will be in! I had to empty my rims the other week, it must have got in around the valve. Working with water and electronics, I have found vaseline to be a great way to seal things, it keeps the water out, is cheap, and can easily be cleaned off, as opposed to silicon or likewise.

As for the battery pack, put it in a freezer bag and tape the point you pass the cable out and then put it back inside the little mounting pack.

 

[G2EWS]

Hi Rob,

Sorry, I thought you were talking about the light I originally posted about and received yesterday.

As mentioned there is no holes in the vents and everything else is very well sealed.

Like the idea of the freezer bag but with one proviso, these batteries are prone to explode if they don't vent properly. Talk to radio control model aircraft folks. I have seen some serious damage caused by them going up!

Regards

Chris

 

[Rob3rt]

The batteries are shrink wrapped anyway.

 

[Davidc]

For offroad use very bright is good.

For road use lighting needs to be good enough to see without dazzling other users.

I totally disagree with his conclusions, and will this year be continuing with my combination of the excellent Hope Vision 1, never higher than its level 3, 4 is too bright for the road, and the also excellent B&M CYO 60. The fastest I ever go is 40mph coming down the roads off the Blackdowns and they are more than adequate for that.

These aren't as cheap as some lights, but they are weather and abuse proof high reliability lights that do the job very well.

His comments about flashing front lights leave me cold. After dark I use steady lighting at the front. That's in town and in the pitch dark of the countryside. I'm convinced, including from experience, that the Germans have got it right about flashing lights. What you all choose to do is up to you! Apart from anything else I find having a flashing light on the front annoys me after about 15 seconds.

 

[G2EWS]

The batteries are shrink wrapped anyway.

Hi Rob,

Yes they are, but you really must be very careful with these batteries, they are very scary. Hopefully technology will improve in the coming years. I just don't want to think of the damage that could be done with a pack going off strapped to the bar between your legs!! Ouch!

I should point out that I am an electronics engineer and supply and arrange install for the UK water industry. Whilst no expert by any means I do get involved in a number of different battery technologies.

Best regards

Chris

 

[fossyant]

These batteries tend to fail on charging. If you are getting a poor run time from a battery it's time to bin it. They don't get a balanced charge so over time can become un-balanced, and with a poor circuit board, can set on fire (not often like).

Main issue with the cheap batteries is water ingress to the protection circuit, if it get's compromised the circuit fails, and you end up with a dead battery or a bang on charging. If it's just shrink wrapped, I'd add extra tape to the ends of the battery to seal it.

Had magicshine batteries for 2 years now, one failed and died (not holding charge) over a winter, but the other two are fine, even with occasional use.

I've just ordered a cheap 3 x T6 single head unit lamp just like the OP refers to (but a cheap copy) for £36 delivered. The battery is likely to be crap, but I have spares. This will be used for fun on the MTB.

 

[tigger]

Torchy told me it would be fine, but it deffo looks a bit suspect. However it doesnt take much to improve the weather proofing considerably. Tape the "vents" and seal around where the lens screws on with electrical tape (if black you can barely notice) and then take off the mount (single screw) push vaseline around where the cables go in, a nice big glob of it, then replace the mount, clean away any that gets squeezed out and it should be good to go!

This should hopefully be fine, just check it doesn't get too hot with the heatsink taped as these high power LED's can kick off some heat. Cold winter should prevent overheating and it is for sure okay for journeys of a few mile, tested it over 4 mile.

Yeah I've done pretty much as you've suggested. I also contacted Torchy as you did, he thinks it will be fine and reminded me he offers a 12 month guarantee, so I'm happy enough.

I've used it twice now on 30 mile rides, a bit of road and plenty of old railway track (Monsal trail is my winter night training ride if you know it). I must say I'm delighted with the performance. The light is plenty bright enough with good spread and throw for this route. Its not too bright for the road either, at least I've not been flashed by disgruntled motorists which is a good sign I think.

Only thing I need to do is sort a mount out, the O rings just slip a little over bumpy sections - any suggestions here?

 

[fossyant]

As for slipping - you could use some gripper tape, or cheaply tape some fine grade emery/sand paper to the bars. I actually found a couple of loops of electrical tape round the bars (smooth surface) was enough for the light's rubber foot to grip !

 

[djb1971]

If the rubber foot on the bottom of the lamp is screwed on go onto CRC and search for the hope bracket. My magicshine is on one and its great.