Puncture advice needed

[Accy cyclist]

I have narrow racing tyres on my bike and i have recently been plagued by punctures. My last one was caused by the bit of the inside of the wheel where the spoke meets having a hole, unlike the other spokes,so i presume the puncture was caused by the tube stretching at the hole, because it popped three hours after my ride. My other bike has touring type thicker tyres on and i never(touch wood) puncture on it. I put 110 psi into the thin tyres, and 75 psi into the thicker ones, as recommended on the tyres. I don't want to give up on "racing" tyres but the constant/problem worry of puncturing is making me think of the slower, but safer option. Are the tyres advertised as "puncture proof" costing more, worth investing in for example?
I weigh 11.5 stone if that makes any difference.

 

[Steve H]

If the hole in the inner tube was on the side facing the wheel as opposed to facing the tyre, then it is probably not the tyre that is the problem. If like you say, it was caused by the inner tube rubbing on an exposed hole in the wheel which link to the spokes, then you need to adjust or replace the rim tape. Rim tape is a purpose made bit of tape that should cover all these holes. Only cost you a couple of quid.

No racing tyres are 100% puncture proof, but get them set up well and you can significantly reduce the number of visits from the puncture fairy.

 

[raindog]

+1 for what Steve said. Narrow, high pressure tyres need really good quality rim tape. I use the thick, all-in-one plastic ones.

Various makes available - these are Michelin.

 

[the_mikey]

Your local bike shop should have rim tape, I use 15 - 16mm tape on my rims.

 

[Boris Bajic]

You mention that the latest puncture hit the part of the tube acing the rim, rather than the road. Earlier replies have addressed that issue and are spot on.

You mention a plague of punctures and I'm guessing that some may have been on the 'road'side of the tube. If so, here is some thought:

1. 110psi should be fine if it's within the recommended pressures for the tyre, as should your weight.

2. If you are patching the holes and the patches peel off, look at your patching technique or buy different patches.

3. If you are patching and the tyres puncture in the same place without the patch peeling off, you may not have removed from the tyre carcass whatever sharp object it was that caused the puncture in the first place. When you get a puncture caused by a sharp object, you really need to rummage around inside the tyre and ensure that you've removed the naughty item that poked in to cause the hole.

4. Tyre life. I hate to admit it, but tyres do have a shelf life. It will vary, depending on use, age and several other variables, but once cracks appear on the outside of the tyre you are approaching replacement time. Glass shards and stones can lodge in those little cracks and work their way through.

5. Some tyres resist punctures better than others. This is an area of fraught debate and deep loyalty, but as in most matters it is my opinion that counts. I run several road bikes (family of five) and all have Conti Gatorskins on the wheels, most pumped to 110psi. Problems are extremely rare. If grit and shards are starting to poke through cracks in your tyres, think about replacing them.

6. Fitting. It may be that you're pinching the inner tube between rim and tyre while fitting. This can cause punctures or simply weaken the tube and make a later puncture more likely. If you are like me, you'll never learn to get it right every time. Persevere and you will start to get it right more than you get it wrong.

Do not give up on running narrow tyres at 100+psi. The whole experience is improved by reduced rolling resistance. I hope this helps.

 

[Globalti]

All good advice. Make sure the inside of the tyre is clean and free of any sharp spikes, run your fingers around several times. Clean the tube and then dust tube, tyre and rim with talc, which will lubricate everything as you refit it.

 

[Accy cyclist]

Thanks for the replies and the advice. I think that if i replace the rim tape and maybe the tyres then i should hopefully ease my problems. The rim tape may be the original one from dare i say it?... ten years ago.....and one of the tyres must be the same age, though it's not been on the bike all the time. The tyre isn't cracked or frayed but do the tyres not diminish in quality by age as well as being over used?
I don't deflate the tyres weekly to look for sharp objects, i will now do this.

Another question....If i deflated the tyres slightly after each ride when the bike wont be used for a while, would that help. Does the constant 110psi not stretch or affect the tube?

 

[Globalti]

No it doesn't.

I never deflate the tyres, I just inspect them carefully about once a month.

 

[akb]

Apart from the rim tape issue, do you let most of the air out of the tyres to check them over for flints and bits of glass every week or so?

Interesting comment that I have never thought of before. How do you go about checking your tyres with the method as mentioned?

 

[Scoosh]

^ ^ ^ ... and the superglue works more effectively when it can get into the crack/cut and be held closed while it sets.

The usual constraints about fingers and superglue apply

 

[Accy cyclist]

I've bought some decent rim tape and a good tyre, well at 38 quid each they should be. So let's see how i get on.