Re-Dishing a Wheel

[User]

 

[Tim Hall]

I reckon that's about it, or at least a good starting point.

 

[Venod]

Yes, that's the principle, in reality you have to keep checking lateral and radial runout while you do it.

 

[I like Skol]

I would probably do the loosen side 1st then do the tighten in the opposite direction. I can't explain why, but I expect that would give less chance of ending up with an egg, rather than going around twice in the same direction and possibly chasing a 'lump' to the end where you could end up with a high spot.

Of course I could be talking utter twaddle?

 

[I like Skol]

[QUOTE 5308216, member: 9609"]and if I wanted to move it 2mm, how far should I turn each spoke for the first round ?[/QUOTE]
There is no set amount of turn. It all depends on many variables such as current spoke tension, hub flange width, amount of pre-existing dish and the elasticity of the spokes. Half turn is probably as good a starting point as any.

 

[Cycleops]

You will need a tool to check the dish;

View: https://youtu.be/fFanE45PYjI


This illustrates the process;

View: https://youtu.be/N1C2dZnUvuM

 

[I like Skol]

You will need a tool to check the dish;

Yes & no. In practice it is achievable in the frame. a correctly dished wheel will sit in the frame with the rim spaced ok which ever way the wheel is placed. This means a rear wheel can be flipped around so the cassette is on the wrong side and if it is dished the right amount the rim will still be properly spaced between the rear stays. This is difficult to check with horizontal drop outs unless they have the threaded alignment screws set before you start.

 

[lazyfatgit]

don't loosen each spoke in turn. start at spoke 1, move along a couple, loosen, repeat til you get round the wheel then loosen spoke 2, move along a couple. repeat until all spokes on one side have been loosened. on the other side, tighten by the same amount you loosened in the same staggered pattern until all spoke on that side have been done.

 

[Venod]

[QUOTE 5308216, member: 9609"]does lateral mean a sideways wobble, and radial an off-centre type of bump ? never thought about the latter happening, but I guess no reason why not.[/QUOTE]

Yes that's right, radial runout is harder to correct than lateral, if your careful and consistent with your tightening and slackening the less problems you will have, should you end up with significant radial runout, start by tightening the spokes at the most eccentric position and tighten the spokes either side a lesser amount, all the time checking lateral runout as well.

Some rims are a pleasure to work with others a nightmare, but the satisfaction of getting a good true wheel outways the effort, a small amount of radial runout may not be noticable when a tyre is fitted, the higher the tyre pressure the more noticeable it will be, a small amount of lateral runout may also be acceptable with disc brakes.

I always aim for no lateral and no radial runout, but I wouldn't worry with a little runout.

 

[Ajax Bay]

don't loosen each spoke in turn. start at spoke 1, move along a couple, loosen, repeat til you get round the wheel then loosen spoke 2, move along a couple. repeat until all spokes on one side have been loosened. on the other side, tighten by the same amount you loosened in the same staggered pattern until all spoke on that side have been done.

I think that this is over-complicated and is rather prone to being cocked up, making the whole process more challenging.

 

[Velochris]

You will be tightening already quite high tensioned spokes (on one side). If you are not used to this you need to be aware of spoke twist.

This is when you turn the nipple but instead of progressing along the threads it simply twists the spokes.

It may appear tighter but as soon as you ride the bike you will hear a pinging noise as the spokes unwind.

When tightening a spoke place a piece of electric tape mid spoke. As you turn the nipple the tape will rotate as the spoke twists. Keep turning until the spoke stops twisting (ie the tape stops moving). Then turn half a turn or however much you want.

Finally back off (ie loosen the nipple) enough so the tape returns to the same position it was in when you started.

The process will ensure no spoke wind up and all spokes increased by a consistent amount.

 

[migrantwing]

Take note that you may get a little radial runout where the rim seam is. I had to true my Easton wheels after I popped and replaced a spoke (20 spoke wheel) and got them to near perfect, except for a tiny blip at the rim seam. Any more tension pulling that hop out would have ended up with too high a tension and/or broken spokes.

 

[Salty seadog]

[QUOTE 5311325, member: 9609"]This has been my initial findings, the spokes would rather twist than the nipple turning independently. It sort of suddenly pings and difficult to know how far it has turned (even with little flags stuck to the spokes)

Had a good play with an old rim today, it had a couple of wobbles in that I tried to sort out. Firstly having a purpose made jig is just wonderful, I have improved wheels on the bike before, but getting comfortable in front of a jig/stand makes all the difference.

many of the nipples were quite difficult to turn, took the rim tape off and used a screwdriver which helped a lot, completely undone many of them, and oiled them up. So much easier when they turn easily.

I took some advice from a video that suggested when you decide what spoke needs tightening, check all the others in that area to see if any are too tight or too slack by listening to the note they give when you pluck them. I was quite amazed, it didn't take that long and I had a fairly true wheel. I have never managed to improve a wheel that much before - having the jig is the trick, wish I had made one earlier. (oh, and I was squeezing them all together at times to get them to settle, done 25 mile on it the night and it still seems true)

I think when I come to re-dish the wheel I first may go round all the spokes one by one, loosen them off, oil and clean them and then retighten - hopefully this will make the job easier when I start it. I have a little confidence I should be able to do this now.[/QUOTE]

Riever, I've really enjoyed this thread and the jig is so simple I've had one go at truing a wheel whilst on the bike but I didn't have the patience at the time.

Anyway I just wanted to say Reading that post there are just so many smutty phrases it could be a two Ronnie's sketch.

 

[Salty seadog]

[QUOTE 5311344, member: 9609"]Yes, truing a wheel on the bike is just hopeless. The Jig was very quick and simple to make from bits of scrap and made the truing bit very enjoyable and surprisingly easy - I reckon it could get a bit addictive.

my goal is now to build a wheel, if re-dishing works I will give it a go.

the jig was also wonderful for setting the bearing, with one side locked I could just loosen the QR and make mico adjustments to the cone on the other side. very quickly got it how I like them with just the teeniest bit of play (measured it at 8 thou) when the QR is tightened.[/QUOTE]

I used a cable tie on the seat stay and cut it so it was about 1mm of the rim then worked to that You can get good results in told but I took it to the shop eventually. Will have another go.

 

[I like Skol]

ALL my wheels ever have been built in the frame/forks. I used to put some insulation tape across the stays for radial measurement and then a small tab of tape folded over and stuck to the 1st piece to sort lateral alignment. I now use a combination spanner, cable tied to stays and a cable tie on the shaft of that for lateral. Either way, the trueing is done more by ear than by eye. The rubbing sound as the rim touches is what tells me when to tighten and when to loosen