- Location
- Glasgow
Not thicko at all, a Brompton can never be a Bike Shaped Object 

Bicycle Shaped ObjectThicko here - what does “BSO” mean?
I think it shows just how much profit there is in a 'proper' bike.All this talk of £60 and £80 BSO makes you wonder how there can be any profit in them?
The other night at work I chanced upon a 26" "Dunlop" full-sus MTB abandoned against some gates I needed to drive through in the van, so I got out to shift it. First thing that hit me was the weight, and as a fan of old steel bikes I'm no snowflake who expects bikes to be so light they levitate by themselves. But this thing felt like it had had it's frame filled with lead, it was HEAVY - must have been well into the-40's pounds range. Not even a big frame size either.
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Squeezed front disc brake and lever hit bar with no brake action. Back brake barely worked. O/S pedal had disintegrated and was hanging loosely on spindle. Not a pristine example. Should have known what to expect, but no, I just had to have a ride on it didn't I? So I get on and set off down the road. After a hundred yards I'm beginning to realise it wasn't such a good idea; bounce, bounce, clank, wobble from back end, unpleasant bobbing motion from forks, and the thing felt like I was trying to ride it through treacle it was such hard work. Turned round ASAP and back to work. Did a quick appraisal of what bits would fit my old rigids and decided it was a spare parts donor, not a bike to ride. The gear bits on it aren't even budget Shimano, the rear mech is branded Dunlop and the front one just says "power" Saddle OK & wheels look to be useable quality items, once the discs were taken off and binned, as they will fit in a rim braked MTB frame. I've ridden plenty of cheap bikes, and outright junk bikes, but this BSO set a new low standard for me. I'm really trying to understand how anyone can actually BUY one of these things using actual money they've had to earn.It was there for the taking and even free gratis I didn't want it to ride on! My old skip-rescued Apollo is like a Rolls Royce compared to this Dunlop BSO junk.
Man, you got beaten up here didn't you?
I do, and started on a 16Kg Trax TFS.1 full suspension (if you can call it that) mountain bike and yes, Biggin Hill is a different story on a 9kg road bike
Cargo shorts are OK for a 30min blast around the woods, but you'll hurt yourself on a 3hr road ride. Appropriate bike wear for the ride is the mantra.
My buddy asked me the same question; surely Id get fitter heaving The Tank up and down the hill?
Well going uphill it is harder work, but you have to think about the whole ride, and the total rider+kit weight, and soon a few kilos here and there aren't such a big deal. Being heavier I come downhill a bit faster, but on the flat once you're rolling, it's really neither here nor there.
Then you have to understand exercise, particularly endurance fitness over strength and sprint speed. The short story is that you need to exercise in such a way that your heart is under a relatively low stress over a long period of time - usually referred to as Zone 2 training. Huffing and puffing red faced is Zone 5 and is of little use long term.
Now you could do either of these on any bike if you pick the right terrain and speed...so it should be clear to you now why he heavy bike doesn't make you fitter quicker.
The last part of the question is, why get the lighter bike? Well, the answer should be "Don't." BUT. If you feel like a nicer, better looking, better handling bike and/or with more durable components and reliable shifting and braking, that is set up for leisure rather than loaded down for commuting...then get one![]()
I didn't want to leave my Raleigh chained to railings so bought a cheap Apollo which I reasoned I wouldn't really care about if it got stolen..
Any cheap bike is ruined by adding 'suspension'.
There is a reason a Fox or Rock Shox decent fork is around £400 upwards. Rear air cans are about £250 upwards.
My favourite bike is my lovely old Nottingham Raleigh Royal, though after building it from a frame I got for £40 it has turned out to be rather expensive at approx £250 (not including my Brooks Cambium saddle).Likewise I like my old Raleighs as they're real ones made in Nottingham, and although they all cost me peanuts to buy, I still think they're better than any bike thief deserves to have!
My favourite bike is my lovely old Nottingham Raleigh Royal, though after building it from a frame I got for £40 it has turned out to be rather expensive at approx £250 (not including my Brooks Cambium saddle)..
Yes, I definitely agree. Though I say "rather expensive at approx £250", I really mean that in comparison to complete 2nd hand bikes. But it was one of a small handful of classic touring frames that I wanted (a Galaxy would have been just as desirable, yes), and I have it built to my spec with my choice of components - and I'm actually very happy with it for the price.I think building bikes up from frames tends to be the expensive route, since whoever stripped off all the mechanicals has extracted a lot of the value out of it, which you then have to reinstate piecemeal. My preference is to buy complete bikes secondhand, even if the intention is to make changes to spec.
However, put the cost in context; I would rate the Raleigh Royal roughly on a par with a Dawes Galaxy in quality and spec terms. If you look up old Dawes prices from the 70's and 80's and adjust for inflation, a 531ST Galaxy would be around £750 in today's money. So therefore, would a Royal roughly speaking. Think of it as having built a fine quality machine for around a third of the price of a brand new equivalent and the cost doesn't seem so bad.