As it stands, the derailleur and chain are sort of in line when looking from behind. If I unscrew the adjuster it pulls the derailleur over to the left? I think this makes the 2nd symptom above worse as it's already struggling to downshfit as the derailleur doesn't seem to pull outward enough to bring the chain down.
Rear derailleur ripped off
- Thread starter BrynCP
- Start date
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Broadside
Guru
- Location
- Fleet, Hants
If the chain has been twisted about enough it could have twisted the front mech cage out of alignment too. The rear mech on my wife's road bike recently dived in to the spokes, to sort it out fully I ended up replacing the rear mech (£15) front mech (£15), chain (£11).
Maybe it's a daft question, but do you need to replace all the cable when replacing the derailleur like for like, or can you use the cable that is still there?
I've already spent £20 on the rear hanger and a chain link, each derailleur is approx £30 I think (105 10 speed) and I would ask the LBS to do these as it begins to cost so much it's worth getting it done properly, and I reckon having to change cables means even more work, and bar tape etc? Don't get me wrong, it needs doing, just wondering on likely overall cost.
I am just hoping now the wobble in the back wheel is just out of true, and not a bent rim.
Leaway2
Lycrist
- Location
- Manchester (Sale)
No you don’t need to, unless you don’t have enough cable length because the crimps have been cut off to replace the derailleur.
Edit Also there would be no need to replace the outer, so no bar tape. Just need to thread a new inner in, if it the current cable is too short (providing they are in good condition of course).
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