Rear wheel moving over in dropout

[stoofer35]

Hi Guys

I ride a Van Nicholas Ventus Ti Roadbike and have suffered on a couple of occasions the rear wheel move in the rear drop out while under load? Causing rubbing on the frame. This has happened with two different rear wheels. The only way I have resolved this is by over tightening the QR lever which I don’t like doing? Any advice?

S

 

[alicat]

The QR lever is meant to be tight. It should leave an indentation in your hand.

The fact that it has happened with two different wheels implies that either the lever isn't tight enough - you are flipping it over not treating it like a wing nut, I hope - or there is a fault with the frame.

 

[Heltor Chasca]

Do you think your hub may have loosened? Best to sort out quickly before you damage the bearings and race if that’s the case.

Poetic for this time of the morning no?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Is it a high quality QR lever and have you tightened it properly. If the QR is not Shimano or Campagnolo, it is most likely, rubbish. Any open can QR should be turned into scrap metal and plastic.

If you search on this forum you'll find a PDF from Shimano that shows you how to tighten a QR. I have posted that brochure a couple of times in the last few years.

A photo could also help.

 

[rrarider]

Check that the skewer nuts have good sharp teeth on the contract face. They should look much like the feed dogs on a sewing machine. If the points are rounded too much, replace the nuts or whole skewers if necessary.

 

[raleighnut]

Try these,

 

[fossyant]

What yellow saddle says. Change for Shimano or Campagnolo. Shimano ones arent expensive and even the low end ones work. Its the first thing I do with wheels, just reuse the Shimano ones.

We had a CCer whose front wheel kept coming out of line due to disc brakes, I sent him some spares, and it was fine.

I may still have spares. What axel width do you have ?

 

[stoofer35]

What yellow saddle says. Change for Shimano or Campagnolo. Shimano ones arent expensive and even the low end ones work. Its the first thing I do with wheels, just reuse the Shimano ones.

We had a CCer whose front wheel kept coming out of line due to disc brakes, I sent him some spares, and it was fine.

I may still have spares. What axel width do you have ?

Standard? I think 135mm (they came with Prolite wheels)

S

 

[fossyant]

Just double check as standard road is 130, but disc may be 135.

What colour (black or silver).

 

[stoofer35]

Black

the skewer does protrude several threads?

S

 

[Ajax Bay]

I reckon you're using a (designed for )135mm QR in a 130mm OLD Van N road bike frame, which is why we can see 5 odd mm of thread protruding. This doesn't matter nor will affect tightened QR security.
But the Prolite QR skewers are "an exposed cam design involving a curved plastic washer pressing against the toothed washer which in turn grips the dropout. This demands greater force to achieve the same security as traditional, enclosed designs".
So as @Yellow Saddle and @fossyant say, get a Shimano QR - how about this:
Shimano-ultegra-wh6800-QR-skewer-rear-130mm
(note its internal cam ('enclosed') design)

 

[fossyant]

I will take a look this evening in the spares bin.

 

[fossyant]

I don't like the open cams myself. I had one on my front forks that would actually undo itself as you rode down the road. You could see it..

 

[ColinJ]

I knew a strong rider who repeatedly pulled her rear wheel over until she replaced her expensive Ti QR with a much cheaper Shimano/Campagnolo one. (It was definitely one or the other but it was a long time ago so I can't remember which.)

I have never had a problem with Shimano or Campagnolo QRs but I have with other types.

 

[stoofer35]

Thanks everyone! loads of options, Just off out to see what happens?

S