Removing Cranks

[Young Un]

I got a crank puller the other day so today I thought I would take my cranks off to give them a really good clean. I watched the bicycle tutor video on how to use the tool and grasped it well, so off I went to try and remove my cranks. I got to the part when it was time to screw in the inner thread put to actually pull the crank off the BB. But try as I might, no matter how hard you tried to screw in the tool the cranks would just not budge at all - Not even my dad could do it. We tried giving it a good old smack with a hammer but that did naff all. Is it possible for the cranks to be seized onto the crank (they haven't been on that long as I had a new BB not that long ago), or is it just that the LBS can put them on super tight, and I just can't get them off.

Hope this makes sense,
Steve

 

[byegad]

First I'd not take the cranks off for cleaning, they will come of and go back on but the idea of doing it for cleaning is, for me a step too far. On the other hand if I were changing the inner chainring of a triple then they right one must come off.

You have removed the bolts and tried the puller and it hasn't worked, have you tried a gentle tap on the inside of the crank? Use a wooden mallet so as not to mark the cranks, or worse.

If that doesn;t work try riding the bike round the block with the bolts out, that may well slacken the crank, you MUST stop the second one moves or you'll damage the fitting face. So don't go too far as you'll need to walk back!

It usually does take a fair bit of welly on the puller to move. Once you're ready to refit them use some grease to make the next removal less hassle.

 

[accountantpete]

Best bet is to gently heat up the cranks only (can you borrow an electric blowtorch or something similar) and then retry the crank removal tool whilst still hot.

 

[Gerry Attrick]

There are two diameters of spacer for different types of cranks. For square taper bottom brackets, use the 11.3mm diameter spacer, for splined bottom brackets you should use the 16.5mm version.

 

[Chrisz]

Also, check that you have removed the washer as well as the crank bolt! Sounds stupid but I did it once

If you're planning on removing the cranks on a regular basis you could consider going for external BB types - I changed mine today (Ultra-Torque fitting) including removing and refiting the pedals in about 3 min! (Just up-graded from Fulcrum R to Fulcrum RRS - lovely bit of kit )

 

[fossyant]

If having trouble..TBH get the PARK remover.....

I've use a bog standard remover for years, worked fine..... then...

Nearly damaged the thread on my MTB's chainset's bb.....just because the BB extractor was past it's best.....get the Park ones with the rotating head...does square taper and ISIS.....fantastic kit.......

 

[Gerry Attrick]

If having trouble..TBH get the PARK remover.....

I've use a bog standard remover for years, worked fine..... then...

Nearly damaged the thread on my MTB's chainset's bb.....just because the BB extractor was past it's best.....get the Park ones with the rotating head...does square taper and ISIS.....fantastic kit.......

+1 to that.

 

[OLDSHUNTER]

crank removal

1.MAKE SURE CRANK THREAD AND TOOL THREADS ARE CLEANED AND LIGHTLY OILED
2.MAKE SURE CRANK TOOL IS FULLY EXTRACTED [ AT FULL LENGH ITS LONGEST ]
3.DELICATELY HOLD TOOL AT KNURLED PART AND HOLD LEVEL FACING CRANK THREADS [ THIS IS THE DELICATE BIT ] TURNING TOOL INTO CRANK THREAD VERY LIGHTLY ENSURING TOOL IS HELD LEVEL AND TAKEN TO THREADS WITH EASE AND MOTION IS SMOOTH THEN PROCEED UNTIL HAND TIGHT AND FINALLY TURNING WITH FIXED SPANNER/WRENCH
ON BOLT OF CRANK BODY [ LIKELY TO BE THREE THREADS STILL VISABLE ALTHOUGH SHOULD BE FINE ] .
4.NOW TURN EXTRACTOR BODY HAND TIGHT CLOCKWISE UNTIL NO TURN
5.PLACE 8MM ALLEN KEY INTO END OF EXTRACTOR AND TURN CLOCKWISE WITH SOME FORCE INITIALLY [ IF NOT STRONG THEN TRY USING A TUBE OVER ALLEN KEY FOR EXTRA LEVERAGE. OLD SEAT POST ] ONCE INITIAL TURN YOU WILL NOTICE IT EASING AS YOU TURN AND THE CRANK WILL BE SLIDING TOWARDS YOU ,
6.ON FITTING THEN MAKE SURE CLEAN LIGHTLY OILED/GREASED BRACKET ENDS AND HOLD CRANK ONTO BRACKET WITH CHAIN SITTING ON TEETH SIDE WHILST TURNING EXTRACTOR WITH ALLEN KEY ANTICLOCKWISE,
7.TIGHTEN CRANK BOLTS CONSIDERBLY ALTHOUGH BE CAREFUL OF OVER TIGHTENING WITH SOCKET WRENCH
8.REMEMBER TO PUT DIRT COVERS BACK ON
9.AFTER A FEW MILES RECHECK CRANK BOLTS OR IF ANY NOISE FROM THERE ITS LIKELY LOOSE CRANK BOLTS....


GOOD LUCK DON'T DESPAIR TAKE YER TIME N U WILL GET THERE

 

[MajorMantra]

Also, check that you have removed the washer as well as the crank bolt! Sounds stupid but I did it once

+1. Lesson learned on that one.

I have the (very nice) Park tool but recently it proved insufficient to remove the cranks from my Genesis as I simply didn't have enough leverage. I went to the local bike charity and used their extractor combined with a ruddy great spanner and they came off. Could you maybe put a piece of tubing over the handle of your extractor Young Un?

Matthew

 

[Globalti]

You need about a foot of leverage and a good hard push with the bike well supported. They are tight.