Road bike uncomfortable

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D_97_goodtimes

Senior Member
Location
Here and there
All of the above is good advice. Unless I missed it I didn’t see any comments regarding ‘core strength and general fitness training’. Perhaps some Yoga or simple stretching exercises before, during and after a ride might help.

Bike fit seems a must but you could go for a test ride and take a set of Allen keys with you. Adjust everything including the cleats.

Give it a month then try and swap the bike.

It’s easy to solve problems that are not your own.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
All of the above is good advice. Unless I missed it I didn’t see any comments regarding ‘core strength and general fitness training’. Perhaps some Yoga or simple stretching exercises before, during and after a ride might help.
Ahem see post 2 :whistle:
 
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RoadRider400

Some bloke that likes cycling alone
I agree that the seat seems a little low. It might also be worth doing some back and shoulder mobility work if you are lacking in this area.
 
OP
OP
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Martinsnos

Senior Member
At 5’10” I’d have bought that size over the next size up too. I think we've to bear in mind in every picture you’re leaning against a shed to support your self. It’s only an approximation of your riding position.
I wonder how much set back you’ve left in your saddle adjustment? Are your arms straight because you’re holding yourself up instead of balancing your body in that position.
I raised my saddle, it has made a huge difference thank you (I actually enjoyed the ride!!!).-
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Most cyclists I see seem to have the saddle too low. It’s only sports cyclists that seem to have their bike set up properly
 
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postman

Legendary Member
Location
,Leeds
Did someone suggest raising the saddle.
593545
 

Wooger

Well-Known Member
So annoying.
I’m 5’10” so I went for the medium - typical!!!

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-endurance-725-disc-green-shimano-tiagra/

Ribble have both got sizes a bit smaller than the average in the industry, and are selling a bike called "endurance" that's actually got a pretty aggressive geometry - your one only has a cm or so more stack than their pro race version.

Terrible marketing on their part.

The moral of the story is to always consult the geometry charts for stack & reach at the minimum, and perhaps use a site like http://geometrygeeks.bike to compare between familiar and new frames.
 

Paul_Smith SRCC

www.plsmith.co.uk
Location
Surrey UK
At 5ft 10" looking at that geometry and your pictures of you on it, yes you're at the upper end of what Ribble list as a relevant choice for their 'M' and the lower end of 'L'. But; 'M' and 'L' can often not tell the whole story, you need to look at the geometry in greater detail and when you do I'd wager you'd be able to achieve a suitable 'bike fit' on either size.

Something I referenced in a recent thread is that one thing I'd check on a drop bar bike of this type with a standard seat tube angle to match (normally around 73 degrees for a bike in the OP size) is to make sure the saddle is not set forward on the rails, if someone is struggling with the reach I often see that they move the saddle forward to reduce the reach, although this may seem logical in effect it tips the rider forward increasing weight on their hands and arms, it can feel a bit like you are doing 'a plank' on your bike, although the reach is reduced it often results in less comfort; which the rider will describe in just the same way the OP has. You will often see this very topic discussed as 'Saddle setback', 'Kops' (and the myth of Kops) or 'BMR (Body mass representation)'; there are quite a few useful online examples of how to set up your position, I have attached just one example that you may find useful. Note if one area of the 'fit' is wrong it can throw aspects of the set up out as well.

The Ribble is listed as an 'endurance' bike; just how much a designer dials back a frame/bike fit from a focused race bike does vary, that bike is actually closer to a race bike with a steeper head angle and lower front end than many designers will choose on their endurance ranges; compare that to say a Trek Domane (a very popular endurance bike) and you will see what I mean.
628836 628837
629035


There is only so much you can work out from a few pictures on forum thread, a geometry chart and a rider's dimensions of course. Flexibility, range of motion, shoe and even hand size, ankling (I'm sure a few of us know some 'toe-dippers' and 'heel-droppers'), muscle type and dimensions and each individuals riding style to name just a few things all play a part in what we are able to achieve on the bike interms of position and then influence the relevant bike type and size to accommodate it all. But, from what I can see at this stage by way of reassurance I repeat; yes it is more focused endurance bike than what I'd normally expect to see but there is a good chance that you should be able to get it to work.

Ideally there would have been value in a fitting prior to purchase, many bike fitters use a bike fit jig which could be set up to both the relevant sizes to help conclude which is the most suitable, then on collection they would fit you to that chosen bike and potentially make any relevant component changes, saddle and stem length for example to get it 'just right'.
 

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Martinsnos

Senior Member
At 5ft 10" looking at that geometry and your pictures of you on it, yes you're at the upper end of what Ribble list as a relevant choice for their 'M' and the lower end of 'L'. But; 'M' and 'L' can often not tell the whole story, you need to look at the geometry in greater detail and when you do I'd wager you'd be able to achieve a suitable 'bike fit' on either size.

Something I referenced in a recent thread is that one thing I'd check on a drop bar bike of this type with a standard seat tube angle to match (normally around 73 degrees for a bike in the OP size) is to make sure the saddle is not set forward on the rails, if someone is struggling with the reach I often see that they move the saddle forward to reduce the reach, although this may seem logical in effect it tips the rider forward increasing weight on their hands and arms, it can feel a bit like you are doing 'a plank' on your bike, although the reach is reduced it often results in less comfort; which the rider will describe in just the same way the OP has. You will often see this very topic discussed as 'Saddle setback', 'Kops' (and the myth of Kops) or 'BMR (Body mass representation)'; there are quite a few useful online examples of how to set up your position, I have attached just one example that you may find useful. Note if one area of the 'fit' is wrong it can throw aspects of the set up out as well.

The Ribble is listed as an 'endurance' bike; just how much a designer dials back a frame/bike fit from a focused race bike does vary, that bike is actually closer to a race bike with a steeper head angle and lower front end than many designers will choose on their endurance ranges; compare that to say a Trek Domane (a very popular endurance bike) and you will see what I mean.

There is only so much you can work out from a few pictures on forum thread, a geometry chart and a rider's dimensions of course. Flexibility, range of motion, shoe and even hand size, ankling (I'm sure a few of us know some 'toe-dippers' and 'heel-droppers'), muscle type and dimensions and each individuals riding style to name just a few things all play a part in what we are able to achieve on the bike interms of position and then influence the relevant bike type and size to accommodate it all. But, from what I can see at this stage by way of reassurance I repeat; yes it is more focused endurance bike than what I'd normally expect to see but there is a good chance that you should be able to get it to work.

Ideally there would have been value in a fitting prior to purchase, many bike fitters use a bike fit jig which could be set up to both the relevant sizes to help conclude which is the most suitable, then on collection they would fit you to that chosen bike and potentially make any relevant component changes, saddle and stem length for example to get it 'just right'.
Wow - many thanks for your detailed reply. Raising the saddle did wonders for me but I’ll definitely read this if buying another bike and I hope it it useful for others.
Thanks again.
 

Twilkes

Guru
At 5ft 10" looking at that geometry and your pictures of you on it, yes you're at the upper end of what Ribble list as a relevant choice for their 'M' and the lower end of 'L'. But; 'M' and 'L' can often not tell the whole story, you need to look at the geometry in greater detail and when you do I'd wager you'd be able to achieve a suitable 'bike fit' on either size.

Something I referenced in a recent thread is that one thing I'd check on a drop bar bike of this type with a standard seat tube angle to match (normally around 73 degrees for a bike in the OP size) is to make sure the saddle is not set forward on the rails, if someone is struggling with the reach I often see that they move the saddle forward to reduce the reach, although this may seem logical in effect it tips the rider forward increasing weight on their hands and arms, it can feel a bit like you are doing 'a plank' on your bike, although the reach is reduced it often results in less comfort; which the rider will describe in just the same way the OP has. You will often see this very topic discussed as 'Saddle setback', 'Kops' (and the myth of Kops) or 'BMR (Body mass representation)'; there are quite a few useful online examples of how to set up your position, I have attached just one example that you may find useful. Note if one area of the 'fit' is wrong it can throw aspects of the set up out as well.

The Ribble is listed as an 'endurance' bike; just how much a designer dials back a frame/bike fit from a focused race bike does vary, that bike is actually closer to a race bike with a steeper head angle and lower front end than many designers will choose on their endurance ranges; compare that to say a Trek Domane (a very popular endurance bike) and you will see what I mean.

There is only so much you can work out from a few pictures on forum thread, a geometry chart and a rider's dimensions of course. Flexibility, range of motion, shoe and even hand size, ankling (I'm sure a few of us know some 'toe-dippers' and 'heel-droppers'), muscle type and dimensions and each individuals riding style to name just a few things all play a part in what we are able to achieve on the bike interms of position and then influence the relevant bike type and size to accommodate it all. But, from what I can see at this stage by way of reassurance I repeat; yes it is more focused endurance bike than what I'd normally expect to see but there is a good chance that you should be able to get it to work.

Ideally there would have been value in a fitting prior to purchase, many bike fitters use a bike fit jig which could be set up to both the relevant sizes to help conclude which is the most suitable, then on collection they would fit you to that chosen bike and potentially make any relevant component changes, saddle and stem length for example to get it 'just right'.
Out of (a lot of) interest, how did you produce the morphing between two bike geometries? I'm aware of sites like bikeinsights but nothing with that level of visuals.
 
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