Saddle ht issue not addressed by most you tubers. Here’s my issue

[ianrauk]

Yep method 1 and would guess that the majority of members on here used the same.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Method one then adjust if necessary after some riding. You’ll soon know when you’ve found the sweet spot.

 

[novetan]

Add in the sag on your soggy saddle.

Method 1 but no shoes, then adjust is OK.

Mine were set up using Bernhard Hinault's book, so I just replicate the height on all my bikes, with slight adjustments for the saddles.

Why without shoe?

 

[Venod]

Method one always works for me plus measure from top of peddle spindle adjacent to the crank, to top of seat and set same as other bikes, I have become very susceptable to differences, I have just fitted a dropper post to the MTB at full height it was 5mm lower on first ride than my other bikes and I could tell, lifted it 5mm and now feels fine.

 

[Oldhippy]

Method 1 definitely. If you have a Brooks saddle it will take forever to sag. As some have already said, it's the 'feel' and you will shuffle all over the place when going any distance.

 

[roadrash]

I find that if I'm wearing my stilettos, then if I put my heel on the pedal to get saddle height, it gives unreliable results.

how about these

 

[Paulus]

I find that if I'm wearing my stilettos, then if I put my heel on the pedal to get saddle height, it gives unreliable results.

Are they SPD specific?

 

[PaulSB]

I put my foot on the pedal in a comfortable position and check my leg extension. If the height is correct I ride, if not I adjust.

I don't see how it needs anything more detailed than this.

 

[Sharky]

I find that if I'm wearing my stilettos, then if I put my heel on the pedal to get saddle height, it gives unreliable results.

Bit of a drag that..

 

[slowmotion]

Method 1 and then fiddle about by very few millimetres at a time until it feels right.

 

[Foghat]

Mine were set up using Bernhard Hinault's book

Same here, although I fine-tuned it from there for my personal preference and variations in pedal design and saddle contouring. Lemond's advice was pretty much based on the same methods as Hinault's.

OP - there's no need to go paying for a 'professional' fitting to get the right saddle height. Whilst the Hinault/Lemond method doesn't, as you say. take foot size or crank length into account, it is perfectly decent as the starting point from which to make final adjustments for your particular circumstances and preferences. And in any case, the professional fitting may well not produce a saddle height you're actually most comfortable with, and isn't something set in stone that you can't diverge from; in fact I would just regard it as another starting point to fine-tune from.

Use the Hinault/Lemond method as your starting point, then try adjustments from there in both directions and see what feels best.

The most useful position/geometry advice from Hinault was to get the saddle further back. He explained how evolving his position in this way improved his riding significantly, and similarly I found everything instantly felt much better after doing the same - more stable, more comfortable, better able to get the power down, knees much happier, MUCH better handling/speed/confidence when blitzkrieging descents. I even started getting frames custom-built with 72-degree seat angles, as seatposts in those days didn't have enough layback, and saddle rail straights were too short or too far back, to achieve the saddle setback I like, with steeper seat angles.

 

[mad despot]

Does it feel right?
Do I feel like I'm not stretching my legs enough or too much?
Do I feel any discomfort, particularly in my knees?

Those questions work for me.
I sometimes raise or lower the saddle 1cm mid ride just to change things a bit.

Even a very few mm can make all the difference once you're in the right ballpark.

 

[novetan]

Same here, although I fine-tuned it from there for my personal preference and variations in pedal design and saddle contouring. Lemond's advice was pretty much based on the same methods as Hinault's.

OP - there's no need to go paying for a 'professional' fitting to get the right saddle height. Whilst the Hinault/Lemond method doesn't, as you say. take foot size or crank length into account, it is perfectly decent as the starting point from which to make final adjustments for your particular circumstances and preferences. And in any case, the professional fitting may well not produce a saddle height you're actually most comfortable with, and isn't something set in stone that you can't diverge from; in fact I would just regard it as another starting point to fine-tune from.

Use the Hinault/Lemond method as your starting point, then try adjustments from there in both directions and see what feels best.

The most useful position/geometry advice from Hinault was to get the saddle further back. He explained how evolving his position in this way improved his riding significantly, and similarly I found everything instantly felt much better after doing the same - more stable, more comfortable, better able to get the power down, knees much happier, MUCH better handling/speed/confidence when blitzkrieging descents. I even started getting frames custom-built with 72-degree seat angles, as seatposts in those days didn't have enough layback, and saddle rail straights were too short or too far back, to achieve the saddle setback I like, with steeper seat angles.

TQ. Alas someone addressed Lemond in comparison. You gave me a very good understanding.

 

[novetan]

Method 2 based on 175 mm cranks ,adjust accordingly if you have different length ones

Are u sure? Greg Lemond didn’t state 175mm. That will be too inflexible and too complicated to calculate for mere mortal cyclists that uses other crank L.

 

[novetan]

Method 1 but not exactly the same as yours
Inline with seat tube not 6 o Clock Not a huge difference I know but one I believe you should be looking at. Never just one leg either. While rolling down a hill I put both heels on and pedal backwards looking to make sure there is no rocking of the hips.
ive watched people do it with one leg and you’ll see their body lean Or stretch slightly to achieve their aim. Pedalling backwards with both is the only way to know you aren’t leaning to reach.

quite sensible !!