Saddle ht issue not addressed by most you tubers. Here’s my issue

[cyberknight]

Are u sure? Greg Lemond didn’t state 175mm. That will be too inflexible and too complicated to calculate for mere mortal cyclists that uses other crank L.

pretty sure , i did read it somewhere and if you use the other methods it concurs if you adjust for crank length as i stated.
example
i had a mtb with 175 mm cranks and the heel on pedal gave me dead on lemonds formula wherea as all my other bikes saddles have the saddle 5 mm higher and have 170 mm cranks and i found the cobb method of .889 x inseam gave me the same ball park as heel on pedal for the shorter crank length .

 

[Twilkes]

Again Dylan Johnson has a great video on this - iirc it's the knee angle measured while pedalling that is the best indicator, 30ish degrees when the pedal is at 6 o'clock position. Some of the other methods were wrong more often than they were right, even two thirds of the time in some cases, so even as a rule of thumb they're not that great. Need to make sure saddle fore/aft is adjusted with it too though.

 

[davidphilips]

Way i normally start is just measure from ground to top of saddle (very inaccurate as Bottom brackets can be at different heights, angle of seat tubes and crank lengths etc then proceed to method 1, then test cycle taking an alan key for fine adjustments.
When i get it right i mark the seat post so i can set the saddle at the correct height when removing the post for maintenance without having to set it up again.

 

[novetan]

Again Dylan Johnson has a great video on this - iirc it's the knee angle measured while pedalling that is the best indicator, 30ish degrees when the pedal is at 6 o'clock position. Some of the other methods were wrong more often than they were right, even two thirds of the time in some cases, so even as a rule of thumb they're not that great. Need to make sure saddle fore/aft is adjusted with it too though.

Personally I believe its one proven method as it has established datas the best angle to suit various riding criteria.
However I still don’t understand why many expert still use outside angle. How do u draw an imaginary line when bike fit? Why don’t just state the inside angle. Your case will be 150 degree, if its DIY using a template, the 150 degree applies.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Some are making it sound harder than it is. All the methods just get you to a ball park then adjust till it feels right. It’s not hard.

 

[ianrauk]

Some are making it sound harder than it is. All the methods just get you to a ball park then adjust till it feels right. It’s not hard.

Indeed. Too much science and thinking going on.

For non elite cyclists it really is just a case of sit on bike, heel on pedal, adjust saddle to suit.

 

[Kajjal]

The key for most is to understand peoples bodies have different dimensions and flexibility. The key is too feel in the bike and not perched on top of it like a penny farthing. If the saddle is too high you will be unstable on the saddle rocking from side to side as you over stretch to the pedals. Any method to adjust will still mean to need to tweak it a bit based on what your body actually does. A very rough guide is if with one crank down in line with the seat tube you can lift yourself slightly off the saddle upwards in line with the seat tube then you will be fine. If you can’t then the saddle is too high.

 

[fatjel]

I use method 1 . Then ride and tweak till i don’t think about saddle height anymore.