Saddle ht issue not addressed by most you tubers. Here’s my issue

[novetan]

Hi,

I’m asking what’s the most acceptable method in adjusting saddle ht. There are several methods but I just tabulate 3 here. The rests are probably in between and left much to be debated. The first two you don’t need to spend a single penny.

1) The commonest and easiest method
Sitting on saddle, straighten your leg wearing your whatever cycling shoe, if it’s a sneaker so be it, with heel on pedal at 6 o’clock. Then when you shift your foot with ball of your foot over the pedal, that will be the correct knee angle and ht. Fast and yet simple. But most articles stated this just a good rough guide.

2) Greg Lemond
In seam ht (measured with no shoe) x 0.883 = ht to be measured fr BB to top of saddle. This method may not be carried out accurately if the book you are using against the wall for measurement is not pressed up against your groin to attain the same pressure as you are sitting on the saddle. This is where the feel may go a little wrong.

3) Retul or equivalent
Carried out by professional fitter, cost money and shld be the most accurate.

I like to discuss method 1 and 2 which is DIY and FOC. Most articles I read was method 2 is prefered over method 1. I’m not sure why. Was it because of his name? I’d have thought actually (1) is more accurate over 2. Reason being, it takes into consideration the type of shoes you are wearing, and also the crankarm length. Whereas Greg method is not taking shoe and crankarm L into consideration, let alone the pressing of book could be inaccurate. So can someone tell me why (2) is more accurate than (1)?

My real issue:
I’m using a leather saddle. When you sit on it, it will further sag another 15mm, kind of hammock shape, as opposed to traditional saddle that normall sag not more than just a few mm. A carbon saddle will probably sag even less. So when fitting the ht of a leather saddle, do I take into consideration of the 15mm sag? If I use (1) or (3), this sag will be taken care off. If (2), this sag will not be considered. Do I add back the 15mm sag if I use (2)? After fitting with (2), I can countercheck with (1) but what if the end results differ much fr each other. Which method shld I accept?

Your expert comments pls

 

[raleighnut]

I've only ever used method 1 having said that you get a feel for when the saddle is 'right' for you.

 

[fossyant]

Add in the sag on your soggy saddle.

Method 1 but no shoes, then adjust is OK.

Mine were set up using Bernhard Hinault's book, so I just replicate the height on all my bikes, with slight adjustments for the saddles.

 

[cyberknight]

Method 2 based on 175 mm cranks ,adjust accordingly if you have different length ones

 

[All uphill]

Does it feel right?
Do I feel like I'm not stretching my legs enough or too much?
Do I feel any discomfort, particularly in my knees?

Those questions work for me.
I sometimes raise or lower the saddle 1cm mid ride just to change things a bit.

 

[bikingdad90]

To me it’s very simple, eyeball height, unscrew and pull up, tighten, ride it. Does it feel right; yes/no. Adjust if necessary?

What is more interesting is if your wearing clipless shoes as the cleat placement differs. I prefer mine as far back as they will go and a slightly lower saddle as opposed to a mid cleat position and a slightly higher saddle. I lose a few revolutions of speed but it helps me keep a level foot and not tilt. Some people prefer a toe down position and will go for a higher height to achieve this.

 

[MichaelW2]

For medium sized riders on medium sized bikes almost any method works well enough to get the height into the right ballpark. Riders can always adjust to suit eg sole thickness.

For very short riders esp most methods fail because their cranks are too long. I see a short lady on my commute with long ( prob 175mm) cranks, saddle set too low, knees coming too high and splayed out legs. She still rides every day.

 

[Vantage]

Method 1 and then a bit more for me.
There's no 'definite' height to go by as pretty much everyone will tweak their saddle position to what suits them best.

 

[Fab Foodie]

Ignore the mumbo jumbo and read this!
Ignore the first bit on crank length, but the rest is a sensible and pragmatic way to get set-up unless you're racing.
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.php

 

[Sharky]

Method 1 !!!!!!!!!!!!
That brings back nightmares of when IT consultants Arthur Andersen descended on us and designed systems by a rule book with fresh faced juniors, rather then experience and common sense.

But for saddle height I guess this works. For myself with multiple bikes, just use a wooden rule and compare to get the same height.

 

[cougie uk]

Don't sweat it. You'll change position whilst in the saddle and also the angle of your foot/ankle.

I do it by feel.

 

[roadrash]

I am sure iv'e said this before but....Personally I use the heel on the pedal at six o clock method followed by the …..is that comfy for me method and adjust accordingly

 

[fossyant]

You can soon tell if the height isn't right when you've been riding another bike for years.

 

[OldShep]

Method 1 but not exactly the same as yours
Inline with seat tube not 6 o Clock Not a huge difference I know but one I believe you should be looking at. Never just one leg either. While rolling down a hill I put both heels on and pedal backwards looking to make sure there is no rocking of the hips.
ive watched people do it with one leg and you’ll see their body lean Or stretch slightly to achieve their aim. Pedalling backwards with both is the only way to know you aren’t leaning to reach.

 

[Paulus]

Method one for me, plus minor tweaking as necessary. Has worked for all my bikes over many years. Even the bike built especially for me by Condor cycles.