Hi,
I’m asking what’s the most acceptable method in adjusting saddle ht. There are several methods but I just tabulate 3 here. The rests are probably in between and left much to be debated. The first two you don’t need to spend a single penny.
1) The commonest and easiest method
Sitting on saddle, straighten your leg wearing your whatever cycling shoe, if it’s a sneaker so be it, with heel on pedal at 6 o’clock. Then when you shift your foot with ball of your foot over the pedal, that will be the correct knee angle and ht. Fast and yet simple. But most articles stated this just a good rough guide.
2) Greg Lemond
In seam ht (measured with no shoe) x 0.883 = ht to be measured fr BB to top of saddle. This method may not be carried out accurately if the book you are using against the wall for measurement is not pressed up against your groin to attain the same pressure as you are sitting on the saddle. This is where the feel may go a little wrong.
3) Retul or equivalent
Carried out by professional fitter, cost money and shld be the most accurate.
I like to discuss method 1 and 2 which is DIY and FOC. Most articles I read was method 2 is prefered over method 1. I’m not sure why. Was it because of his name? I’d have thought actually (1) is more accurate over 2. Reason being, it takes into consideration the type of shoes you are wearing, and also the crankarm length. Whereas Greg method is not taking shoe and crankarm L into consideration, let alone the pressing of book could be inaccurate. So can someone tell me why (2) is more accurate than (1)?
My real issue:
I’m using a leather saddle. When you sit on it, it will further sag another 15mm, kind of hammock shape, as opposed to traditional saddle that normall sag not more than just a few mm. A carbon saddle will probably sag even less. So when fitting the ht of a leather saddle, do I take into consideration of the 15mm sag? If I use (1) or (3), this sag will be taken care off. If (2), this sag will not be considered. Do I add back the 15mm sag if I use (2)? After fitting with (2), I can countercheck with (1) but what if the end results differ much fr each other. Which method shld I accept?
Your expert comments pls
I’m asking what’s the most acceptable method in adjusting saddle ht. There are several methods but I just tabulate 3 here. The rests are probably in between and left much to be debated. The first two you don’t need to spend a single penny.
1) The commonest and easiest method
Sitting on saddle, straighten your leg wearing your whatever cycling shoe, if it’s a sneaker so be it, with heel on pedal at 6 o’clock. Then when you shift your foot with ball of your foot over the pedal, that will be the correct knee angle and ht. Fast and yet simple. But most articles stated this just a good rough guide.
2) Greg Lemond
In seam ht (measured with no shoe) x 0.883 = ht to be measured fr BB to top of saddle. This method may not be carried out accurately if the book you are using against the wall for measurement is not pressed up against your groin to attain the same pressure as you are sitting on the saddle. This is where the feel may go a little wrong.
3) Retul or equivalent
Carried out by professional fitter, cost money and shld be the most accurate.
I like to discuss method 1 and 2 which is DIY and FOC. Most articles I read was method 2 is prefered over method 1. I’m not sure why. Was it because of his name? I’d have thought actually (1) is more accurate over 2. Reason being, it takes into consideration the type of shoes you are wearing, and also the crankarm length. Whereas Greg method is not taking shoe and crankarm L into consideration, let alone the pressing of book could be inaccurate. So can someone tell me why (2) is more accurate than (1)?
My real issue:
I’m using a leather saddle. When you sit on it, it will further sag another 15mm, kind of hammock shape, as opposed to traditional saddle that normall sag not more than just a few mm. A carbon saddle will probably sag even less. So when fitting the ht of a leather saddle, do I take into consideration of the 15mm sag? If I use (1) or (3), this sag will be taken care off. If (2), this sag will not be considered. Do I add back the 15mm sag if I use (2)? After fitting with (2), I can countercheck with (1) but what if the end results differ much fr each other. Which method shld I accept?
Your expert comments pls