Servicing a rear wheel

[Zippy]

I am servicing my rear wheel tonight and some ideas, queries and posers are popping up as I go, so I thought I would share them with y'all.

When rethreading the cones, spacers and locking nuts (quick release), I guess I leave the same amount of threaded spindle sticking out of both sides so the wheel sits balanced in the frame right? I have about 6mm on both sides.

How tight does my wheel need to sit on the cones? This is quite a cheap wheel, so I guess I don;t expect miracles, but when the cones are snug I am getting a dissapointing grabbing feeling when I turn the wheel; but if I loosen the cones off a bit the rotation is beeter but there's too much play on the spindle. It could also be that the metal dust disc (non drive side) is grabbing the hub slightly and it is not the cones at all.

I'm sure there's more and I'll keep you posted, but teatime has just been called ...

 

[rusky]

Don't you just love adjusting cones!!

I stripped the lot down & spent ages getting the cone adjustment right, every time I tighened them they were too tight, loosened them & they were too loose. Eah time, the lock nut span the spindle & loosened it!

 

[bad boy]

I had the same problems and to be honest I just couldnt get it right. I took it to the lbs and had a hub service and they replced the locknut which they said had a dodgy thread and would not stay tight.

I just took it off tonight to check all was ok and to be honest when holding the edges of the axle I was not entirely happy with the fact it felt a little grabby I would say its too tight now I did say to the shop its not too tight now is it so im going to leave it and address it at Febs service, as im sick of playing with it to be honest.

 

[Zippy]

I know what you mean about the wheel feeling grabby when turning it freely on the spindle. I have always put this down to having cheaper wheels ~ £25, but have never held a higher spec wheel to feel the difference.

Here's one - when replacing the cassette, do you smear copperslip on the wheel sleeve or locking disc; or is it not necessary?

 

[Ian H]

The rule for cup and cone hub bearings used to be that less than a 16th of an inch of play at the rim was right. A bent axle will spoil your attempts at proper adjustment. Roll the axle along a flat surface to see if it's bent.

 

[Zippy]

"Makes sure you replace and lock down the cassette before securing the rear wheel spindle or you won't get the cassette removing tool over the spindle locking nut to tighten the cassette locking ring." "Doh!"

"Always remember when handling rear wheels, cassettes and/or wheel spindles to always wash hands before using the keyboard to post on Cycle Chat" Doh! Doh!!

Rear wheel finished - off to bed with me!

Tomorrow - sawing your seat post to fit; part 1.

 

[bad boy]

"Makes sure you replace and lock down the cassette before securing the rear wheel spindle or you won't get the cassette removing tool over the spindle locking nut to tighten the cassette locking ring." "Doh!"

"Always remember when handling rear wheels, cassettes and/or wheel spindles to always wash hands before using the keyboard to post on Cycle Chat" Doh! Doh!!

Rear wheel finished - off to bed with me!

Tomorrow - sawing your seat post to fit; part 1.

Well done mate did you manage to get the cones adjusted just right or were they still grabbing slightly ?.

 

[Zippy]

Hi - grabbing slightly but I think this is the metal dust cap on the non-drive side rather than the bearings; any looser and the spindle is rocking so no good. I don't know if a higher spec wheel would be any better; never tried one.

This wheel is soon to be repaced though as the rims are showing brake shoe wear so this may also be due to wearing in the cones and cups - like the cones are actually too close to the cups because of wear through the cones, bearings and cups no longer being at the correct angles to each other, if you see what I mean.

 

[gavintc]

Having attempted this 'simple' task for the first time this summer, I will give my thoughts. My first experience taught me very quickly that it was not as simple as I had read or been led to believe.

1. You do not need to undo both cones / lock nuts. Having loosened and removed one side, the axle will slip out.
2. The bearings will go everywhere including inside the axle. You need a large working surface with a piece of newspaper to catch the little bearings.
3. You need to put more grease into the bearing races than I had initially appreciated. Pack it well was the advice given to me.
4. Tensioning the bearings is an art form. I still do not really get the required feel. Too tight / too loose is always easier to achieve than the optimum setting. For me, it was trial and error - but lots of practice.

 

[andrew_s]

Bear in mind that tightening up the QR will compress the axle enough to remove a little play, so the bearings have to be adjusted very slightly loose to compensate. If you get the bearings adjusted perfectly off the bike, they will bind when the wheel is fitted.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

This site is often worth a look if you are tackling something for the first time.
http://bicycletutor.com/