Shed security options

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Scaleyback

Veteran
Location
North Yorkshire
Get a rottweiler, make it a nice snug 'den' in the corner of the shed. Bed it down each night then retire yourself happy in the knowledge that some 'scrote' could get the shock of their lives.
 
Location
Wirral
Some folk use concrete reinforcing weldmesh in the wall recess and then WBP ply inside to allow easy wall mounting of usual tat. I'd be minded to leave the weldmesh visible if you have windows, that way if the door defeats them they cant just pull the planks off as they are tied to the weldmesh in 2-3 places (with pipe straddle brackets).
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
. Don't try to toughen the shed, waste of time.

Not a waste of time at all. The tougher the shed is the more difficult it will be to break into, will take longer, and will make a lot of racket. Most commercially made garden sheds are built so flimsy you might as well not even bother to lock them except to stop the wind blowing the door open. The frames are skinny, the planking is thin, and they are only nailed rather than screwed together.

When I built my garden toolshed/workshop I looked at off the shelf stuff and decided I could do much better myself for no more cost. The base is 6" concrete, mixed and laid myself. I used 4" x 2" for the frame, and soaked it in preservative before assembly. Then I got a load of 3/4" construction plywood and built a skin over the frame, held on with screws at less than 6" spacings everywhere there is some frame behind to screw to. The roof is also 3/4" ply screwed down tight everywhere. The windows aren't that big and have thick wire mesh over the insides. If I was only using it for storage I would not even bother with windows at all. The door is a salvaged wooden fire resistant door, and it's heavy. Mine opens inwards and the 3 large tee hinges are not visible outside. The entire outer surface of the walls and door are then clad in T&G planking, which again is closely screwed and not nailed to the structure. In total there's about a thousand woodscrews in the entire build. Everything can be dismantled if need be for maintenance, but it would take a lot of time.
Door security is not mickey mouse either. I've got padlocked Brenton bolts near the top and bottom, and a Chubb Cruiser padlock securing a mid-height fitted Chubb padbar that's both screwed and coach bolted to the woodwork.
I've got a new bike shed planned so I don't need to keep any indoors, and for this I intend to mirror the construction and security of my tool shed minus the windows. Since I've got power available I can also alarm it and/or fit cameras. Rather than rely on ground anchors to stop any scrotes removing things from a flimsy shed, I intend to make the shed itself too tough to easily penetrate, and certainly not without making enough racket to alert me.
 
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DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
You will have been followed home, and I'm guessing the thieves will be patiently waiting for the replacements being delivered too.
Some one has seen the shed, despite it being at the end of the garden, and now they have your bikes.
 

battered

Guru
Not a waste of time at all. The tougher the shed is the more difficult it will be to break into, will take longer, and will make a lot of racket. Most commercially made garden sheds are built so flimsy you might as well not even bother to lock them except to stop the wind blowing the door open. The frames are skinny, the planking is thin, and they are only nailed rather than screwed together.

When I built my garden toolshed/workshop I looked at off the shelf stuff and decided I could do much better myself for no more cost. The base is 6" concrete, mixed and laid myself. I used 4" x 2" for the frame, and soaked it in preservative before assembly. Then I got a load of 3/4" construction plywood and built a skin over the frame, held on with screws at less than 6" spacings everywhere there is some frame behind to screw to. The roof is also 3/4" ply screwed down tight everywhere. The windows aren't that big and have thick wire mesh over the insides. If I was only using it for storage I would not even bother with windows at all. The door is a salvaged wooden fire resistant door, and it's heavy. Mine opens inwards and the 3 large tee hinges are not visible outside. The entire outer surface of the walls and door are then clad in T&G planking, which again is closely screwed and not nailed to the structure. In total there's about a thousand woodscrews in the entire build. Everything can be dismantled if need be for maintenance, but it would take a lot of time.
Door security is not mickey mouse either. I've got padlocked Brenton bolts near the top and bottom, and a Chubb Cruiser padlock securing a mid-height fitted Chubb padbar that's both screwed and coach bolted to the woodwork.
I've got a new bike shed planned so I don't need to keep any indoors, and for this I intend to mirror the construction and security of my tool shed minus the windows. Since I've got power available I can also alarm it and/or fit cameras. Rather than rely on ground anchors to stop any scrotes removing things from a flimsy shed, I intend to make the shed itself too tough to easily penetrate, and certainly not without making enough racket to alert me.
That rather makes the point for me. What you have there isn't a toughened shed, it's a purpose built workshop. To get to the level of security you describe with a normal existing shed, which is what the OP is describing, will take an enormous amount of time and money and as you did you may as well start afresh. As you've said, your workshop has 1000 screws in it. If you are going to do this to store a bike, then don't start with a T&G shed, start with a steel motorcycle store. A friend did exactly this, cost a couple of hundred pounds, use d, and the result is far more secure than anything you or I could build in wood.
 
OP
OP
rivers

rivers

How far can I go?
Location
Bristol
That rather makes the point for me. What you have there isn't a toughened shed, it's a purpose built workshop. To get to the level of security you describe with a normal existing shed, which is what the OP is describing, will take an enormous amount of time and money and as you did you may as well start afresh. As you've said, your workshop has 1000 screws in it. If you are going to do this to store a bike, then don't start with a T&G shed, start with a steel motorcycle store. A friend did exactly this, cost a couple of hundred pounds, use d, and the result is far more secure than anything you or I could build in wood.

My shed isn't some flimsy shed. It's currently retailing for about £1k. It is a windowless workshop in essence, with thick tongue and groove panels. There is one small section of the shed (1m by .5m) that does not butt up against the fence. This is where the shed was accessed and some of the tongue and groove panels ripped off. The fence is on an angle, and our builder laid the concrete base square, so we could not build the shed to butt up against the entire fence. I'm basically going to make it as awkward as possible to access that small bit of area behind the fence, and as awkward as possible to get into the shed. I have replacement tongue and groove panels that will be screwed in, rather than nailed, plus wrapping the entirety of the shed in metal mesh. That should hopefully make it a bit harder to get into. The bikes have never stayed in the shed when we go away, that's not going to change. My new bikes (once I pick it up from the shop) will not be going into the shed until all the security measures are in place, including some sort of ground or wall anchor is in place.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Just don't forget about the Alarm Mine !!

I had an angle grinder in the garage, but it was hidden at the bottom of a metal cabinet that wasn't accessible - main tool that could literally cut through anything. It's since died, but my son's bought a battery one (batteries are with his impact gun) so he keeps that in his room, not the garage.

The more awkward, the sooner they give up. Had two attempts on my garage, one was to remove the window, but it was barred on the inside with roofing truss straps, then someone tried to cut off the hasp lock, completely failed to get anywhere, but it made the garage door 'bang', which woke me up and they fled.

Beef up your door, and make sure the hinges are sufficient.

We've got a fairly 'flimsy' summer house, although additionally insulated and lined, but we leave it unlocked as half of it's polycarbonate glass. I work in there so out comes the laptop and two screens each day - we just leave the power leads and HDMI's connected to a docking station under the desk.
 

battered

Guru
My shed isn't some flimsy shed. It's currently retailing for about £1k... My new bikes (once I pick it up from the shop) will not be going into the shed until all the security measures are in place, including some sort of ground or wall anchor is in place.
In which case some reinforcement of what you have might work out. All I'm saying is that with the Asgard type steel locker mentioned above available, especially used, shoring up a wooden shed may not be the best option. I know I have looked at my own shed and decided that it has all the security of a curtain, so I I simply don't put anything in there that I care about. If I had to, I'd ground anchor it rather than trying to prop up a T&G shed. YMMV.
 
Location
Wirral
<SNIP>

We've got a fairly 'flimsy' summer house, although additionally insulated and lined, but we leave it unlocked as half of it's polycarbonate glass. I work in there so out comes the laptop and two screens each day - we just leave the power leads and HDMI's connected to a docking station under the desk.

I wouldn't leave the connections in sight just in case they think the kit is just stashed out of sight and so they break in to check.
 
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