Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by EasyPeez, 31 Oct 2017.
Does your Equilibrium have a carbon fork like mine?
It does have a carbon fork. It's the new one. I haven't taken any pics yet - I've only done 10 miles on it, intended as an audax bike. I'll get some pics at the weekend.
Interesting fork. Is the hole on the back, front or right through?
I only ask as mine is on the back (different fork) and it has been a pain to fix a headlamp. It’s also my Audax bike.
The hole is right through. The longest bolt with the guards was about 50mm and as its quite a thick fork it needs over 60mm. I got a long bolt and cut it down to about 70mm. I put the bridge in front of the fork, rather than behind as it fitted better. The LBS I bought the first set of guards from suggested I get a female adaptor, similar to the ones used for brake calipers, but he didn't have one the right size to give me.
I'm sure you'll be pleased with your choice. I love mine to bits. Haven't bothered with mudguards on that one as I keep it for best. Will you be sticking with 28mm tyres? I've got 25mm on mine. I'll be looking to put some wider ones on for the Coasts & Castles route next Spring, but not sure what width it will take - around 30/32mm would be my preference if possible. I think your fork might be a different one (albeit both carbon) to my 2015 version.
I've bought it for long-distance endurance cycling. I currently have a specialized tarmac and have had some issues with it because it wont take proper guards and the raceblades threw crud onto the brakes. I pretty much destroyed a set of rear brakepads on a wet audax. It wasn't comfortable enough either for long distances. I think 28s are about the biggest the equilibrium will take with guards. I'll keep them for a start but will change them for GP 4000s eventually - still at 28s.
It's a new fork for the 2018 model, slightly bigger, with thru-axles and flatmount brakes.
I fitted Chromoplastics to my commuter and had similar issues. Fortunately I've amassed quite a supply of spare bits so had everything required to hand! I drilled the rear guard in two places to put bolts with washers directly into the seatstay and chainstay mounting points. On the front I had to use an extra long bolt through the fork crown and use spacers on the left hand fork leg to allow clearance for the disc caliper. I've had to be super careful with alignment as I'm running 32mm tires with 35mm guards so there's not a great deal of clearance They've done 500 miles since then with no problems despite initial concerns that I may have gone too far this time As has already been said a few times in this thread there is definitely some satisfaction to be had from proper DIY mudguard fitting
I used SKS Raceblades
I'm feeling angry now just thinking about fitting them.
And then you start to hear one rubbing in the middle of a long ride.
Nice job @JhnBssll
Agreed, a bit of bodging makes the whole thing feel more rewarding in the end, though it sounds like you needed to improvise even more than me.
What are those tyres, if you don't mind me asking?
Yeah, I considered those but don't think I'd feel comfortable with clip-ons.
Sorry, mistake in my post. They're 42mm tires and 45mm guards. The tires are the standard ones that came on the bike, Maxxis Roamers. Can't fault them so far. I only hope I can find the same ones with the tan sidewall when it comes to replacing them as they look quite funky
Redecorating the house to match the bike - sheer class that.
If you have to bodge a bracket for the seatstay ensure that it's not likely to develop metal fatigue and break in such a way that a razor sharp edge comes into contact with the sidewall of your tyre. DAMHIKT
Managed to get out very briefly today. Bike path was icy and I didn't have enough clothes on. Bike feels good, comfortable, very shallow drops and good on the flat and downhill. Not so good on the way up! Here are some photos. On the fork you can see the end of the long bolt I fitted showing through. The back wheel one shows the bluemels mudguard.
Very smart indeed. Only one change I would make but it’s so petty I’m not sure I should even mention it.
Remove the pie plate?
It doesn't bother me a great deal, but once I'm sure the gears are all working properly I probably will cut it off.
I don't know if you have already fitted the flap but, when a friend was fitting mine, he used a soldering iron to make the holes in the guard, ever so gently. Mind you, there was a brief stinky moment from the plastic. He fixes lots of mudguards and flaps for people so I presume the end of the solder is only used for that purpose.
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