Snapped Chain, need new cassette, new fronts?

[Deleted member 26715]

Done just under 4K on the Cube MTB, this is the 3rd chain, it was making all sorts of noises this morning, kept jumping/slipping thought it might need adjusting & figured I'd do it when I got home. Unfortunately I didn't get that far, 4 miles from home the chain snapped, got split links with me but the chain tool wasn't in the bag, managed to knock the pin out with an Allen key & a stone, so go myself home, the noise & slipping stopped after that so could the chain have snapped on one side which was causing me my problems?

Upshot is does it need a new cassette at 4K, does it need new front as well?

 

[Ajax Bay]

I would give the chain a good clean and then physically/visually check each link of the chain. It may be that you can ride on.
But I personally would not have faith in the chain. And with a new chain you'll definitely need a new cassette. The chainring is worn. Others can offer an opinion as to whether it merits immediate replacement - people's thresholds vary. I would procure a new ring, ready to fit when convenient. You might get chainsuck, but that is normally experienced on the middle and inner rings (for geometric and force reasons, and dirty chain/chainring reasons).

I recently had a similar experience (clicks and a bit of misbehaviour on a chain/cassette combo which had done far less (about 3200km total) than 'normal') but got home OK. Running the chain through kitchen towel (after a bit of oil) revealed a broken outer plate. Cleaned, reconnected with a quicklink and another long (100km+ ride) and again just near the end misbehaviour/clicking. On examination: 2 more broken outer plates (KMC chain). New cassette and SRAM chain now on and riding fine.

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

Chainring looks goosed to me. I would change it. If that had gone then I would change everything. Cassette doesn't look too good but pictures are indistinct. Chain, cassette and rings need replacing. Also I would change cables, inner and outer.

Penny pinching seldom saves money in the long run. Change the lot then you know there is no reason for the whole system not to work perfectly.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Also I would change cables, inner and outer.

Why? Drawing on the OP's description, how would replacing the cables help?
Would you change the tubes and tyres? What about the discs or the pads?

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

He is worried about his gear performance. Remove all the posibilities for error and there should be no further problems. If his drive train has been allowed to get to the state that it doesn't work properly it is not inconceivable that his cables have also been allowed to get into a poor condition.

If he is having trouble braking then he should most certainly change his pads/discs.
If he is having trouble with punctures then he should most certainly look at his tyres/tubes.
But he hasn't mentioned these so I am uncertain why you are suggesting that he changes them.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

He is worried about his gear performance. Remove all the posibilities for error and there should be no further problems. If his drive train has been allowed to get to the state that it doesn't work properly it is not inconceivable that his cables have also been allowed to get into a poor condition.

Gear performance was fine up until today, no problems shifting up or down, so I do not intend to change cables, but I have ordered a new chain & cassette, also a had to order a new chain whip as mine snapped trying to undo the cassette

 

[CXRAndy]

signs of corrosion on the chain, from previous events, allowed to sit rusting.

Change the lot, cass and front. hain ring. Maintain chain set by cleaning muck off once ride is finished and lubricate liberally, ready for next ride.