Snapped spindle

[Dogtrousers]

I've only ever had to resort to extreme force/leverage to remove a BB once. That was the fixed cup in an old style loose bearings BB.

Others, whether cartridge or outboard might be a bit stiff but that's all. And everything has its own obscure tools, whether it's octalink thingies or BB spanners. I've never used a hammer and chisel and I'm the cack-handedest buffoon that you're likely to come across.

I have hammered out cotter pins. I suppose that counts as violent.

 

[silva]

Yes because the crankset is not the bottom bracket. The bearings are in the bottom bracket. But even with a HT2 bottom bracket; if you are using a chisel and hammer, then you are a crack handed buffoon.

Are you jesting(1)?
I referred failed bearings as the reason to have to remove the crankset - you can't replace bottom bracket / bearings without removing the crankset first.
The point was not where the bearings are.
Are you jesting(2)?
The point was that the dealer that I asked the job of replacing the bearings/bottom bracket, needed a hammer to get the drive side part out.
Why would he use a hammer and chisel if he could just pull it out?
I checked and found:
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog...nd-installation-two-piece-compression-slotted

4. Remove remaining crank arm by pulling it to the right and out of the bike. It may be necessary to use a mallet to tap the spindle on the left side.

So to me, it looks like the dealer followed ParkTools howto.
Yet, you stick "crack handed buffoon" on doing that.
I'd rather state that you're a "crack handed buffoon" if you would try to pull it out with force from the driveside, and inflict damage instead of hammering the spindles left side to push it out.

 

[classic33]

He might be a sculptor?

Or Stonemason.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Are you jesting(1)?
I referred failed bearings as the reason to have to remove the crankset - you can't replace bottom bracket / bearings without removing the crankset first.
The point was not where the bearings are.
Are you jesting(2)?
The point was that the dealer that I asked the job of replacing the bearings/bottom bracket, needed a hammer to get the drive side part out.
Why would he use a hammer if he could just pull it out?
I checked and found:
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog...nd-installation-two-piece-compression-slotted

So to me, it looks like the dealer followed ParkTools howto.
Yet, you stick "crack handed buffoon" on doing that.

There's a difference between a mallet (as mentioned by Park) and a "chisel and hammer" that you claimed you'd seen a dealer using.

A mallet is not a hammer.

Anyone using a hammer anywhere on a bike is a cack handed buffoon. And as for a chisel. Well, my grandad, who was a carpenter, would not be impressed.

 

[silva]

I've only ever had to resort to extreme force/leverage to remove a BB once. That was the fixed cup in an old style loose bearings BB.

Others, whether cartridge or outboard might be a bit stiff but that's all. And everything has its own obscure tools, whether it's octalink thingies or BB spanners. I've never used a hammer and chisel and I'm the cack-handedest buffoon that you're likely to come across.

I have hammered out cotter pins. I suppose that counts as violent.

I didn't say the dealer used extreme force, I said that he needed a hammer and a chisel to get the driveside part of the Hollow Technology 2 out.
What else anyway? It had to be pushed, and it has to be pushed in a depth, the depth requires a chisel, the chisel requires a hammer.
Maybe Mister Ming the Mercyless wants to use the pencil in his pocket as a chisel and his left shoe as a hammer, and maybe it works, and maybe maybe maybe....

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I referred failed bearings as the reason to have to remove the crankset - you can't replace bottom bracket / bearings without removing the crankset first.

And to remove a HT2 crankset you just need to use an Allen key. Frankly if the bearings have a lot of play; then you have neglected them long before you should have replaced. As to using hammer and chisel. Jesus wept!

Your problems smack of no mechanical sympathy and neglecting things to the extreme. You’ll be telling me you don’t oil your chains next.

 

[silva]

There's a difference between a mallet (as mentioned by Park) and a "chisel and hammer" that you claimed you'd seen a dealer using.

A mallet is not a hammer.

Anyone using a hammer anywhere on a bike is a cack handed buffoon. And as for a chisel. Well, my grandad, who was a carpenter, would not be impressed.

On https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mallet
Not a hammer?
The dealer apparently needed to also hammer further after the left end went past the bottom brackets end, and since you can't hammer on something that is underneath,he used a chisel as inbetween, until drive side loose enough to do the rest by hand and without damage.
This is no rocket science, and no demolition science, yet you made it your point of discussion, while my point was and is simply that an allen key alone didn't do the job.
.

 

[Fastpedaller]

On https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mallet
Not a hammer?
The dealer apparently needed to also hammer further after the left end went past the bottom brackets end, and since you can't hammer on something that is underneath,he used a chisel as inbetween, until drive side loose enough to do the rest by hand and without damage.
This is no rocket science, and no demolition science, yet you made it your point of discussion, while my point was and is simply that an allen key alone didn't do the job.
.

Guys, guys! what's a hammer? I don't have one in my cycle toolkit

 

[Ming the Merciless]

my point was and is simply that an allen key alone didn't do the job.

No one suggested an Allen key would remove a HT2 bottom bracket. In a similar fashion, a crank puller will not remove a square taper BB. You should not be using hammer and chisel either. There is a simple cheap tool, that will remove the HT2 BB without excessive force or cack handedness..

 

[silva]

And to remove a HT2 crankset you just need to use an Allen key. Frankly if the bearings have a lot of play; then you have neglected them long before you should have replaced. As to using hammer and chisel. Jesus wept!

Your problems smack of no mechanical sympathy and neglecting things to the extreme. You’ll be telling me you don’t oil your chains next.

Again: the dealer used hammer and chisel, and ParkTools howto also states it may be needed.

About your new Nth point of criticism here: you equal my description "alot of play" as neglection, but for my case, singlespeed, chainring 52T on the previous bike, the clearance the chainring had with the frame tube, was barely a mm away.
That is, at the edge, the top of the teeth of the chainring.
So, any play is already "alot", since the chainring would start to fret in the alu of the frames tube.
I noticed paint damage, that's how I discovered it.
It's rather you that neglects / interpretes in any harmful way you can to the extreme.

And I didn't oil my chains for a while, as a test, I said it on this forum.
So your next criticism point is once again a jesting of not knowing.
But since you mention it here, I'll be once again your guest:
But problem with no oil was, despite a chain shielded away as much as possible from road mud and rain, that humidity in the air condensed on the metal, resulting in rust, which forced me back to putting oil on it.
I don't have a heated place to park the bike, so overnight in humid air = rust by the morning.
So, I couldn't continue the test of chain wear without lubrication, so no test results.
Repeat for you, with my pleasure.
But you're hunting problems instead of solutions, no?

 

[silva]

Guys, guys! what's a hammer? I don't have one in my cycle toolkit

Maybe you have a Mallet in your cycle toolkit, it walks talks and looks like a hammer but according to Ming the Mercyless a mallet is something else than a hammer.
Maybe he wears a Millet, and calling a Millet a vest is a crime.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

but according to Ming the Mercyless a mallet is something else than a hammer.

Where have a mentioned mallet in any of my postings before this? You are confused as to whom you think said what. However a mallet is not a hammer unless you are mechanically inept and do not know the difference.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Again: the dealer used hammer and chisel, and ParkTools howto also states it may be needed.

Please provide a link to where park tools says to use hammer and chisel to remove a HT2 bottom bracket. Me, I prefer to use the correct tool for the job.

 

[Jameshow]

Riding a HT2 bike or worse still a bb30 bike is like saying that a V8 isn't as economical as a 1.0 car.

 

[silva]

No one suggested an Allen key would remove a HT2 bottom bracket. In a similar fashion, a crank puller will not remove a square taper BB. You should not be using hammer and chisel either. There is a simple cheap tool, that will remove the HT2 BB without excessive force or cack handedness..

You said you used an allen key alone, and that you also used the same allen key on other bolts of your bike of the same size.
If your shoes had allen head bolts in them, I'm sure you'd have mentioned those too, as to illustrate the General Usability of your One Tool For All storyline.

The square taper design is simple, robust and compact, protected alike a snail in its house, and a proven over a century design, there is little that can go wrong, unlike the Hollow Technology, which has seen "delaminating" cranks, by due to press-fit losening left cranks (first design Octalink, which was the reason to design something better), and broken hollow axles.
This indicates a design that after a couple decades and despite its cost, is not long lasting, and still even flirts with the edge of disaster.
That all doesn't mean that it serves nobody a benefit, but the beneficiaries are limited
to racing and people who require hollow in order to stay with a rest that is all hollow, aka the world where 1 sec difference on 1 km matters more than the involved cost and risk.
Of course, the bicycle branche of the economy likes hollow technology, for the same reason that workshoe salesmen like polyurethane soles because hydrolysis makes these fall apart like cake, to then recommend on their site "replace your shoes in time", followed by the address of their shop.