Some reassurance needed before switching cassettes

[raleighnut]

I know it doesn't help much but the best way of checking chain length is to wrap the chain around the large/large sprockets (not through the rear mech) and there should be a 2 link overlap, however if the overlap is 4 links then a 2 tooth bigger rear sprocket should be OK.
You are never going to use that combination but you need it to be possible to select it.

 

[Nigelnaturist]

What's the difference between the 5700 RD and your 5701?

Nothing according to these

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5701-10-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod85966
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-105-rd-5700-rear-derailleur/

 

[Nomadski]

If you give me this info, I'll have a stab at working out how to make the chain if you would like.

*How big is your biggest chain ring? 50

*What is the chainstay length? 41cm

* What is the length of your new cut chain in terms of number of inner links and number of outer links? What type are the links at each end of the chain, inner or outer? 54 inner / 53 outer links

*What does the short cut-off remnant comprise of? Do you mean what does each end look like? Both inner parts. See pics.

(This is the old chain obviously! New chain was cut to exact same way but currently has quick link attached in addition).

Also, it occurred to me if I were to attach the new cassette with the new chain cut to the same length as the old one, it would chainge the RD shape when at its most extreme - the pic below is the chain on the biggest rear cog with the current cassette, if that helps at all.

 

[Nomadski]

I know it doesn't help much but the best way of checking chain length is to wrap the chain around the large/large sprockets (not through the rear mech) and there should be a 2 link overlap, however if the overlap is 4 links then a 2 tooth bigger rear sprocket should be OK.
You are never going to use that combination but you need it to be possible to select it.

When you say two link overlap, do you mean inner or outer links? Not very up on chain terminology I'm afraid.

Am heading up to Evans to pick up the cassette now, so this afternoon should find out.

 

[raleighnut]

(This is the old chain obviously! New chain was cut to exact same way but currently has quick link attached in addition).

View attachment 83564 View attachment 83565

Also, it occurred to me if I were to attach the new cassette with the new chain cut to the same length as the old one, it would chainge the RD shape when at its most extreme - the pic below is the chain on the biggest rear cog with the current cassette, if that helps at all.

View attachment 83567

If that's on the large front sprocket as well then the chain is plenty long enough.

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Sorry if I am being a Thicko but whats that little metal bit with the hole in at about 11'o'clock on the spindle axis?

 

[Nomadski]

Sorry if I am being a Thicko but whats that little metal bit with the hole in at about 11'o'clock on the spindle axis?

That's the rear fittings for the SKS Raceblade Longs. mudguard fitting in 5 seconds! Only thing is it makes putting the rear wheel back on a bit more tricky.


Update

Ok so the new cassette is fitted. The RD positions with the 50 chainring selected at the front, are as below -

Cassette 30T

Cassette 12T

There is still enough of a gap between the RD and Cassette I think -

Side

30T

12T

Only issues

When turning the wheel am getting a clicking sound with the 12T selected. When I slow it down I see the chain kind of jumping into its position every quarter turn or so -

I guess this is indication I need to adjust the gears??

And cross chaining is causing much more chain rub against the FD, I guess expectedly -

Another cuppa time methinks.

 

[themosquitoking]

Looks like you might be a bit short on that chain mate, what does the derailleur look like on small small?

 

[raleighnut]

1: don't cross chain, you only need the ability to select big/big in case you accidentally select it.
2: the indexing will need a little tweak with a different cassette.
3: stopping for a cuppa is always a good idea.
4: chain is OK

 

[Nomadski]

Looks like you might be a bit short on that chain mate, what does the derailleur look like on small small?

34/12T (Small Small)

 

[themosquitoking]

34/12T (Small Small)

View attachment 83605

Yeah ok, i wouldn't lengthen that anymore. Just stop using the big big combination, get into the little ring further down the cassette.

 

[raleighnut]

Yep, its right on the limit for the drivetrain but importantly it is within the limit.

 

[Nomadski]

@themosquitoking Its not a problem big / big (though I know I should never cross the chain) theres no real rub on the FD, and no noises at the back.

Its an issue small / small. The chain jumping is more worrying than the rub on the FD.

 

[raleighnut]

@themosquitoking Its not a problem big / big (though I know I should never cross the chain) theres no real rub on the FD, and no noises at the back.

Its an issue small / small. The chain jumping is more worrying than the rub on the FD.

Increase B screw tension to move the top jockey wheel out from the cassette.

 

[themosquitoking]

@themosquitoking Its not a problem big / big (though I know I should never cross the chain) theres no real rub on the FD, and no noises at the back.

Its an issue small / small. The chain jumping is more worrying than the rub on the FD.

Increase B screw tension to move the top jockey wheel out from the cassette.

Yeah you'll be able to fettle the angle so it looks a bit less harsh.