Split link advice required.

[ColinJ]

Don't worry. The chances of needing to undo a split link when out riding are almost nil. The chance of needing to join a broken chain is slightly higher but still a low risk on an otherwise well maintained bike.

I agree, but it is such a showstopper if you can't fix a broken chain that I think it is wise to be ready.

I think I have only broken a couple of my chains in 30 years of cycling, but I have fixed at least 5 or 6 chains for other riders in that time.

 

[I like Skol]

I agree, but it is such a showstopper if you can't fix a broken chain that I think it is wise to be ready.

I think I have only broken a couple of my chains in 30 years of cycling, but I have fixed at least 5 or 6 chains for other riders in that time.

Agreed, be prepared to fix a broken chain. How many times in those 30yrs have you had to undo a split link while out on the road?

 

[ColinJ]

Agreed, be prepared to fix a broken chain. How many times in those 30yrs have you had to undo a split link while out on the road?

I either haven't, or it has been so rarely that I can't even remember doing it!

Having said that, I usually do not have a problem splitting 9-speed and 10-speed SRAM links. They can be a bit tricky if the chain is dirty but with a clean chain and squeezing the sides of the link, they are not so bad. (I might try one later just to prove how wrong I am! )

 

[night cycler]

A lot of information here from you guys (thank you), but for it to be helpful I need to be sure I have understood it correctly. I have questions.

1: When the term chain tool is mentioned, are we referring to master link plyers OR the link extractor tool as in my photo (if I'm using the correct term)?

2: If an 11 speed chain breaks while out, am I right to assume that the appropriate way to repair it is to use the extractor tool as opposed to fitting another master link? (I am assuming that master link is the term for a split link?

3: It has been mentioned on here that an 11 speed chain should not be rejoined. So, after getting home on the temporary fix the chain should be replaced. Is that correct?

4: The link removal tool in my photo was used to rejoin a broken chain on my MTB. Do I need to buy a different link extractor tool that fits the smaller pins of an 11 speed chain?

5: The 11 speed chain on my Triban540 is not stamped with the letters HG so is not Shimano?

6: Assuming not Shimano, what split link do I need to buy for the Heinz 57 chain that is currently fitted? (Just to keep in tool kit).
This the one I used to use on the MTB.

 

[mjr]

1. chain tool usually means the extractor type tool.

2. no, on the road, you use the tool to disconnect the remains of the mangled link (almost always outer plates) then fit a second master link.

3. not necessarily IMO but I would replace it ASAP because if it's snapped once, then it's probably weak enough to do it again.

4. some extractor tools have a support opposite the pin which can be screwed in and out. If it has that (so you can move the support in to support the chain but not hold tight) and the prongs/teeth/cradle is narrow enough to fit inside an 11-speed chain, it should work. I don't think that one does. Otherwise, it's new tool time, looking for one which is 11-speed-compatible.

5. I don't know but probably not. What is the chain stamped with? TAYA and YBN are makers, Z or X usually suggests it's KMC, PC and a number suggests SRAM.

6. I think all compatible chains should use the same split link width. KMC are sold separately and pretty good.

 

[dantheman]

Yes, I think if it's the correct speed split link it should work, just the widths are different for the pins (don't know about campagnolo ones though..). I also think decathlon use their in house chains which I think are made by kmc...

I have broken a few chains but usually on the hill I live on so just walked home.. Always carry a quick link though, funnily enough, if you are worried then decathlon sell their own branded ones, they are what's in my saddle bag and I usually run kmc chains.

 

[ColinJ]

Removal:

View attachment 408529

The mole grips shown are just a convenient object to tap the end with, otherwise you can use pretty well anything handy, such as a stone.

I am just replacing the transmission on my bike so I thought I'd try that technique for removing the masterlink. I used the business end of a screwdriver on the roller in the chain link and I actually did use a rock to tap the handle of the screwdriver. I can confirm that this neat trick works!

I don't have trouble removing the links from chains in good condition but this one was really manky and wouldn't shift ...

 

[si_c]

Had a chain break on me once, and a quicklink failure on another occasion. Both fixable with a new quicklink.

@night cycler a HG stamp means it's a shimano hyperglide chain, so it's not a generic. Any SRAM KMC or Compatible link will be fine.

 

[night cycler]

Mjr-Your detailed explanation of the 6 points has made it a lot clearer for me. Thank you for your effort doing that - it is much appreciated.

 

[night cycler]

Had a chain break on me once, and a quicklink failure on another occasion. Both fixable with a new quicklink.

@night cycler a HG stamp means it's a shimano hyperglide chain, so it's not a generic. Any SRAM KMC or Compatible link will be fine.

It's a KMC CL555 11 speed. Had to get the Lezyne 700 on the job with a magnifying glass AND reading glasses!

 

[mjr]

6. I think all compatible chains should use the same split link width. KMC are sold separately and pretty good.

...except for single-speed ones! I note with some amusement that a single-use two-part KMC B1 quick link was sufficiently tight on the chain I replaced today that it was easier to break the chain elsewhere! Lesson learned: I fitted the new chain with a reusable three-piece quick link (a Dutch brand beginning with D whose name escapes me right now).