Day 803, Wednesday, November 24, 2021, Tesalia to La Plata 31 km Total KM 14306
Min meters 806, Max Meters 1019
Total Climb 439 Total Descent 263
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 27
The Third Way
If you ever tire of the humdrum of normal life, feel that you're insignificant and that life consists of just going through a series of numbing, repetitive motions then I have a cure! Come to small town Colombia! Hop on a loaded bike and roll into town. It's important to pack one thing - a smile. People will stare curiously, some will smile back shyly, the motorbikers will wave and when you pull up at the little Plaza an old man will give you a coffee that you have to fight to pay for. For the people around you'll become the centre of their conversations. They'll speculate where you're from, where you're going - not in any way disrespectfully, just curiously. They'll comment on snippets they can glean from your conversation with another. They'll watch you wander over to the church and perhaps slyly approach the bike for a better look. In most places that's a cause for concern. Not here. Away from the bike looking up this street and down that one you'll hear "that's him, the guy on the bike". You're a celebrity! In a far off country, in a little town, in the middle of nowhere (a beautiful, mountainy nowhere). It feels pretty good!
Not the most auspicious of mornings!
It's been like that the last few days in these parts, most notable in the smaller places. Back in Yaguará the other evening a group of teenagers started chatting about me as I wandered the Plaza. They seemed to be cleaning up, a mix of boys and girls. I was a gringo, it was decided. They were bemused by my taking photos of the Plaza - to them it was normal and boring. When I finally interrupted their speculations to tell them I was Irish I got squeals of embarassment. We had a quick chat but multiple conversations are exhausting for me so I left them wanting more.
A lovely tree canopy had me forgetting about the sky!
So, there was more torrential rain last night. And again this morning. I aborted my departure three times because if the rain but had a lovely chat with the ten year old son of the house.
Coffeed up but lacking breakfast I set off in the rain. I'd given up waiting for it to stop. It wasn't too heavy. My first stop was only about 7km up the road where I planned to have breakfast. Paicol required turning off the road and going up a hill - a good thing I was hungry or I may have skipped it. I turned off and slowly climbed into the little village. And that's where the magic outlined above happened. Time after time after time in Colombia I feel so comfortable in these foreign towns. Ah, they're not really foreign any more.
I did a lap of the Plaza, ogled the church (320 years old, I was proudly told) and as I was parking the bike close to a coffee vendor he was over with a tinto in his hand for me. He didn't want any pesos - I was welcome to his town. We had a short chat but then he left me alone to my own devices. The money I left on his stand ignored. Ditto with my second coffee.
Today's río still fast, still pretty furious
The Plaza filled with trees, plants and seats called out to me so I sat and ate a couple of pastries bought from a baker on the corner. The two old boys on the seat opposite talked about me. There was a calmness in the air despite a steady stream of traffic flowing past. I could so easily have stayed.
The church doors opened so I went to explore and then leaving the bike where it was took a little wander around. Very relaxing, very pleasant. Delightful in fact!
They had a sign up with a QR code with tourist info about the town if you want to visit:
http://www.paicol-huila.gov.co/tema/turismo
A few soft showers had me in no rush to get back on the road. In fact, the rain was bothering me. Down the road was La Plata, a biggish town and after that I had a choice - another high climbing backroad for two or three days or a better main road. My heart said backroad, my head the good one. Two nights torrential rain, more rain both mornings my head was looking like the right option.
Then I saw the third way; Down to La Plata and stop. Make up my mind tomorrow!
More time in Paicol! I have only a handful of photos because it's not what's to be seen in these places that's important - it's what's to be felt.
Comfortable. Welcome.
Back on the road and it wasn't a bad one at all!
Interestingly, the way I am being addressed has changed. Up north people called out "Amigo" - friend or mate. In a shop I may be referred to as "Caballero" (Gentleman) or Señor (Sir/Mister). Of late, people reger to me as vecino (neighbour). I'm taking that to mean that I'm different, but welcome.
The sun playing with the clouds and mountains
Something else that has changed subtlely from further north is the music. I noted leaving the desert that the first town had houses pumping out music. That has continued and a few shops do too. Loud, but not too loud. And traditional - my kind of music.
Finally, the towns and villages have more trees. I've found trees in towns to be very interesting in their own right and also calming. With the music and trees I'm reminded a lot of México. That not a bad thing!
When the trees let me peek the sky still looked scary!
When I had finally soaked up all that Paicol had to offer I pulled in my roots, said goodbye to my coffee man and rolled out of town.
I had a good, quiet road and a whole lot of tree cover to keep me amused with some interesting and at times, scary, skyscapes.
I passed a fabulous channel cut out of a cliff by roaring water and struggled to get a good shot and cycled happily along up and down rolling hills.
Like yesterday there was a lot of furious water, mainly ríos today, soon added to by more rain. Rainjacket on I sweated up the hills and was grateful for the jacket on the descents.
I like the definition of these mountains
The landscape was sometimes open with intriguing mountains or closed off behind trees. With about 7km to go the sun started to dominate and the rainjacket was ditched.
The really, really furious river at La Plata
La Plata has spread across the river so I crossed the bridge (and a very angry río!) and headed to the Plaza. A delightful place it was all action. A University seemed to be haaving a recruitment day and there were tents set up to offer people free legal advice. A bright, colourful church dominated and guys were busy in the Plaza putting up Christmas decorations. A lap of the Plaza and I stopped for my coffee. It wasn't long before I was approached for a chat. It really is great!
iOverlander had a hotel but it was out of town and I preferred to stay close. Close to the river were some cheap Hospedajes so I pulled in and got myself a cheap room. A cold (mountain water brrrrrrr!) shower and out I went to explore. It's great arriving early and not exhausted!
The town's a bit rough'n'ready but pleasant. And busy. Away from the Plaza equally sized streets are thronged with people and shops. On one street a line of horses and carts waiting to carry people or goods. The jeeps, so common in the coffee areas, have disappeared from the roads. A loss in the colour of the road.
Arriving in to La Plata. Those mountains are right behind and dominate the town. The booze ad on top of the building is blocking the view of the spire of the church
I grabbed a small bite to eat then retired to the Plaza. Just to people watch and write up some notes. Pleasantly warm and dry it's a very nice way to pass the late afternoon.
To be continued......
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098
