Threadless headset on threaded forks

[Andrew_Culture]

Finally, after what seems like an incredible amount of hunting (and thanks to HUGE assistance from @Scilly Suffolk ) I have a nicer frame for my SingleSpeed (I currently have a horrid modern frame).

The plan is to move everything that I have on the current SingleSpeed bike over to the new frame (apart from the durrelier I was using as a chain tensioner!).

BUT I have a threadless headset on my current set up and as you can see this frame has threaded forks.

I've spotted quill to a-head adapters on ebay,

As far as I can tell half the headset goes in the bottom of the head tube, and the other half goes in the top and then this adapter does.... what? Does it jam into the centre of the top of the fork tube (steerer?) and hold the forks and headset in place? Does my current threadless stem then clamp to this slightly wider part at the stop of this adapter?

Do I saw off the top threaded bit of the current forks?

 

[Andrew_Culture]

The setup on my current singlespeed:

 

[HovR]

You'll need a threaded headset to secure the threaded forks to the frame. As far as I know you're not able to use a threadless headset with threaded forks.

Once the fork is fitted with the new headset the threaded to threadless adapter slots in to the steerer tube, and you tighten up the bolt on the top which wedges it in place. Your threadless stem can then attach to the wider part at the top (you may have to place the stem on before tightening up the top bolt. I haven't used one of these before).

The adapters are only to allow you to be able to use a stem designed for threadless, not an entire threadless headset.

 

[Andrew_Culture]

You'll need a threaded headset to secure the threaded forks to the frame. As far as I know you're not able to use a threadless headset with threaded forks.

Once the fork is fitted with the new headset the threaded to threadless adapter slots in to the steerer tube, and you tighten up the bolt on the top which wedges it in place. Your threadless stem can then attach to the wider part at the top (you may have to place the stem on before tightening up the top bolt. I haven't used one of these before).

The adapters are only to allow you to be able to use a stem designed for threadless, not an entire threadless headset.

Wow, thank you so much for clearing this up! I did consider getting some carbon threadless forks and having everything threadless, but the forks that come with the frame just look so right for it, and wide carbon forks might spoil the whole look!

 

[Andrew_Culture]

That being said I've just looked into fitting threaded headsets and they look horribly complicated compared to threadless! I might shop around for some fairly natural looking carbon threadless forks. I'm in no mad rush for this build.

 

[HovR]

Threadless headsets are definitely a massive improvement if you plan on taking your fork off regularly for servicing or fitting the bike in to a car boot etc, however come with the disadvantage of once you've cut the steerer, you can't raise the bars again.

Threaded headsets are a bit more fiddly to set up (very similar to setting wheel bearings correctly, but with only one cone and locknut), and often use loose ball bearings meaning taking the fork out is a bit of a pain, but once set up are no more hassle than threadless and gives you more control over getting your bar height correct.

 

[Andrew_Culture]

Threadless headsets are definitely a massive improvement if you plan on taking your fork off regularly for servicing or fitting the bike in to a car boot etc, however come with the disadvantage of once you've cut the steerer, you can't raise the bars again.

Threaded headsets are a bit more fiddly to set up (very similar to setting wheel bearings correctly, but with only one cone and locknut), and often use loose ball bearings meaning taking the fork out is a bit of a pain, but once set up are no more hassle than threadless and gives you more control over getting your bar height correct.

This is my all year round commuter so being able to take it apart for servicing will be a massive help, as are you

 

[compo]

Threaded headsets are a cinch to fit. A short length of studding and a couple of coach washers with a couple of nuts to pull the cups into the frame (or a lump of wood and a hammer!), once that is done, and the crown race is fitted to the forks, the rest just falls together. Honest, it's a doddle. I have to do the same job later this week when I get my frame back from the painters and I have bought a new headset ready to fit.

 

[fossyant]

What compo says. If you can go for a 1" headset with cartridge bearings (these do cost more) as you don't have to change the races if the bearings wear out - you remove the cartridge and pop in new. That said they aren't cheap. Stronglight A9 is about £30, but the more standard ones come in much cheaper.

OMG I've just seen the price of the Dura Ace 1" headset on SJS Cycles £90 - OMG my best bike has one of these and a 'SPARE' unopened one - god the price has rocketed.

 

[Andrew_Culture]

I would also have to buy some headset spanners

 

[compo]

OMG I've just seen the price of the Dura Ace 1" headset on SJS Cycles £90 - OMG my best bike has one of these and a 'SPARE' unopened one - god the price has rocketed.

£90!!!!

I'd want a bike and a three year guarantee for that.

 

[compo]

I would also have to buy some headset spanners

Some years ago I bought a 32mm spanner off Ebay for headsets. It was sold for something on a LandRover, but 32mm on a Landrover is no different to 32mm on a bike. It is very thin but very heavy and strong and wont bend or deform. I paid about a fiver for it posted. That does the cups and I just use a normal spanner on the lock ring as it doesn't need to be a thin spanner.

 

[Hacienda71]

He could buy a cheap one of the bay for £7 or £8 quid.

 

[Andrew_Culture]

Some years ago I bought a 32mm spanner off Ebay for headsets. It was sold for something on a LandRover, but 32mm on a Landrover is no different to 32mm on a bike. It is very thin but very heavy and strong and wont bend or deform. I paid about a fiver for it posted. That does the cups and I just use a normal spanner on the lock ring as it doesn't need to be a thin spanner.

I like your style.

 

[compo]

He could buy a cheap one of the bay for £7 or £8 quid.

That is the one I bought last week for my frame from Wheelies. Ordered online, paid with PayPal, received it two days later.
Only thing I would suggest to the OP if he goes down the threaded headset route is to measure his frame and forks very carefully to make sure he gets the right ones. AccountantPete and RecordAceFromNew messed me up totally with their ISO's and JIS's. (see my thread "Today Daft Question" in the KnowHow section). I am thankful they did though or I would have ordered the wrong size.