As mentioned upthread, Stronglight A9 is the way to go for a long lasting threaded headset. I have one on the pink magenta bike that's 12 years old. I had one on the red fixer, but that died (the bike, not the headset), after being taken roughly from behind on a roundabout. It's all to do with the use of roller (?) bearings, instead of balls, together with angled faces for them to sit in.
Threadless headset on threaded forks
- Thread starter Andrew_Culture
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GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
Oi, never mind your headset; you'll have someone's eye out with those zip ties!
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Andrew_Culture
Internet Marketing bod
- Location
- The People's Republic Of Suffolk.
As it currently stands my singlespeed is intentionally ugly to deter thieves, in its next incarnation it will be much prettier.
Scilly Suffolk
Über Member
Best price for Stronglight A9: 1) alloy, cartridge bearings or 2) steel, ball bearings. I'm pretty sure the ball bearings will be caged rather than loose.
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Andrew_Culture
Internet Marketing bod
- Location
- The People's Republic Of Suffolk.
Ta star!
I use a large pair of these
Along with one of these:
(Then again I'm not working with £90 headsets!)
Old Plodder
Living at the top of a steep 2 mile climb
- Location
- Surrey/Hants border
One thing to watch out for on headset bearings is 'stack height', it can vary a bit.
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Andrew_Culture
Internet Marketing bod
- Location
- The People's Republic Of Suffolk.
Duly noted ta.
jonny jeez
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chislehurst, Kent, UK
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Andrew_Culture
Internet Marketing bod
- Location
- The People's Republic Of Suffolk.
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Andrew_Culture
Internet Marketing bod
- Location
- The People's Republic Of Suffolk.
I feel like a bit of plum for asking this, but I've just measured the ID of the top tube using some vernier callipers here at work and the ID is 1.18" so will that Stronglight threaded headset still be okay?
You need to know:
The internal diameter of the crown race, the internal diameter of your head tube, and the external diameter of the steerer tube, which is probably 1". Then you will need to have some idea of the stack height. The reason for getting the ID of the headtube is so you can get the correct size cups to press into the headtube. For example on mine the headtube is 30mm, the crown race is 27mm and the steerer 25.4mm. Essentially they are the three critical measurements that are usually listed with headsets. Stack heights you will need to work out as well.
The internal diameter of the crown race, the internal diameter of your head tube, and the external diameter of the steerer tube, which is probably 1". Then you will need to have some idea of the stack height. The reason for getting the ID of the headtube is so you can get the correct size cups to press into the headtube. For example on mine the headtube is 30mm, the crown race is 27mm and the steerer 25.4mm. Essentially they are the three critical measurements that are usually listed with headsets. Stack heights you will need to work out as well.
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Andrew_Culture
Internet Marketing bod
- Location
- The People's Republic Of Suffolk.
Thank you, I shall grab some vernier callipers tomorrow and set about measuring things!
Scilly Suffolk
Über Member
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Andrew_Culture
Internet Marketing bod
- Location
- The People's Republic Of Suffolk.
So there are hundreds of variants? Phew!
