Tools required to remove a Cassette SRAM PG 850 11-32?

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MBosh

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know the exact tools required to remove a SRAM PG 850 11-32 Cassette? I'm in the UK and a link to these tools would be good. Cheers!
 

netman

Veteran
Same as Shimano cassettes - this will do... https://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-x-tools-cassette-lockring-tool/

You'll need a chain whip as well for removal... https://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-x-tools-chain-whip/
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
I really like the IceToolz one I have because it is deeper than my previous one so can fit over the axle even if it is a bit on the long side for any reason. It also takes a 1/2 inch drive ratchet or long breaker bar in case you need to get serious with a stubborn lockring. It is also good for the lockring on centrelock brake discs.
501102



View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/IceToolz-09C3-Cassette-Lockring-Tool/dp/B0028NANQI
 

Smudge

Veteran
Location
Somerset
Just out of interest and don't wish to hi-jack the op what is the concencous on torquing a cassette amongst the cyclechat members.

Must admit I never have.

Nor me, in fact i never use torque wrenches. I prefer to use feel in how much i tighten anything anything up, rather than have faith in whether a torque wrench is calibrated properly.
 
OP
OP
M

MBosh

Well-Known Member
Last edited:

All uphill

Still rolling along
Location
Somerset
I believe the pin in the middle centres the tool by slotting into the axle where the qr thingy normally goes.

It prevents the tool flying off when force us applied.
 

robgul

Legendary Member
So is it still the right tool I need even with the pin in the middle? Cheers!

Assuming you have a hollow axle (i.e. quick release skewers) then YES. It will also work with the much fatter "thru axle" - although there is a Park Tool with a fatter "pin" that is thru-axle specific. If you have solid axles then the non-pin variety is required. To me the pin isn't necessary and serves no real purpose.

Shimano suggest 40Nm on a torque wrench, although elsewhere in the techdocs they say 29Nm - just get it tight without going mad!

Rob
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Nor me, in fact i never use torque wrenches. I prefer to use feel in how much i tighten anything anything up, rather than have faith in whether a torque wrench is calibrated properly.

I agree, I’ve mis-read a torque wrench before and ended against my own judgement over tightening a disc brake stud on a motorcycle and snapping it, I had to get it drilled out. I now use my common sense and that is that when it’s tight it’s tight.
 
30Nm is plenty. apply a smear of copper grease on threads. The likelihood is the cass is going to be on the hub a long time, so protect against corrosion weld
And make sure the lock ring is perfectly flat against the threads in the freehub when you start to torque it up, if it’s at all askew, you’ll never get it to torque up. Best practice is to use a Torque wrench, however, all you really need to do is tighten the lock ring until the cassette doesn’t have any play in it, then tighten it two more ‘notches’.
 
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