Tools required to remove a Cassette SRAM PG 850 11-32?

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I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
@I like Skol
Is this the same tool I will need and what is the bar sticking out from the middle?
I prefer the type without the centre pin, as it is more versatile and the pin does little to improve engagement.
It is more important to make sure the splines are long enough to fully engage with the lockring and that the internal hollow is deep enough to allow this. Not all axles are the same and nothing is more certain to mash a lockring than a poorly inserted tool being used in anger!
If this should happen the pinless variety gives you a chance to recover the situation by holding the tool tight into the splines with some thin threaded rod (M4?) placed through the centre of the hollow axle and tool and clamping it together with washers and nuts. You can't do this with the pinned type.
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
You can do with the icetoolz one I linked to. I use a 30" breaker bar with mine. I don't need anywhere near that much leverage but why struggle with something smaller when struggling often leads to slipping.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Maybe because a tool designed to manage up to 300Nm will not be sufficiently accurate at the much lower ranges bikes need eg 5-13Nm. Sure it would be fine for a lockring at 40Nm, but it's a hell of a hammer to crack a nut ^_^.
Me - I tighten the lockring and count 6 clicks, for assurance. I've used someone else's torque wrench for this once, and after 6 clicks (on the 12t sprocket / lockring interface) the torque wrench clicked to say 'enough'.
 

robgul

Legendary Member
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-lockout-cassette-lockring-remover-btl12/
The handle on this makes life a lot easier.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip-cassette-remover-id_8309913.html
This is far better than a messy chain type chain whip. You select the hole marked with the number of teeth on your small sprocket, and little metal ‘mushrooms’ engage with the teeth to stop the rotation. It’s cleaner, and easier than a traditional chain type tool.

The wiggle item is fine - but the Decathlon gadget is the work of Satan . . . I had a go with one that a customer had (he brought it into the shop for a second opinion) - after trying it my ripped to pieces knuckles matched his ! It just didn't have enough grip on the sprocket, and even worse if the sprocket was at all worn.

If the lockring is anything like tight you need a fairly long handled chain whip (or a bit of pipe to extend it)

What is quite good is the Park Tool sprocket remover that's like a giant pair of pliers https://www.parktool.com/product/chain-whip-pliers-cp-1 - although it seems to have been discontinued?

Rob
 
The wiggle item is fine - but the Decathlon gadget is the work of Satan . . . I had a go with one that a customer had (he brought it into the shop for a second opinion) - after trying it my ripped to pieces knuckles matched his ! It just didn't have enough grip on the sprocket, and even worse if the sprocket was at all worn.

If the lockring is anything like tight you need a fairly long handled chain whip (or a bit of pipe to extend it)

What is quite good is the Park Tool sprocket remover that's like a giant pair of pliers https://www.parktool.com/product/chain-whip-pliers-cp-1 - although it seems to have been discontinued?

Rob
The trick with the Decathlon whip, is to make sure it remains totally perpendicular to the sprocket. If it wobbles, it can slip. I’ve used it lots of times, I tend to get through chains and cassettes quite readily, it’s one reason why I’m winding the mileage off a lot this year. I get through parts quite often. Rims are another thing one tends to forget about, when doing silly ( ish ) miles. I only have rim braked road bikes, and I do get through a lot of rims, especially at this time of the year.
 
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