Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
billym0404
Active Member
- Location
- durham
i cant help but would be interested in any info you get.
fixedfixer
Veteran
Might not be the correct etiquette to link to another forum, but it was discussed on Bentrideronline (link below).
http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=105117&highlight=Trike+suspension
http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=105117&highlight=Trike+suspension
404 Not Found Anywhere
Über Member
I've done it to my 2006 QNT: I anticipated a major job but had it finished in 40 minutes or so.
It comes (if I recall corrrectly) with the usual very helpful ICE step by step guide. I spoke to them on the phone before ordering and they were (as ever) very helpful.
If you've ever changed a headset you should be entirely comfortable with the process. Basically it involves removing the wheel, unhitching the track rod, dismantling the headset and swapping the new kingpin assembly after swapping the headset bearings for the aheadset ones (if your machine has aheadset bearings you don't even need to do this). Reattach the trackrods, refit the wheel, repeat for the other side. You shouldn't even need to adjust the tracking (but it's a good idea to check it anyway). You don't necessarily need them but a headset remover and a headset press will make the job much easier and reduce the risk of doing any damage. Otherwise the only tools you need are the relevant sizes of Allen keys and spanners.
It's an expensive upgrade but I would do it again. The trike is much more comfortable, I can speed along on narrow Kojaks at 80 psi in the same comfort as I did on Big Apples at 30 psi, but faster and with much better handling. The trike definitely rides better on the worn out rural chipseal we have round here. I had a couple of Moultons before the trike, so needed little convincing of the benefits of suspended small wheels! There is a small weight penalty ( I think about 1 kg) but the improvement on rider comfort is worth it; I also think that reducing overall vibration levels should make the trike last longer.
It comes (if I recall corrrectly) with the usual very helpful ICE step by step guide. I spoke to them on the phone before ordering and they were (as ever) very helpful.
If you've ever changed a headset you should be entirely comfortable with the process. Basically it involves removing the wheel, unhitching the track rod, dismantling the headset and swapping the new kingpin assembly after swapping the headset bearings for the aheadset ones (if your machine has aheadset bearings you don't even need to do this). Reattach the trackrods, refit the wheel, repeat for the other side. You shouldn't even need to adjust the tracking (but it's a good idea to check it anyway). You don't necessarily need them but a headset remover and a headset press will make the job much easier and reduce the risk of doing any damage. Otherwise the only tools you need are the relevant sizes of Allen keys and spanners.
It's an expensive upgrade but I would do it again. The trike is much more comfortable, I can speed along on narrow Kojaks at 80 psi in the same comfort as I did on Big Apples at 30 psi, but faster and with much better handling. The trike definitely rides better on the worn out rural chipseal we have round here. I had a couple of Moultons before the trike, so needed little convincing of the benefits of suspended small wheels! There is a small weight penalty ( I think about 1 kg) but the improvement on rider comfort is worth it; I also think that reducing overall vibration levels should make the trike last longer.
- Location
- Egham
Can't help with the conversion, but my Trice Q (formerly owned by @trikeman of this parish) has the front suspension and is super comfy. Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the front at 90 psi and it's still all very nice.
404 Not Found Anywhere
Über Member
Aheadset bearings are secured at the top by a clamp with a "star fanged nut" that adjusts the tension. The clamp has two 6mm Allen bolts securing it. I suspect you have threaded headsets like mine did, which are shiny silver and have flats on the two top locknuts for adjustment. There is a cap on the top with a single Allen bolt, but in this case it's just to blank off the top of the kingpin tube.
Link to ICE Sprint with aheadset... https://goo.gl/images/Wc37gR
Link to ICE Sprint with aheadset... https://goo.gl/images/Wc37gR
starhawk
Senior Member
- Location
- Bandhagen Sweden
I have a Trice Q from around 2009, I did the upgrade a couple of years ago. The main pain was those bearing cups which had to be knocked out, there is a special tool but no cycle repair shop had it, maybe because it is very expensive. The advise I got from them was to use a tube, in the end a used a different tool as the tubes available to me was to soft. As it was four cups to knock out it took me a couple of days. Pressing the new bearing cups in place was plain easy I used a large screw, four washer and a nut, they just slide in place with no effort to speak of . The rest was just following ICEs instruction and the first testride was bliss, there is a road near home that is a real washing board, not any more, the trike just floated over them! the comfort is just wonderful!
Well I spoke to Patrick at Ice and I now know the cost. However I am also now considering an FB Bracket to move the seat back. not because I have overly long legs but to increase rear wheel traction. I have on occasion lost traction on steep hills and think that this may alleviate the problem. Has anyone any experience of this?
billym0404
Active Member
- Location
- durham
your lucky as i also spoke to Patrick and mines to old 
i also loss traction on steep gravely hills
i also loss traction on steep gravely hills
Tigerbiten
Guru
It's fairly common to loose traction on steep hills if the surface is damp/greasy/gravel/etc.
If your first gear is low enough then it helps as you need less power to climb hills slower, so less torque. I noticed a difference when I dropped my first gear from 12.5" to 9.5".
If you think uphill is bad, then try stopping in the wet after your front brakes have failed. With frozen front cables/calipers your stopping distance suddenly becomes 10x longer.
One of the reasons I use Big Apples on the back of my Sprint is the layer of rubber making up the tread is nice and deep. So there is more to wear away before getting down to the carcass.
I've also stiffened my front suspension up by swapping the medium elastomers
for the hard ones. It makes the trike slightly more stable on the ultra high speeds (+40 mph) descents.
If you do move your seat/front boom backwards, be careful that you've enough room. Otherwise you may get heel strike on the cross members of the frame.
If your first gear is low enough then it helps as you need less power to climb hills slower, so less torque. I noticed a difference when I dropped my first gear from 12.5" to 9.5".
If you think uphill is bad, then try stopping in the wet after your front brakes have failed. With frozen front cables/calipers your stopping distance suddenly becomes 10x longer.
One of the reasons I use Big Apples on the back of my Sprint is the layer of rubber making up the tread is nice and deep. So there is more to wear away before getting down to the carcass.
I've also stiffened my front suspension up by swapping the medium elastomers
for the hard ones. It makes the trike slightly more stable on the ultra high speeds (+40 mph) descents.
If you do move your seat/front boom backwards, be careful that you've enough room. Otherwise you may get heel strike on the cross members of the frame.
Nigelnightmare
Über Member
I have a 2007 QNT with the FB Bracket.
It does help with traction but not as much as I'd like because to have the seat reclined to the same angle the rear boom needs moving out making the wheelbase longer.
EDIT "the rear rack prevents the use of the TT bracket, that's why the rear boom needed extending. With no rear rack use the TT bracket and put more weight over the rear wheel."
The steering is a little lighter and the turning circle slightly larger, all in all worth it in my opinion.
Don't forget to adjust the handlebars back a little or you'll be reaching further forward with your arms. Took me a week to figure it out and get it comfy again.
Last edited:
starhawk
Senior Member
- Location
- Bandhagen Sweden
I'm afraid you are wrong there, it will be less torque on the Bottom Bracket but at the wheel you will have the same torque, the torque needed to push the trike up the hill is still the same. The difference is that you will have to revolve the crank moore, "what you gain in power you loose in distance"
