Trouble removing pedals and crankset

[Venod]

Some pedals only have the Allen key fitting to tighten and remove them, I have just had to destroy a pedal to remove it, the hexagon Allen key hole rounded off, so I removed the crank stripped of the pedal and ground 2 flats on the spindle, I used a hefty 18" adjustable and it only just managed to free it, in fact it broke in the crank and left a piece about 2 mm long which I split in half with a Dremmel to remove it, I cleaned the threads out and another pedal threaded in OK.

 

[Blue Hills]

Some pedals only have the Allen key fitting to tighten and remove them,.

I only learned this recently.

I would never knowingly buy such a thing.

And would recommend same to others.

 

[Blue Hills]

Thanks for liking afnug and taking my post how it was meant - was a tad concerned it might sound a bit ya-boo.

I really can't think of any good reason why any pedals (for non pros) should be made like that.

all the best, glad you sorted it.

another thing I only learned recently - these things can be had for reasonable prices:

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-pro-pedal-tap/rp-prod55945

 

[CXRAndy]

Ive just taken off a tapered crankset with the correct tools. The chain ring side was particularly tight and required a 2' breaker bar on the tool to crack off from the taper. The non drive was easy, a normal spanner would do. tools are very cheap I bought the pair for less than a tenner

Tools I got for taper cranks and cartridge bearings are https://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-cr...TJ9bA2eKD0i6lnb3SfPucaZJggIcupdRoC5XQQAvD_BwE

https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano...HEMCUVDKeHpAULI5_b56Tpt69-6OjisxoC4zMQAvD_BwE

 

[CXRAndy]

Allen key fitted pedals are not a problem, if you remove and apply a good dollop of copper grease and nip tight. You don't need to really tighten the pedal spindle beyond nip because it self tightens when pedalling.

 

[Venod]

Allen key fitted pedals are not a problem, if you remove and apply a good dollop of copper grease and nip tight. You don't need to really tighten the pedal spindle beyond nip because it self tightens when pedalling.

I would agree with this, in all my years of cycling its the only pedal that I have failed to remove with the correct tool, I always use copper grease so I don't know what happened with this one, but as @Blue Hills says there is no good reason to make them this way.

 

[smutchin]

there is no good reason to make them this way.

Agreed, though keeping the threads clean and well greased should make it a non-issue.

 

[EasyPeez]

Thanks for helping out a novice. Getting a proper spanner and teaming it with judicious use of a hammer was definitely the way to go.

I'm a bit simple so I like this way of remembering the directions - cheers.

The way I remember to undo is stay on the chain ring side. Both pedal undo conventional fashion, righty tighty, lefty loosey.

So as others have said apply downward pressure towards the back of bike when working from chainring side

 

[Dogtrousers]

Couple of years ago I had problems with some unshiftable pedals. I was using the right tools, turning the right way, all as above - no luck. Went in to my Local Bike Shop and they did them in about 5 seconds.

I reckon I'd managed to get them just to the point of releasing before I gave up. If only I'd tried just one more time!

 

[Ajax Bay]

apply downward pressure towards the back of bike when working from chainring side

With the spanner pointing backwards, apply force down, on both sides. Don't need to contort to undo left pedal from the right side.

I like this way of remembering the directions

 

[Blue Hills]

There's also the issue of "mechanical advantage" - apologies if already mentioned.

So it helps if for instance you have the (long) spanner just above the crank you are trying to take the pedal off - gives a nice leverage between spanner and crank. Helps if your long pedal spanner has one angled head like my cyclo - helps to arrange this relative positioning.

Best to put the chain on the big ring in case of slips and horrific injuries. Not a bad idea either to wear canvas type gardening gloves.

 

[Leaway2]

I had a hell of a job getting the pedals off my Cannondale. With the cranks off, I ended up using a 15mm spanner and standing on a breaker bar extension, thinking the threads are going to strip at any minute, but they didn't. Phew.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Much easier to get pedals off with cranks in situ. Recommend simple 25cm(ish) long spanner and a hammer in the first instance.

 

[Crankarm]

Before you start leaning on your tools to try loosen the pedals maybe you should try a penetrating oil such as Kano Aero Kroil or failing this some other penetrating oil. The pedal axel is steel and the crank arm (heeeheeeheeee) is likely to be alloy. They were probably assembled dry. Once a year it is a good idea to dismantle and reassemble your bike applying grease or anti-seize paste to crucial fixings such as pedals, BB bearing cups, seat posts and pins, derailleur hangers, etc.

 

[Leaway2]

I tried soaking in penetrating oil, heating, hammer, of course these may have had some effect, but removing them on the bike was a non starter. The force needed meant it was not possible to hold the bike. I tried against a wall but was putting too much stain on the forks/headset.