TRP Hy/Rd Hydraulic cable-actuated brakes?

[Arjimlad]

How much better than TRP Sypres are these?

My Giant Contend AR has Sora cable brifters activating TRP Spyre-lookalikes which are original kit.

I have changed the pads but the back brake is pants. £150 for a set of Hy/Rd calipers seems a reasonable upgrade but I'd be interested in any real world user reviews.

Upgrading the whole groupset, brifters etc to full hydraulic is too costly at the moment.

Thanks

 

[ColinJ]

It's odd that your front brake is ok, but the back brake (with much less work to do) isn't!?

Are you sure that your rotors are clean, the pads uncontaminated, and the brakes properly set up?

Anyway, to answer your question... The old fully cable brakes (not Spyres) on my CAADX were very poor. I replaced the front brake with a Hy/Rd and it made a big difference - the difference between NOT being able to stop on a local 20% descent and being able to stop!

I kept the old brake on the back to save money. It can do enough work to help out but not much more than that!

Having said that... I have BB7 cable disk brakes on my Planet X bike in Devon. They didn't work very well when I first got the bike but I watched a few helpful videos on YouTube which enabled me to fettle them into a good working state. Hy/Rds would be a nice upgrade for that bike but I don't think that I can justify the expense now.

 

[Slick]

How much better than TRP Sypres are these?

My Giant Contend AR has Sora cable brifters activating TRP Spyre-lookalikes which are original kit.

I have changed the pads but the back brake is pants. £150 for a set of Hy/Rd calipers seems a reasonable upgrade but I'd be interested in any real world user reviews.

Upgrading the whole groupset, brifters etc to full hydraulic is too costly at the moment.

Thanks

I know that there are a number of CCers who love these brakes, but I never. I was commuting in all weather at the time but the brakes kept failing on me, until I discovered that there is a small chrome actuating arm that would stick if it wasn't polished to within an inch of its life.

I replaced them as I just couldn't get on with them.

 

[Venod]

I have some, and also some mechanical Spyres not much difference in stopping power the hydraulics need less lever pressure to operate, They replaced cheap Chinese Spyre copies that I put on during Covid when I couldn't source any spiers, I found the copies adequate stoppers but really wanted to try the hydraulics.
The copies are for sale £25 posted if anybody is interested.

 

[si_c]

I really rate the Hy/Rd caliper, works very very well, lots of modulation and power (not as good as full hydraulic, but close). The biggest benefit is that they are self adjusting - like full hydraulic brakes the pads move in as they wear, so you get consistent braking. With the Spyres you occaisionally needed to adjust them to ensure the pads were a consistent distance. They don't brake any better than the Spyres when they are well set up though, and I'm guessing that you have the Tektro MD-C550 which are a budget version of the Spyre (made by the same company), I've not used them but they look serviceable.

My guess with your rear brakes feeling underpowered is it's a setup issue rather than a brake issue, have you tried replacing the existing cables (inner and outer) with some decent cables and some compressionless housing? I'd expect this to make a big difference at the rear if not already using them, but the first thing to try is to make sure that the pad adjuster is wound in so that the pads are sufficiently close to the rotor (as close as you can get them before they rub) on both sides. If they are and the rear brake feels spongy then it's the cable housing.

 

[All uphill]

I can't comment on the TRP hy/rd brakes but can echo the experiences above of the normal TRP Spyre brakes.

I first had these on an Orro and found them adequate, at best, despite changing to softer pads. Then I bought a Spa with the same Spyre brakes, after being reassured by Spa that they would be fine. They are absolutely fine; I can easily control the bike on steep descents with a touring load and lock the rear wheel on the flat, if I choose.

I can only put the difference down to the cables and outers used by Spa.

 

[Arjimlad]

Thanks all. Yes I have Tektro MD-C550. They're just like Spyres in operation. I had Spyres on my old Revolt and got on well with them.

Maybe Giant don't fit compressionless housing because the back one's spongey and can't stop the wheel on the road.

I'll have to take the bar tape off to change it but that'll make sure they are set up right.

Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Anyone fitting cable operated disc brakes (mechanical or hybrid e.g. Spyres or per OP) ought to used compressionless outers for the cables, particularly on the rear. The longer cable run (cf front) with normal brake outers results in a loss of effectiveness early in lever application. I have progressively used this for my rim-braked bikes too. At <£6 per metre the cost difference (cf normal) is small.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/jagwire-compressionless-pro-brake-outer-casing-black-per-meter/

 

[Supersuperleeds]

I hated my cable actuated hydraulic brakes, they were worse than useless. If going hydraulic, full hydraulic is the only way to go in my opinion, well worth the extra cost.

 

[si_c]

I hated my cable actuated hydraulic brakes, they were worse than useless. If going hydraulic, full hydraulic is the only way to go in my opinion, well worth the extra cost.

I'd thoroughly disagree, properly set up, mechanical or cable operated hydraulic brakes are excellent. I had to be careful with the Hy/Rds on my old Felt as if I pulled too hard the rear wheel lifted significantly. Absolutely top quality stopping power, but they were an aftermarket upgrade for me, and I set them up properly with compressionless housing from the start. The big difference for full hydraulics is the mechanical advantage. I can apply a similar level of braking but with less effort - something I find particularly helpful on longer rides as it reduces fatigue. They are worth the extra, but if you have decent quality brakes already, I'd think twice about the upgrade.

Thanks all. Yes I have Tektro MD-C550. They're just like Spyres in operation. I had Spyres on my old Revolt and got on well with them.

Maybe Giant don't fit compressionless housing because the back one's spongey and can't stop the wheel on the road.

I'll have to take the bar tape off to change it but that'll make sure they are set up right.

Thanks for all the advice.

Sounds like you may have hit the nail on the head. Spongy feeling sounds like it's the housing, as @Ajax Bay notes there is a significant run of housing which compresses before action, giving that feeling. I'm suprised that Giant don't fit compressionless housing, but maybe I shouldn't be. It's frankly just lazy and unnecessarily cheap.

Get some decent outers - Jagwire are excellent, if slightly pricey - they'll last long enough if you're doing a full run to the back it's worth it, and then set everything up properly yourself. I'd expect much better braking as a result - the front is always going to have a little less grab than the front with cables due to the extra distance - but it shouldn't be spongey as you note..

 

[All uphill]

I'd thoroughly disagree, properly set up, mechanical or cable operated hydraulic brakes are excellent. I had to be careful with the Hy/Rds on my old Felt as if I pulled too hard the rear wheel lifted significantly. Absolutely top quality stopping power, but they were an aftermarket upgrade for me, and I set them up properly with compressionless housing from the start. The big difference for full hydraulics is the mechanical advantage. I can apply a similar level of braking but with less effort - something I find particularly helpful on longer rides as it reduces fatigue. They are worth the extra, but if you have decent quality brakes already, I'd think twice about the upgrade.


Sounds like you may have hit the nail on the head. Spongy feeling sounds like it's the housing, as @Ajax Bay notes there is a significant run of housing which compresses before action, giving that feeling. I'm suprised that Giant don't fit compressionless housing, but maybe I shouldn't be. It's frankly just lazy and unnecessarily cheap.

Get some decent outers - Jagwire are excellent, if slightly pricey - they'll last long enough if you're doing a full run to the back it's worth it, and then set everything up properly yourself. I'd expect much better braking as a result - the front is always going to have a little less grab than the front with cables due to the extra distance - but it shouldn't be spongey as you note..

Agreed.

Just a warning, not everything sold online as Jagwire compressionless is genuine. When I built my Temple bike recently I was delighted to find fancy "jagwire" outers at a good price online. They were as much use as old inner tubes.