Upgrade for Cannondale Caadx Tektro brakes

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choddo

Well-Known Member
How do you fix the cable to drop down on the pull side of the V brakes instead of the centre on the cantis?
 

jdtate101

Ex-Fatman
How do you fix the cable to drop down on the pull side of the V brakes instead of the centre on the cantis?
There was 3 things I ended up having to do:

1) Release a bit more cable run to the straddle junction so it was physically lower.

2) Reduce the amount of cable in the cross cable via the end clamp (you also have to undo the small nuts in the cross piece to do this. It's also worth centring the cable by feel to avoid brake rub.....

3) Tighten the spring tension screws on the brake arms to max to keep the pads away from the rims.

With canti's it's very much a trial and error process and they do need constant adjustment as the pads wear, but the braking performance is greatly increased over the stock setup.
 

SpokeyDokey

67, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
There was 3 things I ended up having to do:

1) Release a bit more cable run to the straddle junction so it was physically lower.

2) Reduce the amount of cable in the cross cable via the end clamp (you also have to undo the small nuts in the cross piece to do this. It's also worth centring the cable by feel to avoid brake rub.....

3) Tighten the spring tension screws on the brake arms to max to keep the pads away from the rims.

With canti's it's very much a trial and error process and they do need constant adjustment as the pads wear, but the braking performance is greatly increased over the stock setup.

Are you both talking about the same thing here?
 

choddo

Well-Known Member
No :biggrin: but I did know what he meant - he's talking about if I wanted to reduce the straddle cable length.
 

SpokeyDokey

67, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
How do you fix the cable to drop down on the pull side of the V brakes instead of the centre on the cantis?

The canti' hangers are redundant. Remove both if you want/can.

Then re-cable from scratch - no hangers involved.

Front cable will go direct from lever to brake.

Rear cable will run from the rear stop on the top tube (I think that is how a CAADX runs) straight to the brake.

Brakes will be supplied with noodles so that the cables run into the brakes smoothly.

If you have interrupters they will have adjusters to trim the brakes. If not either put some inline or the TRP's now come with adjusters on the noodles as standard.
 
U

User6179

Guest
Changeing the pads and adjusting them right made the braking ok on my caadx, I think the rims dont help and if I was going to spend money now on improving the braking the wheels are where I would start.
 

jdtate101

Ex-Fatman
Changeing the pads and adjusting them right made the braking ok on my caadx, I think the rims dont help and if I was going to spend money now on improving the braking the wheels are where I would start.

I also found the braking much improved with different wheels. I changed mine because the formula hub on the rear ceased solid after a cross race, all the bearings shattered and after a bit of research it would cost about the same for a new wheel as to buy a new hub and re-lace. I got some RS10's which have been both strong and durable (I already had a spare rear RS10 as a turbo trainer wheel, so just needed to buy a front one.)
 
U

User6179

Guest
I also found the braking much improved with different wheels. I changed mine because the formula hub on the rear ceased solid after a cross race, all the bearings shattered and after a bit of research it would cost about the same for a new wheel as to buy a new hub and re-lace. I got some RS10's which have been both strong and durable (I already had a spare rear RS10 as a turbo trainer wheel, so just needed to buy a front one.)

The wheels are terrible , snapped 4 spokes and constantly trueing them ,they should not have 34c tyre on them either as the rim is to narrow , will be getting a new set of wheels myself shortly .
 

choddo

Well-Known Member
The wheels are terrible , snapped 4 spokes and constantly trueing them ,they should not have 34c tyre on them either as the rim is to narrow , will be getting a new set of wheels myself shortly .
The 2013 has got 35s on them! And they do say they'll go down to 23. I thought that was a bit of an extreme range.
 
U

User6179

Guest
The 2013 has got 35s on them! And they do say they'll go down to 23. I thought that was a bit of an extreme range.

Might of been 35s on mine ,they will take a 23 as they are narrower than my fulcrum 5s .
 

jdtate101

Ex-Fatman
The wheels are terrible , snapped 4 spokes and constantly trueing them ,they should not have 34c tyre on them either as the rim is to narrow , will be getting a new set of wheels myself shortly .

Yeah, I think I broke about 6 spokes before the hub gave in. It was always at the nipple end, sometimes event the nipple itself would fail. Despite them being 32h, as soon as one spoke went the wheel would go far out of true making it practically unrideable. God help you if it happened far from home.
 
U

User6179

Guest
Yeah, I think I broke about 6 spokes before the hub gave in. It was always at the nipple end, sometimes event the nipple itself would fail. Despite them being 32h, as soon as one spoke went the wheel would go far out of true making it practically unrideable. God help you if it happened far from home.

Mine all snapped at the hub on non drive side and i had put 25c tyres on so even though one time I was 30 miles from home the clearance with the 25c tyre ment I could cycle home no problem.
 

BORIS397

Active Member
I've got a CAADX6 and the tektro 520's and yes they aren't great, but I recently put some Clarkes pads on them (triple compound) and they are much improved. I have also tweaked the straddle wire lower to provide more mechanical force. They are no-where near as good as callipers, but vastly improved over the situation when they came new.

Hiya people a newbie CaadX (2010) owner here - I'm having loads of trouble stopping with stock Tektro CR720 cantis... I was interested to see if anyone had any better recommmendations of pads cos the standard 420.11 cartridge pads are rubbish. What are these Clarkes pads you recommend?.. are they 55mm like the Tektros? Or are they like those on wiggle listed as 72mm. Thank you. This is darn confusing as there are several Tektro canti's about e.g. new CaadX's have CR710 on them.
Cheers
Simon
PS I have Duraace 1380 wheels (alu rim, carbon elsewhere) if that makes any difference. I am going like the clappers at the moment and can't stop!
PPS Heard a few mention Koolstop but which ones? I'd like the best stoppers poss.
 
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