Upgrade for Cannondale Caadx Tektro brakes

[Pedrosanchezo]

Hi folks,

Own a Cannondale Caadx 2012. Bike came with Tektro canti's and to be honest the brakes don't inspire at 10mph let alone when i am approaching the 40mph mark on downhills. Time for an upgrade for the front brake at least anyway. Here is the bike spec from manufacturer:

http://www.cannondale.com/2012-caadx-5-105-21567

Background:
I am running the bike as a roadie at the moment. Dropped the bars, changed out the rear cassette for Ultegra 11-28 for a bit more top end, fitted RS-30's with Pasella tourguards and find the bike pretty much flies. The problem though is stopping.

Anything in the Shimano range?? Also if a bike has canti's do you have to stick with that type of brake or can you use something like a Shimano calliper like the ultegra or r650 57mm??

Thanks in advance.

 

[Aushiker]

I have a Surly Long Haul Trucker which came with Tektro 992 “Oryx” brakes.

I am currently in the process of upgrading them to Avid Single Digit 7 v-brakes with Koolstop pads and Cane Creek SCR-5 levers so cannot comment on Shimano options. I am still working on the conversion so haven't put them to the test but from all my research I believe I have made the right decision.

Andrew

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

Hi Aushiker,

Thanks for the reply. The caadx comes stock with Tektro c710. It takes some serious hand power to stop at speed. The brakes are below.

http://www.cannondale.com/2012-caadx-5-105-21567

I thought of just replacing the pads with koolstop salmons or the likes but i am not overly impressed with the brakes themselves. They started off with buckets of squeal so i toed them in. That fixed the noise and helped stopping power slightly too. TBH they just appear flimsy to me.

I have Shimano 105 5700 shifters/brake levers so everything is good there. Just need to upgrade the rim brakes. Even if just on the front to start with. Question is do i have to use canti's or do i have other options??

All thoughts welcome guys. Cheers.......

 

[SpokeyDokey]

V-brakes?

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

V-brakes?

What would i need to replace spokey dokey?? Is it a simple case of using the brake cables as is and fitting the correct v brakes for the bike? Apologies, i am not overly brake savy.

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

actually just quickly looked up this very question (canti's for v brakes) and folk saying you would need to replace the levers too. Was hoping to keep everything the same on the bars.

 

[Andrew_P]

Not sure these would work? Looks like itmight still be a stretch http://www.cyclepremier.com/product...y=GBP&stdSID=73cc11943e5a594b68a429cdea829494

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

Not sure these would work? Looks like itmight still be a stretch http://www.cyclepremier.com/product...y=GBP&stdSID=73cc11943e5a594b68a429cdea829494

Loco, are these just a straight swap over the canti's?? I notice the calipers have one side connection for the brake cable as opposed to the centre connection on the canti's. How would one fit this?? Thanks.

Ps, I thought these would be do able also. Do you know if they would fit okay considering i run 28 tires? Would also like to run the 35's in winter/off road but if this makes for a problem them wouldn't mind.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...le&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom

 

[lulubel]

Side pull callipers and traditional cantis attach to the frame differently. The cantis attach either side of the wheel below the braking surface, the callipers attach on one centre mount above the wheel. It is possible to use v-brakes with road levers, but you need an adaptor that fits inline on the cable and adjusts the amount of cable pull. I read up on this a lot before building my Surly Cross Check, and came to the conclusion that it wouldn't offer any benefits over standard cantis.

I was told when I put cantis on my bike that the straddle cable should be as short as possible to give the best braking leverage, so if your brakes are set up the same as in Aushiker's photo, that might explain why you're not getting a lot of braking power.

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

Side pull callipers and traditional cantis attach to the frame differently. The cantis attach either side of the wheel below the braking surface, the callipers attach on one centre mount above the wheel. It is possible to use v-brakes with road levers, but you need an adaptor that fits inline on the cable and adjusts the amount of cable pull. I read up on this a lot before building my Surly Cross Check, and came to the conclusion that it wouldn't offer any benefits over standard cantis.

I was told when I put cantis on my bike that the straddle cable should be as short as possible to give the best braking leverage, so if your brakes are set up the same as in Aushiker's photo, that might explain why you're not getting a lot of braking power.

Lulubel, so i imagine the best idea is to try a better brake pad to start with? Toeing in made a rather sizeable difference to the immediate stopping power but it feels like the surface doesn't create enough friction to slow the bike down. I assume this could be caused by naff stock brake pads. Maybe the best option then if i can't fit V's or calipers without mods.

I am a little perplexed regrading the "straddle cable" being too long. As far as i can see Aushiker's set up has the straddle cable fairly tight. How could this be bettered?? I have tweaked the brakes and improved them but i am unsure as to what you mean here. Defo up for trying anything that could help. That and new pads would be an easy fix. ;-) Thanks.

 

[Davidc]

My Dawes Horizon came with Tektro cantis, which I'd have to say were better than steel rims in the wet. Replacing the pads with Kool Stop dual compound ones (here) has greatly improved them.

They're still less effective than I'd like though, and I have seriously considered changing to dual pivot Shimano R650 or SRAM Rival caliper brakes. They'd fit, but I'd be left with the cantilever mountings. V brakes and drop bar STIs unfortunately don't mix.

If I come up with a real solution I'll post it on here!

What I'd really like to be able to do is change over to disc brakes.

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

My Dawes Horizon came with Tektro cantis, which I'd have to say were better than steel rims in the wet. Replacing the pads with Kool Stop dual compound ones (here) has greatly improved them.

They're still less effective than I'd like though, and I have seriously considered changing to dual pivot Shimano R650 or SRAM Rival caliper brakes. They'd fit, but I'd be left with the cantilever mountings. V brakes and drop bar STIs unfortunately don't mix.

If I come up with a real solution I'll post it on here!

What I'd really like to be able to do is change over to disc brakes.

Beginning to think that there is not easy solution. ;-)
Keep me posted with any bright eurika moments then, thanks.

Maybe upgrading the cantilevers and brake pads would make a marked difference. Something a bit more proven like...

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/brr550-cantilever-brake-ec006280

Relatively cheap upgrade but would it make for a better braking system compared to the stock Tektro? I have it adjusted pretty well i think with it pretty well tensioned and plenty of bite when the brakes are applied. Brakes just don't seem to have the power to stop the bike. In fact it had horrible front brake judder from new. That's fixed now though:-/

 

[lulubel]

I am a little perplexed regrading the "straddle cable" being too long. As far as i can see Aushiker's set up has the straddle cable fairly tight. How could this be bettered?? I have tweaked the brakes and improved them but i am unsure as to what you mean here. Defo up for trying anything that could help. That and new pads would be an easy fix. ;-) Thanks.

I've set mine up with the main brake cable longer, so the straddle cable runs straighter and sits closer to the top of the tyre (and so is shorter). Mine is about 2-3cm from the tyre. I think this improves leverage because it takes less pull on the main cable to take in enough straddle cable to bring the pads against the rims, and presumably you don't have to squeeze the levers so hard to apply pressure. Hopefully that makes sense. (I can't take photos at the moment, or I'd take one to show you.)

My brakes are OK. They're not as snappy as the Vs on my MTB, but I don't think they're any worse than the callipers on my old road bike. Of course, this could be helped by the fact that I only weigh 7st5, so there isn't much weight to stop.

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

I've set mine up with the main brake cable longer, so the straddle cable runs straighter and sits closer to the top of the tyre (and so is shorter). Mine is about 2-3cm from the tyre. I think this improves leverage because it takes less pull on the main cable to take in enough straddle cable to bring the pads against the rims, and presumably you don't have to squeeze the levers so hard to apply pressure. Hopefully that makes sense. (I can't take photos at the moment, or I'd take one to show you.)

My brakes are OK. They're not as snappy as the Vs on my MTB, but I don't think they're any worse than the callipers on my old road bike. Of course, this could be helped by the fact that I only weigh 7st5, so there isn't much weight to stop.

I think in know what you mean Lulubel. I'll give a try. I do have the brakes set pretty well just now with minimum play at the levers. Any pull at all and you are moving the brakes. I gather this can only be improved by shortening the straddle cable. I assume you end up with more cable hanging loose at the side of the brakes?? Am i on the right frame of mind here?

 

[lulubel]

I assume you end up with more cable hanging loose at the side of the brakes?? Am i on the right frame of mind here?

Yes. And once you've got them how you want them, and you're sure you want want a longer cable again, you cut the end off the straddle cable, and put a new crimp thingy on it.