upgrading!!!

[robsy]

I have never done anything THAT technical with my bikes until now and I find that i am well out of touch.
I wish to upgrade my 15 yr old bike. It has a Reynolds 500 frame. It has a bipoace cranksetset which i would like to ditch but dont know if i need a different BB and what is an Octalink anyway? Apart form that i would like upgrade the wheels. At the moment it is 7 speed. Can i simply go for an 8 speed hub?
Finally, if i go for new caliper brakes will there be an issue with fitting them? I think i already know the answer to that one however.
Thanks for any useful help. I live in Germany now and i would like to be sure that i am getting the right advice.
Cheers
Robsy

 

[PpPete]

Whole row of cans of worms there !
You are looking at upgrading the entire drive train and wheels - probably more cost effective to buy a new bike, unless you are fanatical about keeping that frame.
But - if you want to try it, I'm the last person in the world to try & dissuade you.
Post pictures of the bike and detail of the components you want to replace, tell us what gear ratios you want, what use you will put the bike to and there's plenty on here that can help with detailed advice about selection & fitting of each component.

Oh yes -

 

[robsy]

thanks for the reply. Can't get any pics up so quickly but in terms of ratios i would like a 53-39 and 13-23/25. OK, maybe i can keep the biopace chainset. But how does it work at the rear in regards to upgrading my 7 speed cassette to an 8 speed with a new hub and wheel? I have downtube shifters, don't know if they can take 8 speed or not.
A new bike would be at least 500 and thats way too much for me. Its pretty hilly round here so i want to lighten the bike and make it more responsive (hence the wheel change) and perhaps give me a slightly lower gear ratio.
thanks

 

[fossyant]

1. You can fit new chain rings - should be 130 BCD Shimano - only the rings were egg shaped....

2. New wheels - again yes..... just buy a new 8 speed cassette as well, and ditch the 8th sprocket (3mm spacers work fine - 7 speed is 3.1mm, but I use 3mm 8 speed spacers on two of my 7 speed bikes, on 8-10 speed hubs). To get the 7 speed cassette to work, you'll need to use the 3mm spacer on first - i.e. next to the spokes. There is also a chance you'll need an additional 1mm spacer (with the 3mm spacer) or even two 3mm spacers - depends upon the hub.

Your brakes should be fine - both my road bikes are over 15 years old and will take new calliper brakes - just watch/check the frame clearance as you may need longer drop callipers - e.g. is it a race or touring type frame. Race indicates the tyres are close to the frame near the brakes.

PS get a new chain to go with the rear cassette and chain rings. Cost - Chain rings - £40 approx or more, cassette £15-£20, chain £10-£15. 8 speed stuff works fine.

Also you may need a small allen key to undo the 3 bolts that hold the cassette sprocket's together - it's about 2-3mm.

 

[PpPete]

Sheldon says if you use only 8 of the sprockets on a 9 speed cassette it will fit a 7 speed hub - although you will need a 9 speed chain.
But if you are changing the wheels anyway - get a 9 speed hub. If you can use friction mode on your downtube shifters, they'll be just fine. Or you occasionally see 9 speed DA downtube shifters on ebay.

 

[robsy]

does it matter which of the sprockets i remove? I guess not but unsure.
on a slightly different note, when choosing a crankset i see that some advertise themselves to be 10 speed and so on. Exactly how is this relevent to the front of the drivetrain?

 

[SimonC]

Not too sure about PCD being 130mm on biopace, I had a triple biopace, and I'm pretty sure it wasnt 130mm, maybe cos it was a triple on an MTB. I am pretty sure it was a piece of s*** though, and it went to the tip. Those oval chainrings are a waste of time.

 

[swee'pea99]

If I were you, I wouldn't bother changing the 7 to an 8. It's quite a lot of hassle and expense for a pretty marginal benefit.

Why are you proposing to change the brakes? Are they not working? I mean, to answer your specific question, there's unlikely to be an issue, but why do you want to? If your braking isn't as good as you'd like, maybe try some different blocks: I use Aztec, many swear by Kool Stop...either way, good blocks make a big difference.

If you want to upgrade, I'd concentrate all your efforts thought & money on your wheels. Better wheels & better tyres: that's what makes the difference.

 

[Alf]

15 years. Doesn't that go back to before the widening of the rear wheels? If it is an old frame, you will be forcing a new hub into the dropouts. The old ones were 126mm apart and the new ones are 130mm. You can re-set the frame but it takes a lot of brute force! If it is Reynolds 500, you will probably get away with just forcing the dropouts apart every time to put the wheel in but it's not very convenient.

On the other hand you may have a 130 frame anyway. It's easy to check, just take the rear wheel out and measure the distance between the dropouts as accurately as you can.

Alf

 

[peanut]

I would buy a cheap new wheelset . There are plenty of new wheelsets around for £40-£45 then you'll have a 10 speed freehub which will take 7,8,9 or 10 speed cassette. Heres a really cheap rear wheel £26.00
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/700c-Alloy-Q-R-Hybrid-Bike-REAR-Wheel-Shimano-8-Freehub_W0QQitemZ290279073521QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item4395fb26f1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A15|66%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

7 speed cassette spacer £2.00
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=SHIMCASZ200000000000

11-28t 7spd cassette £7.00
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=SHIMCASM100

new chain £5.00
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=SRAMCHAI600000000000

Brake calipers are standard fitting these would do and almost as cheap as brake pads
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=SHIMBRAR410000000000

Chainset should bolt straight onto your existing square taper axles
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=SHIMCHAR490

Suggest you strip ,grease and fit some new bearings in your bottom bracket unless you decide to fit new.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=CAMPBTBR550



15 years isn't all that long ago. My Ribble 653 frame has 130mm dropouts but as Alf says if yours are 126mm just force the stays apart 4mm to put the rear wheel in

 

[Renard]

You can get cable stops that will fit the mountings on the downtube which gives you the option of STI's. Only thing is STI's aren't exactly cheap these days.

 

[threebikesmcginty]

If you do need to widen the rear dropouts it's quite easy, I did it. Sheldon has a section on this too. I didn't use a piece of timber just gentle arm muscle. Flip the frame to even it out and the you can force the hub in for the last mm or two.
I found it best to have a bottle of beer beforehand - steady the nerves!
And to echo swee'pea, get the best wheels you can.
Don't replace anything for the sake of it because, cost wise, you'll soon get to the price of a good second hand bike - new stuff is pricey!

 

[peanut]

And to echo swee'pea, get the best wheels you can.

I'm not sure thats good advice actually.

What price do you pay for a 'good' set of wheels?
what would you suggest as a 'good' set of wheels ?

Little point in spending £100+ on some wheels if all the other stuff needs replacing too.

Then you might as well buy 'good' quality brakes ,cassette, chain, chainset, etc etc where does it end ?

Like you say you'll soon have budgeted more than the price of a new bike.

All the OP needs is a budget set of wheels of an equivalent quality to the frame and other componentry. Anything more would be a waste imo

 

[threebikesmcginty]

Only said get the best you can!

 

[peanut]

Only said get the best you can!

fair enough but its a bit of an open ended statement and not terribly constructive.