using TT bars give me sore nuts...

[jifdave]

i dont mean to be crude but every time i spend any time on the clip ons i get sore crackers...

on rare occasions i've erm.... peeled the banana a little.... i havent rode a TT race yet but i need to find a solution before i do....

any advice?

 

[Mr Haematocrit]

i dont mean to be crude but every time i spend any time on the clip ons i get sore crackers....

any advice?

Stop sitting on the wrong end of the bike, the clip ons are for your hands.. hth

 

[Hacienda71]

You are pitched further forward with tri bars on so you are on the nose aka rivet of the saddle and it isn't going to be comfortable, you can adjust the seat height and position a bit but if you are doing a 10 though it is only for half an hour or less. A lot of TT riders have seats specific to TTing with more padding on the nose of the saddle on their dedicated bikes.

 

[montage]

When tting you are pushing a bigger gear than normal, So you have a lot less weight on your banana. You may find you don't notice it at all for a 10. I would try and find a saddle with a wide padded nose for club tens, you can pick them up pretty cheap!

 

[Sharky]

Is your saddle comfortable when sitting up holding the hoods?
If it is, then because your whole body is rotated forward, the angle you are on the saddle might just need tweaking and the saddle nose tipped down a degree. But not too much that you start sliding forward.

Rotating forward and sitting more on the nose of the saddle, also makes the effective height of the saddle a little lower, so the saddle might need raising to compensate. All trial & error and it is good justification for your N+1 to get a decent position on a dedicated time trial bike without upsetting a comfortable position you have on your normal road bike.

Cheers
Keith

 

[Mr Bunbury]

As has been said:

Saddle forwards a bit
Saddle up a bit
Nose tilted down a bit
Possibly get a different saddle with more padding on the nose (doesn't have to be TT specific - quite a few people use MTB saddles for this purpose.)

If you can't quite justify n+1 but want to keep your current position, get a new saddle and seatpost, set one of your saddles up for road and one for TT and mark the insertion points on the posts with tape so you can swap them over quickly.

A lot of it is also getting used to it. With time you'll achieve better lower back flexibility so your weight is further back, and you'll learn to hold your position without putting so much weight on the saddle.

 

[Joshua Plumtree]

Are they clip-ons? You've obviously tightened the screw too much.

 

[oldroadman]

Don't forget that Sudacrem is your friend. Good as a lot of the expensive "chamois" creams on the market, relatively cheap. Slather plenty on to keep the unwanted friction zeroed.

 

[PpPete]

Don't forget that Sudacrem is your friend. Good as a lot of the expensive "chamois" creams on the market, relatively cheap. Slather plenty on to keep the unwanted friction zeroed.

And once the friction is reduced you can carefully arrange one crown jewel on each side...

 

[Cuchilo]

There's a lot more to this TT'ing than I thought !

 

[Hacienda71]

And once the friction is reduced you can carefully arrange one crown jewel on each side...

Nah, make sure you adjust to the left and this offsets the weight of the chain rings and mechs on the bike.....

 

[Cuchilo]

Nah, make sure you adjust to the left and this offsets the weight of the chain rings and mechs on the bike.....

Is there any aero advantage in that ?

 

[Ian H]

You can rotate your whole body forward by moving the saddle forwards.

 

[montage]

Nah, make sure you adjust to the left and this offsets the weight of the chain rings and mechs on the bike.....

Dear god no.... having your danglies trapped between thigh and saddle is not pleasant on any level!

 

[Joshua Plumtree]

Is this thread stiill cycling related?