Wet Lube clean up

[nlmkiii]

Just to follow on from this

I purchased some muc off dry lube as I tend to really only go out when it’s dry and also wanted to see if it kept my chain cleaner.

I’ve been cleaning and re lubing the chain after every ride, it’s been a couple weeks since I’ve been out as weather up here has been horrendous, I went out yesterday however after around 15 miles I could hear the chain was very dry?

I’m guessing the dry lube had dried up in the time since I lubed and going out yesterday?

Have read a few reviews saying it doesn’t last well at all?

I'm a bit obsessive about drive train cleanliness and efficiency, but I'm going to try and recommend something much more reasonable for the every day rider! I wouldn't suggest going out waxing until you get a similar level of obsession... but... there are some really good drip lubes out there that could offer a better solution than what you are currently doing.

Highly recommend switching to Squirt lube, or Silca Secret Chain Lube! If you use a good lube and ensure it penetrates well with an effective application then you won't have as much dirt ingress, as it physically won't be able to get in to cause problems. As others have said, once lubed make sure you clean the excess lube off the outside of the chain too. It doesn't add any lubricating benefits, and just attracts dirt which can then ingress in to where it really matters.

Also just to be anal, make sure you're cleaning your chain effectively. You don't have to give it a deep clean after every ride though, just a quick wipe down. But taking it off and cleaning it using the shaker bottle method every now and then is a very good idea.

Why Squirt / Silca Secret Chain Lube?
Squirt lube is the most commonly recommended (Olly Bridgewood even recommended it on GCN after he was no longer allowed to recommend it on GCN because of sponsorship issues!). It's also relatively cheap compared to other good lubes. Spend longer applying it than other lubes though,
Silca Secret Chain lube is better because of the titanium disulphide additive, but you'll be fine with both.

You can go super expensive with lubes, and they are better (and some like Synergetic by Silca are more about ease of application than being better), but perhaps not necessary right now

 

[CanucksTraveller]

Just to follow on from this

I purchased some muc off dry lube as I tend to really only go out when it’s dry and also wanted to see if it kept my chain cleaner.

I’ve been cleaning and re lubing the chain after every ride, it’s been a couple weeks since I’ve been out as weather up here has been horrendous, I went out yesterday however after around 15 miles I could hear the chain was very dry?

I’m guessing the dry lube had dried up in the time since I lubed and going out yesterday?

Have read a few reviews saying it doesn’t last well at all?

Hi. Just to clear up a potential misunderstanding, dry lube isn't specifically for dry weather, it's just got a drier consistency than "wet" lube which is where the name comes in. Both are fine for wet weather. Dry lube is just more like a wax coating when it sets.

Personally I find dry lube a bit icky / messy but plenty of riders like it. Maybe you just used a not so good one, but not being a fan I'm not sure which makes are the better ones. It's possible it dried out a bit in the last few weeks I guess, I don't find that's an issue with wet lube / oil.

 

[Alex321]

Just to follow on from this

I purchased some muc off dry lube as I tend to really only go out when it’s dry and also wanted to see if it kept my chain cleaner.

I’ve been cleaning and re lubing the chain after every ride, it’s been a couple weeks since I’ve been out as weather up here has been horrendous, I went out yesterday however after around 15 miles I could hear the chain was very dry?

I’m guessing the dry lube had dried up in the time since I lubed and going out yesterday?

Have read a few reviews saying it doesn’t last well at all?

No, it won't have dried out during that period.

But it will wash off very quickly when riding in the wet - even if it isn't raining, it won't last all that long on wet roads.

The dry lube should keep the chain cleaner in dry weather, because it isn't as sticky, but it is that lack of stickyness that also means it washes off more easily. "Wet" or "dry" lube isn't a reference to whether the lube itself is wet or dry, but rather a reference to the intended conditions for use.

 

[MichaelW2]

Keep WD40 spray away from bearings at the bottom bracket and hubs and also awsy from braking surfaces and pads.
Any solvent on a rag will clean the mess. Best to apply lube to the inside of the chain run, one drop on each articulating join.

 

[nlmkiii]

View: https://youtu.be/qrO7TtJpcn0


Watch this guys video if you want a simple idea of why a wax based lube is so good. I'm not sure I agree with him about never giving the chain a full deep clean! But as long as you're keeping on top of wear and replacing when you need to it probably isn't a big issue.

Just, when using a wax based lube, make sure you put a lot of time into making sure the lubricant penetrates deep, particularly the first time. I think a lot of people see lubing the chain as a 30 second job. which it can be. But to do it properly with a wax based lube I would suggest takes more like 10 minutes. Dripping both left and right side of the chain individually, turning the wheels a good amount to make sure it works it's way in, and then spending a solid amount of time cleaning off the excess.

 

[DaveM77]

Baby wipes or Banana milkshake. Used to work a great cleaning my Mini

 

[DRM]

Just to follow on from this

I purchased some muc off dry lube as I tend to really only go out when it’s dry and also wanted to see if it kept my chain cleaner.

I’ve been cleaning and re lubing the chain after every ride, it’s been a couple weeks since I’ve been out as weather up here has been horrendous, I went out yesterday however after around 15 miles I could hear the chain was very dry?

I’m guessing the dry lube had dried up in the time since I lubed and going out yesterday?

Have read a few reviews saying it doesn’t last well at all?

Dry lube is hopeless in wet weather, it just washes off, wet lube is what’s needed, dry lube is perfect for use in dry, dusty conditions as the dirt can’t stick to it to make grinding paste

 

[nlmkiii]

Dry lube is hopeless in wet weather, it just washes off, wet lube is what’s needed, dry lube is perfect for use in dry, dusty conditions as the dirt can’t stick to it to make grinding paste

Zero Friction cycling suggest that Dry Lubes are basically all complete garbage.

This is not the same as a wax lube which leaves a solid residue, which are rated very highly.

Take a look at this video, it's a very good entry in to it (and an entry in to why I would suggest Silca Secret Chain Lube! Or Squirt if you want to go for a cheaper option)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OA9xTnCizuA

 

[freiston]

FWIW, I don't worry about my chain much at all. I don't consider myself to be knowledgeable on the "science" but I do believe you can get very carried away with cleaning regimes and that a lot of people, using their bikes in all weather/conditions reach a good balance between doing nothing and being obsessive. What I say is my opinion and might have been said before, including in this thread (and probably refuted before too).

Wet mucky roads will get your chain mucky. Dry dusty roads will get your chain mucky. A clean chain that's got very wet stands a good chance of rusting when you put the bike away and leave it overnight. A mucky chain will wear out and wear cogs out more quickly than a clean chain. Mucky sprockets will contaminate a chain and vice versa.

The lube needs to be in the rollers to do its job. It doesn't need to be on the plates. Lube on the plates helps attract muck. When you oil a chain, you just need a drop on each roller. Let it work in then give the chain a good wipe with a rag to get excess lube off the plates. This has been covered earlier in the thread and with reference to the "Mickle method". Personally, I don't reckon this needs doing that often (certainly not after every ride) but I'm sure that many will disagree.

A regular wipe will help keep the chain clean. A spray of WD40/GT85 on a rag/the chain will help keep it clean but might clean the oil off too - so a re-oil afterwards can help.

If you get a "wet" chain, either from the rain or from the hose/bucket, do whatever you think will shake as much water off as possible, give it a spray (on the rag or directly) with WD40/GT85 and give it a good wipe. Oil it if you think it needs it.

If you think your chain is getting too grubby to be "cleaned" as per above, take it off and give it a going over with degreaser and an old toothbrush, rinse well (presuming you've used a water based degreaser), treat it with WD40/GT85, rag well and put it back on the bike and oil it (or miss out the WD40/GT85, get it as dry as possible and put it on the bike & oil asap).

The oil I use isn't sold any more but if I were to buy some today, it would be Weldtite TF2 Performance All-Weather Lubricant - it gets good reviews including on forums.

Remember to clean your sprockets (including those in the derailleur arm) too.

That should keep your chain reasonably clean and in good condition without it becoming a massive chore, worry or an activity in its own right. It shouldn't make a mess of your frame either.

 

[GuyBoden]

Get a pan, a few medium size wax candles.
Melt the candles in the pan.
Make sure the candles are completely melted.
Add a bit of oil. (Light general purpose oil will do, car gear oil is better.)
Gently stir the mixture.
Drop the chain into the pan. (A new chain is best.)
Leave until the chain is soaked through with the wax/oil liquid.
The wax/oil liquid easily ignites in the pan.
This fire will eventually spread to the whole kitchen.
Phone the Fire Brigade.
Explain to the Police how the fire started.
Inform your house insurance agent about the incident.
House insurance blame you for stupidity and avoid paying any insurance, if they can.

 

[Tenkaykev]

I tend to use Wilko wet lube and the “ Mickle Method” I’ve got a cheap and cheerful ultrasonic cleaner that I’ve used to deep clean the occasional chain. Before I retired the job I did sometimes involved using a vacuum impregnation chamber for applying varnish to the windings of electric motors. The motor is put in the chamber, switch on vac pump to evacuate all the air and create a vacuum, then open a valve to a container with varnish that becomes an aerosol and impregnates all the voids in the windings.
Out of curiosity I looked on Amazon and sure enough, you can buy a small vacuum system that would be suitable for bike chains if you substitute oil for varnish. Completely over the top but doable if you want to ensure the lubricant gets to where it’s needed.

 

[MichaelW2]

For chain obsessives, a useful strategy is to run 2 chains. Switch your dirty chain for a clean one. Put the dirty chain into a jar of some cleaning fluid. Clean at your leisure
You need a reusable quick link.

 

[Gillstay]

I just use chainsaw oil. Am I very wrong ? Biodegradable of course and buy it by the gallon.

 

[Blue Hills]

I tend to use Wilko wet lube

I often use it - and my normal lube is the TF2 stuff recommended upthread by @freiston - I bought a litre of it a while ago for around a tenner.
In truth I wonder if they are basically the same thing.
I've used more apparently wondrous magical lubes in the past but now with much of my cycling kit try to keep things simple.

 

[Blue Hills]

I just use chainsaw oil. Am I very wrong ? Biodegradable of course and buy it by the gallon.

Does anyone actually use Chainsaw oil for chainsaws?
Can't help wondering if all those lumberjacks spend their evenings discussing the merits of the latest waxy synthetic magical bike oil.