deptfordmarmoset
Full time tea drinker
- Location
- Armonmy Way
I don't know what happened but if the tube had got trapped under the bead wouldn't it tend to push the bead upwards rather than tear the tyre from the beading?
What have I done wrong this time?
- Thread starter Tin Pot
- Start date
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Broadside
Guru
- Location
- Fleet, Hants
Or throw the valve nut away when you get the tube out of the packet! I never use them.
Broadside
Guru
- Location
- Fleet, Hants
I've wrecked a Michelin Pro4 like that before. I was trying to get it on a new rim just using my thumbs and not enough talc.
I struggled with it for an hour then went out for a ride and the tyre started bulging very much like the OP photo. All the pushing with thumbs will pull the tyre away from the bead. If a tyre is that stuck I now lubricate it much more or pop a tyre lever in and risk pinching the tube. Better that than killing a tyre.
I struggled with it for an hour then went out for a ride and the tyre started bulging very much like the OP photo. All the pushing with thumbs will pull the tyre away from the bead. If a tyre is that stuck I now lubricate it much more or pop a tyre lever in and risk pinching the tube. Better that than killing a tyre.
Andrew_P
In between here and there
Looks like my Michelin Pro4 Endurance that only had 150 miles on it. My assumption was a manufacturing fault with a weak bead join and or over inflation as I had inflated it at work and my work track pump I have subsequently found out is 15psi odd out.
I had 5-10 seconds warning of a clicking sound as I entered a fast right hander believe me you wouldn't ride a bike ever again with a tyre in that state if you have experienced a BANG then the sound of metal rear rim on tarmac and then the THUD as you hit the ground at 20-23mpg so fast your hands are still on the hoods but your shoulder which was used by your brain as protection and very effective anchor is inches out of your socket somewhere up by your collarbone and taken a bit of the socket with it. Add to that remember seeing your pride and joy flying on hitting the kerb and flopping on to the grass verge.
I have gone extreme the other way, I run tubeless on both my bikes now on two-way fit wheels. Not once have I not been able to get home due to puncture, and only once had to put a tube in to make it.
I had 5-10 seconds warning of a clicking sound as I entered a fast right hander believe me you wouldn't ride a bike ever again with a tyre in that state if you have experienced a BANG then the sound of metal rear rim on tarmac and then the THUD as you hit the ground at 20-23mpg so fast your hands are still on the hoods but your shoulder which was used by your brain as protection and very effective anchor is inches out of your socket somewhere up by your collarbone and taken a bit of the socket with it. Add to that remember seeing your pride and joy flying on hitting the kerb and flopping on to the grass verge.
I have gone extreme the other way, I run tubeless on both my bikes now on two-way fit wheels. Not once have I not been able to get home due to puncture, and only once had to put a tube in to make it.
earlestownflya
Well-Known Member
- Location
- earlestown.merseyside
in my case i noticed the tyre wasn't seated right before i rode on it,but seems from the picture the brake block has rubbed the tyre away just above the bead weakening it...similar to another occasion i had many years ago on an mtb where the brake block moved..result was identical to the picture posted.
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
Had a little look into tubeless. It sounds unfeasible, but I guess it could be worth a try. Are any available that you can fit yourself?
And is the ride significantly worse on a road bike (I'm doing 2-3hr rides)?
Andrew_P
In between here and there
You are confusing Tubular with Tubeless I think. I have got a tube in to a badly cut deflated tubeless at the road side in the rain.
The only puncture that stopped me in 5k miles on tubeless all the other ones self seal and you sense lower pressure stop and inflate and the ride. No big blow outs (supposedly) and they are plush to ride as you can run lower PSI as no tube to pinch. They can be an arse to get on but if I can do it anyone can! I am now that confident that I could patch at the roadside using a tubeless repair kit. They are so tight on the rim that I think it would give you valuable time in a rapid deflation to keep some control.
You just need the right wheel IMO. Stans do conversion kits that they claim will convert any 700c wheel. I Prefer a 2 way fit. Fulcrum 3's and Zeros I have used.
themosquitoking
Guru
- Location
- Spain
I'm running American Classics tubeless ready wheels tubeless and they're great. I also have had close access to a set of Ultegra tubeless ready wheels and they look good too. Not ridden them though.
Psycolist
NINJA BYKALIST
- Location
- North Essex
I'm wondering if the wheel and tyre combination had been ridden when flat. That can cause the type of damage seen to the tyre. That's apart from the damage caused to the rim by riding a flat. I've seen a wheel rim actually split and shredded by an exploding inner tube. It was a rim that had the brake surface worn dangerously thin, and the combination of high inner tube pressure and a thin walled wheel literally resulted in the wheel exploding. Nasty.
You've seen a rim fail due to high inner tube pressure and thin walled wheel. The tube explosion happened after the rim failed.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
You'd have to ride for quite a while with brakes misaligned so they caused sufficient damage to the tyre (see image in OP) and I think you'd realise and adjust the blocks accordingly. And we know from Tin Pot's subsequent post that the tyre side wall logo has only recently been rubbed. So I think @Psycolist has it:
The OP said, in the context of having tyre which had failed and was clearly likely to do so again "What could I do?" (other than patch the inner, reinstall and ride on). A dilemma in the circumstances but the lesson to learn here is to carry a boot as a matter of course, just as one would carry an inner tube. £5 has been offered, as has £50, but I use a piece cut from a milk carton and others recommend a bit cut from an old tyre (OP you have several of those!). Or you can buy things about the size of a credit card. In the OP's circumstances (without a boot) a nearby piece of litter in the road might have provided a substitute if he possessed no folding beer tokens.
The OP said, in the context of having tyre which had failed and was clearly likely to do so again "What could I do?" (other than patch the inner, reinstall and ride on). A dilemma in the circumstances but the lesson to learn here is to carry a boot as a matter of course, just as one would carry an inner tube. £5 has been offered, as has £50, but I use a piece cut from a milk carton and others recommend a bit cut from an old tyre (OP you have several of those!). Or you can buy things about the size of a credit card. In the OP's circumstances (without a boot) a nearby piece of litter in the road might have provided a substitute if he possessed no folding beer tokens.
U
User6179
Guest
Out in the countryside without a tyre boot scratching my head for something to use and about to give up and walk the 5 miles home it struck me I could use a bit of insole from my shoes
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
Carry a pair of trainers so I can lift the bike and run the rest of the way, yes. Carry a boot? I fail to see the benefit.
I see the folding fiver going in to protect the inner tube, but I'm not sure the value when it's the side wall that failed.
No I hadn't ridden it flat, it was pumped to 110 before every ride.
I've pretty much accepted that it was on old tire and either failed because of the age/quality or some damage picked up in the unscheduled off-road experience the week before.
Part II is the more recent tyre debacle thread
I see the folding fiver going in to protect the inner tube, but I'm not sure the value when it's the side wall that failed.
No I hadn't ridden it flat, it was pumped to 110 before every ride.
I've pretty much accepted that it was on old tire and either failed because of the age/quality or some damage picked up in the unscheduled off-road experience the week before.
Part II is the more recent tyre debacle thread
jefmcg
Guru
The tube will have failed because it bulged out the hole in the tyre. If you had blocked the hole, it might not have failed. Probably hard to achieve with currency, but the sticky-backed boot included in the lezyne patch kit would do the job.
