What Have You Fettled Today?

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Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Fitted a nicer SA 3 speed shifter to the Brompton this morning

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DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
Today a couple of parts arrived to (almost) finish the PlanetX Nanolight hillclimb project:

- Found the lost Dura-Ace pedals (in the shed, by the door :blink: ) so fitted them instead of the Ultegra ones (-10g)
- A carbon 42T chainring swapped for the existing 46T steel one I'd used as a 'chain limit' guide
- Stem arrived so swapped it with the Zipp one we'd used on the original build (110g vs. 140g = -30g)
- Blue lighter carbon-specific brake pads fitted front and rear (about -10g)

The steerer's still to be cut at the LBS and brake hoods swapped for heat-shrink plastic but we're almost there. Test hillclimb this Friday.

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As my 16yo's hopefully getting a team bike for 2021 I'm going to be putting my NeilPryde Nazare back to original later then try selling it as I'll use his current Cervelo S3. Anyone want an Ultegra-equipped 2015 race bike in Small? :whistle:
 
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roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
Rear cantis on the tandem. We're going to the Alps next week :becool: so they need to be right.

But is there anything more frustrating than adjusting cantis?

The wheel was slightly out of true. Truing wheels definitely outside of my comfort zone, but I have a go, and convince myself after half a turn on two or three spokes it's pretty much bob on.

Now the brakes. One brake block seems to be catching under the rim so I take it off, and it's worn a ridge, so I trim that with a Stanley knife. Check the other, the same. Minute adjustment then necessary to get them just close enough to the rim, right angle and parallel to rim.

Further adjustments on tension are a pain as the tension screw on this is not the easiest (see pic), indeed almost entirely useless, so I end up adjusting by taking up a little slack at a time on the yoke instead.

Eventually, spot on. But far worse than any other rim brake system I've owned.

Any advice:

1. Tension adjusting screw. Is there a better option available than the one in the pic? It's utter shite!

2. Would mini Vs be better? Other options?
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C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
Rear cantis on the tandem. We're going to the Alps next week :becool: so they need to be right.

But is there anything more frustrating than adjusting cantis?

The wheel was slightly out of true. Truing wheels definitely outside of my comfort zone, but I have a go, and convince myself after half a turn on two or three spokes it's pretty much bob on.

Now the brakes. One brake block seems to be catching under the rim so I take it off, and it's worn a ridge, so I trim that with a Stanley knife. Check the other, the same. Minute adjustment then necessary to get them just close enough to the rim, right angle and parallel to rim.

Further adjustments on tension are a pain as the tension screw on this is not the easiest (see pic), indeed almost entirely useless, so I end up adjusting by taking up a little slack at a time on the yoke instead.

Eventually, spot on. But far worse than any other rim brake system I've owned.

Any advice:

1. Tension adjusting screw. Is there a better option available than the one in the pic? It's utter shite!

2. Would mini Vs be better? Other options? View attachment 536030
Is the cable coming out through the slot I the screw? Can't the screw be turned by 180 degrees so the slot is in the other side?
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
Is the cable coming out through the slot I the screw? Can't the screw be turned by 180 degrees so the slot is in the other side?

Good question.

If it's set up as you suggest it limits the cable pull as the yoke impinges on the end of the screw.

As it's set up the yoke continues to rise until the brake lever maxes out.

I'm not at all sure if this is how it's meant to be!

But the issue is more convenience of adjustment - the brakes are good, it just takes a lifetime to get them set right.
 

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
Good question.

If it's set up as you suggest it limits the cable pull as the yoke impinges on the end of the screw.

As it's set up the yoke continues to rise until the brake lever maxes out.

I'm not at all sure if this is how it's meant to be!

But the issue is more convenience of adjustment - the brakes are good, it just takes a lifetime to get them set right.
Would need a more zoomed out picture to understand the layout, I have very limited experience with cantis, Vs seem much easier to get right, but that may be just me.
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
Would need a more zoomed out picture to understand the layout, I have very limited experience with cantis, Vs seem much easier to get right, but that may be just me.

Nope, that's my exact experience too.

The machine is now hanging up in the garage, and I'm too lazy to haul it's 20+ kgs down and back up for more photos... Will post more next time out.
 
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Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
The cable guide also has a slot, as does the nut, you just need to release the tension and turn the bolt so the slot is at 180 degrees and the cable will run normally.
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
The cable guide also has a slot, as does the nut, you just need to release the tension and turn the bolt so the slot is at 180 degrees and the cable will run normally.

Sorry, I'm not following you.

The set up works as-is, perfectly. It's just hard to adjust tension (as the adjustment screw is tiny, inaccessible and under tension).

If the bolt is moved 180 degrees then the yoke meets the end of that adjustment screw before the full cable pull is achieved from the lever, which limits maximum braking power. Does that make sense? As it is, the yoke actually overlaps the screw a bit under maximum braking.

The yoke is close to horizontal already, so tightening that probably wouldn't help the issue with impinging on the screw and I daresay could cause other issues?

Is there a recommended cable angle at the yoke?
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
My 10 year old frame fit Zefal pump. Something went in handle when fixing puncture today so it would no longer spring to fit on pump peg and frame. Brought it home in seat bag. Fiddling with it back home, thinking I’d need to replace it. I pulled it out to full extension and beyond and it pulled whatever had got out of position back in place. Frame fit pump now refitted. 😀
 
Had one of those feelings looking at a Dell Studio 1735 laptop on ebay. "Powers up, but screen unresponsive ". Aha! Got it for a song. It does have some corner damage, but nothing unfixable.
Popped in some ram - bingo! There's nothing wrong bar the damage. That's what the feeling was: they're assessing this with no installed ram, and no PC wakes up without it!
So my Dell Studio 1535 has grown a bit!
 
For the last couple of sessions the turbo has been pretty squeaky so after this mornings squeaky session I decided to track it down the the large metal cone/ flat washer was only finger tight. So I tightened it at the flat spot (designed or a spanner) and the squeak seems to have went away during the subsequent session. After which I did a spin down calibration.
 
After receiving my Planet X order today. I set to......
SEE BOTTOM OF POSTING
For a couple of weeks, there's been a creaking from the front of my CGR

Diagnosis pointed to a crack in a fork-blade, as the only time it disappeared was when out of the saddle (no, it wasn't a loose saddle/cracked rail/etc..)
My thoughts were that the noise went, as more weight was closing the hair-line gap

So, with a brew, the strip-down started


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All came apart well, & the steerer-tube was measured
I was going to just use a hacksaw, but decided to try the pipe-cutter (as it ought to give a 'squarer' cut)
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Damned hard work though, compared to using in on copper pipes :okay:

Trial fit, then start reinstalling
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Damn, Bugger, Buggerance!!!:cursing::cursing::cursing:
There was a lot of play in it, a hell of a lot of 'rocking' when the front brake was applied
So, more tea was made & a think
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Incidentally, this is my pot;
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I just tinkered with the clamp, & 'star-nut' bolt. & it seems to have disappeared
I'll ride it to work tomorrow, & see how it goes - let it all bed-in

With that in mind, the mudguards were also remounted
The re-sited stays needed shortening, so the Dremel came out
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Prepared for sparks!
Being sensible, whilst using the Dremel with a cutting-disc to trim the mudguard stays
The head-torch was for the shadows that I was creating over the items

I could certainly feel the sparks, & 'disc-dust' on my face!!

Better Safe, Than A Visit To The Opthalmologist!!
(I've seen the damage a disc can do, even a Dremel disc, if it breaks-up!)

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When I went in, to make another brew, Senior Management asked if I'd sorted it, so after explaining in lay-mans terms, she asked why not just buy a new bike?!!?:eek:
I was prepared to say "Okay!!"

However, I'm not really a fan of 'dropped stays', & it would have been this (to be reasonable about costs)
https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-cgr-al-orange-shimano-tiagra/
Plus. I'd need new wheels, as all frames are now 'thru-axles', unless Aksyiums can be adapted??



The Red Print...........

I had contacted Ribble, but, they told me they had no (first generation) CGR forks in the warehouse - and none on order
The guy who contacted me sympathised. & stated that they may be able to offer a discount on a new frame/forks (but as of ordering the PX items, yesterday, there was no return email)
Other companies like Kinesis had nothing suitable, then I looked at Planet-X, & the London Road fork was in stock!
(Q/R, not 'thru', and... set for 140mm discs)
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FOPXLOROAM/planet-x-london-road-fork

Now, if they offer me a decent discount on a titanium CGR frame/forks, I might overcome my dislike of 'dropped-stays'
https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-cgr-ti/
 
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Fettled the wife’s Dutch bike. I used a paste of salt and white wine vinegar and scrubbed it on the chrome bars leaving it to soak for a good 10-15 mins before rubbing off. The bars came up lovely and shiny and the surface rust is gone.

While the bars were soaking I removed the rust from the chain and fettled the mudguard and changed the brake pads on my kids bike.

Once the bars were sorted I fitted a wicker basket and she is over the moon.
 
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