What Have You Fettled Today?

[Elybazza61]

Thanks Frank, that’s very kind of you to say 😊.
As it happens Stayer’s frame painter does a clear finish that leaves all the brazing and heat marks on display and I’ve gone for that. Luckily the head tube/top tube join went well since it’ll be in my eyeline constantly 😁

My Stayer OG is in the clear finish, some detail pics from when I got it ;

And as it is now,It's stood up to a fair bit of abuse and there's only a couple of bits where the clear coat has been chipped off;

 

[Fergs]

My Stayer OG is in the clear finish, some detail pics from when I got it ;

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And as it is now,It's stood up to a fair bit of abuse and there's only a couple of bits where the clear coat has been chipped off;

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Very nice indeed, and a lovely build, thanks for sharing the pics 👍

I infer it’s the phosphate dip that darkens the frame metal a bit, but since that highlights the brazing more I think it adds to the effect

 

[sevenfourate]

Total clean, drive-train strip and lube, tighten (Same ?) rear wheel spoke [Spoke and nipple want renewing I imagine] , adjust front brake……

Also took the time to touch-in a chip to the REAR of the rear stay - using Hammerite paint and the sharpened shaft of a cotton bud. *So slow - road debris catches me up from behind; say what ? 🤣

 

[Shearwater Missile]

After a good ride this morning, in good, I mean I felt good, that makes a change; I decided to trim the back hedge, a mixture of laurel and what I think is, is some kind of viburnum. Whatever it is, it always gets eaten by something. At least we don`t have to worry about the box caterpillar anymore as we are ridden of the box. Monty will tell you that one.
All in all a good result, despite the forecast for rain this afternoon.

 

[ColinJ]

Today, I be mainly playing musical front wheels/tyres. Bear with me, there was method in the madness, not madness in the method!

I took the Campagnolo Neutron off my CAAD 5, the Campagnolo Proton off my DIY 6-speed Specialized, and the Mavic Aksium off my old Basso turbo bike.

I took the Continental GP 5000 tyre off the Neutron, the good Michelin Lithion off the Proton, and the worn Lithion off the Aksium.

I put the GP 5000 tyre on the Proton, the Good Lithion on the Aksium and the worn Lithion on the Neutron.

I put the Proton wheel on the CAAD 5, the Aksium on the Specialized, and the Neutron on the Basso.

This was all triggered by a stupid decision to ride my best bike all year round, a few years back. All of the bikes have rim brakes. One winter of riding on wet salty/gritty roads was enough to grind away a lot of the braking surfaces of the Neutron. I didn't want to scrap the wheel so I kept on riding it, but seeing photos of rim failures finally decided me - I definitely do NOT want my front wheel exploding on an 80+ km/hr Pennine descent!!

So now I have my best (but now fragile) wheel safely on my turbo bike, my second best (but still good) wheel on my best bike, and a chunky (but acceptable) wheel on my knockabout bike. All bikes still have the same front tyres as before.

 

[All uphill]

I disassembled the front wheel of Ms AUs main bike. The wheel has a Shimano dynamo hub.

Having cleaned up the terminals, adjusted and regressed the bearings a voltage is now present, but the lights still don't work. That means I'll be tracing the wiring and googling to find out how to check LEDs tomorrow.

 

[ColinJ]

One winter of riding on wet salty/gritty roads was enough to grind away a lot of the braking surfaces of the Neutron.

This photo gives an idea of how much rim wear there is. Maybe it would be safe for another year or two of riding, but I don't think that it's worth the risk!

 

[HLaB]

This photo gives an idea of how much rim wear there is. Maybe it would be safe for another year or two of riding, but I don't think that it's worth the risk!

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I replaced my last front wheel on my commuter that was like that, I waited until the wear marker showed up before making the final call, but I'd bought the replacement at the early sign of dishing and swapped it the minute the wear markers appeared. If it had been a rear wheel being a light rider I probably would have run it longer (at least waited for the wear marker to order the replacement) but its not worth it IMO for a front wheel. For the good bike though (which I use for longer faster rides with decent descent speeds) when its front wheel started to dish I replaced it straight away.

 

[sevenfourate]

Crank arm to BB; securing bolt(s) have loosened a couple of times in last few months. The arm hasn’t come loose on the tapered square drive BB - and I’ve never felt any movement between the arm and the BB. Just the bolt has loosened slightly. And both BB and crank are reasonably new……

So today I thought I’d do something about it. Tools and Equipment were assembled:

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Old bolts removed:

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BB internal thread / area around it cleaned with Cotton buds and White Spirit:

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I was going to clean the grease off the bolts before re-fitting. Then noticed the two bolts I’d removed were different 🤷‍♂️ *Incase really old / re-used bolts had been mixed at some point; and for the sake of a few ££££ (And seeing as I had them ‘in stock’) - I quickly decided to refit with fresh bolts / new threads !

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Extra Threadlock was applied to the bolt threads. Both inserted and then torqued to 45lb-ft.

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Let’s see how this goes 👍

For reference. After the above to try to ‘sort’ a loosening (?) crank arm bolt - I’m maybe 120+ miles on and with no apparent loosening of the bolt 👌💪👍🤞

I say apparent - as I can hear no clicking. Can feel nothing when riding; and can induce no movement trying to force / manipulate it statically at rest.

What I can’t do is physically try to tighten the bolt / see if it’s loose or looser: as it’s Loctite’d. That would break what I’m hoping is the semi permanent bond that’s currently sorted the ‘issue’ 🙄

Just a reference for others that perhaps a loosening bolt isn’t always a sign the ‘taper lock’ principle is fubar’d due to a worn Aluminium crank arm or other blah blah.

Long, longer and permanently may it continue 😁

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Had a tyre I could not get to seat properly no matter what I did. Read an article that 3 things cause a bead to not seat evenly around a rim. Rim tape riding up the side of the rim wall was one. Sure enough this was the case where the tyre sat low. Replaced rim tape, inflated tyre to 80 psi for tyre bead to pop into place, then dropped pressure to the 50 psi I run them at. Seems far smoother with no noticeable bump, and average speed nicely up for no extra effort 😁

 

[EckyH]

Made the footbike ready to start: patched an inner tube, changed the rim tape, adjusted the brakes and removed the Klickfix mount.

E.