What tool required to remove cassette/freewheel?

[Sham69]

Would appreciate guidance on this issue...

I have an early-to- mid 90's GT Tequesta all-terrain cycle and I wish to replace the rear set of cogs, Suntour branded, which have developed a bit of play or wobble. Even after studying a few YouTube videos, I still don't know if I have a cassette or a freewheel, neither do I know how to remove it. In the past, I've replaced freewheels many times on other cycles so I'm looking for notches or splines yet there aren't any. I can't work this one out. I've taken a few picks. The ring that the cogs are attached to turns with the cog set. Please help if you can. Thanks for looking.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Two chain whips working in opposite direction. One whip on the smallest sprocket, the other anywhere.

 

[Sham69]

Two chain whips working in opposite direction. One whip on the smallest sprocket, the other anywhere.

Thanks for your reply. So you think it's a cassette where the first, smallest cog, screws onto the 'ring' and holds the others in place? Two more questions if I may:
Are replacements available?
and
The play I experience maybe (or is likely to be) within the rachet mechanism which, if I understand correctly, is part of the hub/wheel. Would I need to replace the entire hub assembly to rid myself of this play? Thanks.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Thanks for your reply. So you think it's a cassette where the first, smallest cog, screws onto the 'ring' and holds the others in place? Two more questions if I may:
Are replacements available?
and
The play I experience maybe (or is likely to be) within the rachet mechanism which, if I understand correctly, is part of the hub/wheel. Would I need to replace the entire hub assembly to rid myself of this play? Thanks.

It's been years since I've last worked on something like that. I don't know if replacements are available. It seems that in the UK, nothing is really extinct.
It is a freewheel.
I don't know how much play you are talking about. However, all freewheels and freehubs display a wobble when you wind up the crank (with bike in a stand) and let the bike coast. This is nothing to worry about.
I think purveyors of ancient technologies, like @raleighnut and @fossyant should come to your rescue.

 

[raleighnut]

It's been years since I've last worked on something like that. I don't know if replacements are available. It seems that in the UK, nothing is really extinct.
It is a freewheel.
I don't know how much play you are talking about. However, all freewheels and freehubs display a wobble when you wind up the crank (with bike in a stand) and let the bike coast. This is nothing to worry about.
I think purveyors of ancient technologies, like @raleighnut and @fossyant should come to your rescue.

I never mess around with stuff like that, I find if I go into a shop and buy a new un they're only too happy to change em over for me (FOC)

 

[Sham69]

It is a freewheel

Glad to hear that.

I never mess around with stuff like that, I find if I go into a shop and buy a new un they're only too happy to change em over for me (FOC)

I take your point but that could be several months away. Even after lockdown, I imagine bike repair shops will be overrun for a while. If possible, I'd like to sort it myself but I'm slowly realising that sourcing a replacement won't be straightforward and there's no point in me removing the freewheel if I can't source a replacement part. Purchasing a replacement with the same fitting and thread type is tricky, if not impossible. And I'm out of touch - I hadn't realised freewheels aren't generally sold any more, though there are a few on ebay but not with similar fixings.

What would my options be if I can't source a like-for-like replacement freewheel? Would I have to replace the rear wheel (hub) and current Suntour indexed gear changers, maybe the derailler too?

I'm beginning to think the bicycle has had its day. Shame, rides nicely.

 

[DCBassman]

Do what I did - source a new wheel with freehub, then fit a cassette. The downside is you may need to change the number of speeds, which means new shifters and possibly cold-setting the frame.
I got mine from Taylor Wheels in Germany, and they do wheels with freewheels also, so you may be able to source a direct replacement.
And they're still up and running at the moment.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I think @DCBassman 's recommendation is too extreme.
Finding a direct replacement for the freewheel will be a challenge.
The OP can confirm type of hub (?Shimano STX, QR, 135?mm OLN) and number of sprockets (?7).
Buy (edited) a 26" wheel with a 'normal' 7sp freewheel on will be widely available (new or used), cheap (used) and perfectly functional, and work with the OP's indexed shifters. Thousands of new bikes have such wheels with such freewheel hubs/block.

 

[Sham69]

Do what I did - source a new wheel with freehub, then fit a cassette. The downside is you may need to change the number of speeds, which means new shifters and possibly cold-setting the frame.
I got mine from Taylor Wheels in Germany, and they do wheels with freewheels also, so you may be able to source a direct replacement.
And they're still up and running at the moment.

Thanks very much for the heads up. This is turning into a 'project' when I initially thought it to be an afternoon's work - at most. My main bicycle has internal hub gears and, although I've had this GT Tequesta for over 20 years, it's an occasional bike that requires little maintenance so I'm really out of touch and frankly shocked at how cassettes have (more or less) replaced freewheels.

I need to cost this 'project' (in both time and money) before making a decision that's why I really appreciate this useful info.

PS. What is meant by 'cold-setting the frame'?

 

[fossyant]

I think purveyors of ancient technologies, like @raleighnut and @fossyant should come to your rescue.

Oi, less about my age.

That indeed is a freewheel, but it's not one I've come across.

From the pictures you are going to need cone spanners on the nut and what looks like a dust cover over the end of the freewheel. Once these are off, hopefully there will either be a couple of slots or a set of splines to get a freewheel remover into it.

You can remove sprockets from the freewheel body with chain whips, the smallest holding them on. Now, you are unlikely to find any replacement sprockets - I used to have freewheels that you could change sprockets on, leaving the freewheel on the hub.

Now does it still spin freely and does the chain still mesh properly. If so, maybe leave it.

You can get replacement freewheels, but they are usually budget models these days. Be aware, any freewheel is likely to be exceptionally tight. I used to use a garden hoe, slotted on my adjustable spanner on the freewheel removal tool. That's an 8ft spanner to get the leverage to get it off.

If you do get it off, then replacements are available - e.g. shimano still make them.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

PS. What is meant by 'cold-setting the frame'?

Fancy word for bending it. Modern wheels are slightly wider over the locknuts than older wheels. In order to fit a modern wheel in an old frame, you have to bend open the rear triangle. This is easy, painless and routine. Pity that it has been fancified with stupid pseudo-engineering terminology.

 

[Ajax Bay]

From a (yahoo) look, the early-to-mid '90s GT Tequesta had an OLN of 135mm, so no bending required.

 

[Sham69]

The OP can confirm type of hub (?Shimano STX, QR, 135?mm OLN) and number of sprockets (?7).

The hub is Suntour (no idea of model reference), the derailler is marked as: Suntour Accushiftplus X-1. It's a 7 speed indexed gear system.

I found this on ebay and it is described (and looks) to be the same as my rear sprockets but it is a cassette:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-St...&brand=Suntour&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219

What do you think?

From the pictures you are going to need cone spanners on the nut and what looks like a dust cover over the end of the freewheel. Once these are off, hopefully there will either be a couple of slots or a set of splines to get a freewheel remover into it.

The dust cover-looking thing beneath the locknut is in fact one side of the wheel's bearing housing. I have dismantled further (and chased ball bearings around the garage) and there are no slots/notches/splines present - just a smooth surface.

Now does it still spin freely and does the chain still mesh properly. If so, maybe leave it.

It still spins freely but feels wobbly/loose. Perhaps this is normal though I don't remember that on earlier freewheel sprocketed bikes I've serviced - been a long time mind and memory isn't what it was. The chain is stiff and pretty rusty and a new one costs under a £10 so I'll replace it. My bad for neglecting the bike following a winter accident a couple of years ago - probably left it coated in salt. Just getting round to sorting out minor damage now and thought I'd replace rear sprockets as I see slight wear, it wobbles when touched and I usually replace rear sprockets when replacing a worn chain.

 

[fossyant]

I'd get a new set of wheels cheaply. That's what I did with my old MTB - bought some off the peg Mavic Wheels, and just use a couple of spacers to use a 7 speed cassette (bought 8 speed and removed a sprocket).

 

[Sham69]

But a 26" wheel with a 'normal' 7sp freewheel on will be widely available (new or used), cheap (used) and perfectly functional, and work with the OP's indexed shifters

Wasn't confident it would work. Are the spacings between each of the 7 sprockets a standard distance?