What tool required to remove cassette/freewheel?

[MichaelW2]

7 speed are all standard spacing. Afaik there is only one common thread for screw-on freewheel hubs. When I used them I never had anyone ask me which thread I wanted.
I used Shimano and Sram freewheels.
I use the tool to get the threads started by turning in reverse direction until thry click, because steel freewheel can chew up aluminium threads. Normal pedalling will tighten the freewheel.

 

[Ajax Bay]

There's any number of easy-to-find freewheels and I'd expect the thread under that freewheel to be 'standard'. So if you can get it off, just replace the freewheel. If not, your choice is whether to get a freewheel 26" wheel or one with a freehub (and a 7sp cassette). Given that you'll never wear a new freewheel out (original on there for 25 years) I'd go for the former. I bet Dartford garages are stuffed with such wheels, with a freewheel already in place.

 

[Sham69]

From a (yahoo) look, the early-to-mid '90s GT Tequesta had an OLN of 135mm, so no bending required.

Thanks for the link. I can confirm the spacing (OLN?) of 135mm, however, my bike is populated with Suntour components with no Shimano anywhere. Rims are Araya 26 x 1.50HE RX-7. Rear sprockets are stamped as Suntour. I bought the bike second hand. Doubt the original owner would have changed all those Shimano components over to Suntour. Maybe this bike is slightly older than I thought?

There's any number of easy-to-find freewheels and I'd expect the thread under that freewheel to be 'standard'. So if you can get it off, just replace the freewheel.

I guess I'm still doubtful about this. I have Googled extensively for freewheels and the tools used to remove them. I've seen lots of different variations yet none like the one I have. Interestingly, the spec you linked says 'Cassette', and although mine is not Shimano, I think it may still be a cassette. Final point: The rear sprockets are fixed onto a structure/former which exhibits some play - the end of which is visible in the photographs - why does this former onto which the freewheel is fitted, move slightly when touched? Past experience tells me that freewheel fixing is rock solid.

I agree that a new freewheel 26" wheel is probably my best bet, no matter whether my bike currently has a freewheel or a cassette. If it's a cassette, then there's too much play within the hub ratchet mechanism so will need replacement anyway.

 

[Ajax Bay]

although mine is not Shimano, I think it may still be a cassette

The image in the OP is not of a cassette.
Worth a scan: https://bike-boom.blogspot.com/2012/02/late-80s-gt-tequesta.html

 

[Foghat]

The lack of notches to fit a freewheel removal tool means the OP's item most likely is indeed a Suntour freehub and cassette, which did exist - see THIS and THIS.

It's similar to the Shimano Uniglide cassettes (the precursor to Hyperglide with lockrings) in terms of retention of the sprockets. So as YS has already mentioned it takes two chain whips to undo the locking threaded sprocket, rather than one to get a Hyperglide cassette off with its lockring system.

No idea how Suntour freehub body internals compare with Shimano's, but it's possible that there is a shim system inside it and that removing a thin shim, or reducing a freehub body locknut thickness very slightly, would remove the play. There's a good thread over on the CyclingUK forums on the subject: shimming freehubs, where Brucey is the freehub guru (as well as on many other cycling technical matters) and will no doubt fill you in on all you need to know if you ask nicely. He probably also knows about Suntour cassette availability, and whether any Shimano cassettes are compatible on Suntour freehubs too......

 

[Foghat]

Coincidentally, I was riding Suntour freewheels when these superb tracks came out

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The lack of notches to fit a freewheel removal tool means the OP's item most likely is indeed a Suntour freehub and cassette, which did exist - see THIS and THIS.

It's similar to the Shimano Uniglide cassettes (the precursor to Hyperglide with lockrings) in terms of retention of the sprockets. So as YS has already mentioned it takes two chain whips to undo the locking threaded sprocket, rather than one to get a Hyperglide cassette off with its lockring system.

No idea how Suntour freehub internals compare with Shimano's, but it's possible that there is a shim system inside it and that removing a thin shim, or reducing a freehub locknut thickness very slightly, would remove the play. There's a good thread over on the CyclingUK forums on the subject: shimming freehubs, where Brucey is the freehub guru (as well as on many other cycling technical matters) and will no doubt fill you in on all you need to know if you ask nicely. He probably also knows about Suntour cassette availability, and whether any Shimano cassettes are compatible on Suntour freehubs too......

Yes, that's it. Nice find. Joytech also made them like that. I had a 6-speed one on my 1980s MTB.
But as I said earlier, I have not worked on, or seen anything similar since but I do recall the double chainwhip arrangement.

 

[Ajax Bay]

the OP's item most likely is indeed a Suntour freehub and cassette

Well done finding both those links. Sorry, OP: I was wrong ref 'not a cassette'.
YS advised you straight away how to get the sprockets off. Servicing the Suntour freehub - with the help of @Foghat 's excellent illustrated link - offers you a challenge and a half.

Two chain whips working in opposite direction

 

[Sham69]

For the sake of completeness...

Thanks all for your help, much appreciated. I tried the two chain whip approach, after applying Easol (and WD40 days before that) and I couldn't budge the first sprocket. Two of us with 4 ft levers on both chain whips! I'm amazed I didn't break anything - well, actually one of the levers bent. Clearly, I either continued until destruction (no point) or sourced a replacement wheel + cassette or just put everything back in place and tolerated the slight wobble. I chose the latter approach. Probably pointless, but I even managed to salvage the rusty chain with a lot of work. Having cleaned and re-lubricated all important parts (of the bike!), it now runs very nicely. Have to say, the quality of Suntour components is an improvement on the mid-range Shimano components fitted to both my current IGH bike and an old derailleur tourer. Been using the GT for exercise during the lockdown. I'll wait until lockdown is eased before sourcing a new wheel + cassette.

Thanks for the links in post#20, froghat. I had previously removed the outer bearing cone cover and it looked identical to the linked photos.