Wheel Bearing Help Required

[JPBoothy]

Hi All,
I'm sure this is a subject that you knowledgeable folk have discussed many times but, please be patient with this non-knowledgeable chap and pass on your much needed (and appreciated) advice.

I decided to remove my rear axle/cone from my QR wheel to correct a lateral wobble by replacing (or just re-packing) the bearings but, I foolishly removed the drive side cone/lock-nut rather than working from the non drive side. Is there an exact measurement/position it needs to be reset at so as not to mis-align the wheel?

 

[raleighnut]

If it is a QR type all you have to do is ensure that equal amounts of the hollow axle 'poke out' of the wheel each side to engage the wheel in the dropouts, the hub itself is a fixed dimension so unless you move spacers around you cannot change where the wheel sits in them.

 

[Spoked Wheels]

If you have not moved the lock-nut on the non-drive side then the drive side should fit just like it did before.

Read instructions about how to adjust cone / ball bearings.

 

[raleighnut]

If you have not moved the lock-nut on the non-drive side then the drive side should fit just like it did before.

Read instructions about how to adjust cone / ball bearings.

I'd assumed he'd took both sides off so took it from a 'bare axle' perspective.

 

[accountantpete]

As above - the cone should seat exactly where it was and you should have approx equal amounts of axle protruding each side to sit in the drop outs.

Don't forget that you need two spanners to set the lock nut - slightly over tighten the cone first, tighten up the lock nut into the cone and then undo the cone whilst tightening the lock nut to set everything in place so it doesn't work loose.

 

[JPBoothy]

I'd assumed he'd took both sides off so took it from a 'bare axle' perspective.

I did take it completely off

To make matters worse, whilst holding the lock-nut on the non-drive side, I also ended-up moving that too!

I think by trying to fettle on the 'cold' garage floor using ordinary spanners and Automotive grease didn't help so, I have ordered a pack of new Weldtite 1/4" bearings/grease and a pair of Cone spanners to have another go later in the week. I know that LBS would have it done in no time but I am the curious type who likes to try myself.

So, as long as I have equal length of axle through each side of the hub then the wheel should sit correctly without preventing my cassette/brake disc from fowling?

 

[raleighnut]

I did take it completely off

To make matters worse, whilst holding the lock-nut on the non-drive side, I also ended-up moving that too!

I think by trying to fettle on the 'cold' garage floor using ordinary spanners and Automotive grease didn't help so, I have ordered a pack of new Weldtite 1/4" bearings/grease and a pair of Cone spanners to have another go later in the week. I know that LBS would have it done in no time but I am the curious type who likes to try myself.

So, as long as I have equal length of axle through each side of the hub then the wheel should sit correctly without preventing my cassette/brake disc from fowling?

Yep, just make sure you have the cones/locknuts and any washers back where they came from.

EDIT - Any grease is fine in there, it doesn't need to be a specific 'Cycle' type.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Stop faffing about and buy a new bike instead. You know it makes sense.

 

[JPBoothy]

Stop faffing about and buy a new bike instead. You know it makes sense.

Ha Ha, you must have been to a certain well known bike store in Chester too! If you went to this particular shop for a tyre they would literally try to sell you a bike instead.

Either that or, it's a line you have been practicing for your other half when you spot your next shiny new steed.

To be honest, I got this latest bike for a song off ebay. It is a 2016 CAADX which retailed at approx £1k when new and I paid £380 for it. It rides great but, I'm just fussy about things being 'just right'

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

To be honest, I got this latest bike for a song off ebay. It is a 2016 CAADX which retailed at approx £1k when new and I paid £380 for it. It rides great but, I'm just fussy about things being 'just right'

Bargain secondhand machinery & DIY maintenance both make perfect sense to me. I've never faffed around buying expensive "cycling" lubricants that invariably come in small quantities. Car grease for bearings, and car engine oil for anything that needs a squirt from an oil can. I do like motorbike chain lube though, as it goes on liquid so it penetrates the links then solidifies after application.

 

[JPBoothy]

Bargain secondhand machinery & DIY maintenance both make perfect sense to me. I've never faffed aroun d buying expensive "cycling" lubricants that invariably come in small quantities. Car grease for bearings, and car engine oil for anything that needs a squirt from an oil can. I do like motorbike chain lube though, as it goes on liquid so it penetrates the links then solidifies after application.

I'm not quite a skip man myself (yet) but, I have always managed to buy/sell without having to break the bank since tapping into the 'used' bike market and no longer being drawn to the new and shiny stuff. There are loads of nice bikes for sale that have been bought through the BTW scheme by the same people that buy Gym memberships and never set foot in the door.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Not sure about the red valve cap, but I suppose you'll be able to find it on the floor.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

Ha Ha, you must have been to a certain well known bike store in Chester too! If you went to this particular shop for a tyre they would literally try to sell you a bike instead.

Either that or, it's a line you have been practicing for your other half when you spot your next shiny new steed.

To be honest, I got this latest bike for a song off ebay. It is a 2016 CAADX which retailed at approx £1k when new and I paid £380 for it. It rides great but, I'm just fussy about things being 'just right'

Some years ago I walked into my lbs intending to buy an inner tube and came out with the inner tube and a new bike, so be careful when visiting your lbs.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

[QUOTE="JPBoothy, post: 5108120, member: 42604". There are loads of nice bikes for sale that have been bought through the BTW scheme by the same people that buy Gym memberships and never set foot in the door. [/QUOTE]

Someone else's depreciation hit is your bargain.
I really prefer old-school stuff to most modern machinery - the average age of my bikes is around the 25 year mark, so have gone beyond the point at which depreciation happens. All bar the oldest one was acquired secondhand or salvaged.

 

[JPBoothy]

[QUOTE="JPBoothy, post: 5108120, member: 42604". There are loads of nice bikes for sale that have been bought through the BTW scheme by the same people that buy Gym memberships and never set foot in the door.

Someone else's depreciation hit is your bargain.
I really prefer old-school stuff to most modern machinery - the average age of my bikes is around the 25 year mark, so have gone beyond the point at which depreciation happens. All bar the oldest one was acquired secondhand or salvaged.[/QUOTE]
I'm like that when I buy cars. Mine is currently 15yrs old and my wifes is 13yrs old. We have managed to get to 20yrs on two in the past. Anyway, enough about those filthy metal boxes lets get back to self propelled two wheeled freedom