Which Brand Of Chain is Best?

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Mr Pig

New Member
I'm going to buy a few new chains for my bike, nine-speed. In the past I've bought SRAM ones but there are so many at different prices from different manufactures. Does anyone have experience of the different makes/types?

SRAM.
Shimano.
KMC.
Taya.
ConneX Wipperman.

Half of these brands I've never heard of!
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
I like KMC chains. Shimano are made of Cheese.
Never use a degreaser or chain washer. Use the Mickle method. Just wipe lube and wipe again, wipe, lube, and wipe again.
 

Steve Austin

The Marmalade Kid
I like Shimano and KMC.

Kmc joining pins are very good and work better than others

Would not use any of the others again
 
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Mr Pig

Mr Pig

New Member
Good enough, I'll buy some KMC ones.

Surely wiping the chain doesn't get the grit out of the rollers? I wash the chain in white spirit until I can twist it without hearing the 'grunch' of grit in the rollers. I then wash the white spirit out with water, with a little detergent in it, then dry in the oven before re-oiling. Works really well.
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Mr Pig said:
Good enough, I'll buy some KMC ones.

Surely wiping the chain doesn't get the grit out of the rollers? I wash the chain in white spirit until I can twist it without hearing the 'grunch' of grit in the rollers. I then wash the white spirit out with water, with a little detergent in it, then dry in the oven before re-oiling. Works really well.


Here's why...
http://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=service#2
 
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Mr Pig

Mr Pig

New Member
From the KMC page:
Avoid the use of solvents, not only are these bad for the environment, they remove lubricant from the chain's bearing.

Yes of course they do. They remove 'everything' from the chain's bearings. That's the point I thought.

Then when you re-lubricate the chain you put nice clean new lube in there. The rollers on the chain arn't a sealed system, a lot of crap gets in there, and it makes no sense to me to just leave it in there and keep throwing oil at the outside.

I've cleaned my chain this way for years and it's nice and quiet and smooth when it's clean and has a nice new coating of Finnish line Cross Country. If I'm lazy and just wipe the outside and throw oil on the chain it is better but nowhere near as good as a full wash up. I don't agree with the KMC advice.
 
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Mr Pig

Mr Pig

New Member
Baggy said:
Is that a popular lube in Scandanavia? :sad:

Yes, and popular with dyslexic people in this country too ;0)
 

Chris James

Über Member
Mr Pig said:
The rollers on the chain arn't a sealed system, a lot of crap gets in there, and it makes no sense to me to just leave it in there and keep throwing oil at the outside.

From my experience I think the grinding paste argument is overplayed. Any crap is deposited on the outside surface of you chain so as long as you oil the inside surface then you are effectively flushing out the system anyway, without the risk of removing all lubricant from the working surfaces.

I tend to use the oil and wipe method. Although if the chain is very mucky I'll (occasionally) flush through by using lots of spray TF2. In fact in summer I often use TF2 alone as long as I am only doing fairly short day rides (as it doesn't have the longevity of Finish Line Cross Country - my favoured wet weather lube).
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Chris James said:
From my experience I think the grinding paste argument is overplayed. Any crap is deposited on the outside surface of you chain so as long as you oil the inside surface then you are effectively flushing out the system anyway, without the risk of removing all lubricant from the working surfaces.

I tend to use the oil and wipe method. Although if the chain is very mucky I'll (occasionally) flush through by using lots of spray TF2. In fact in summer I often use TF2 alone as long as I am only doing fairly short day rides (as it doesn't have the longevity of Finish Line Cross Country - my favoured wet weather lube).

Agreed.

If the grinding paste was having an effect then my Fixie and MTB/Commute hack chain should have dissolved years ago.
 

DaveP

Well-Known Member
+1 for SRAM

As a mechanical engineer for more years that I care to remember, my chain once a month gets a good dose of cleaning with spray assisted by the humble toothbrush then after a dry, lots of dry lube (white lightning at the moment).

Once every other month, off with the rear cassette with each sprocket being cleaned along with the rear derailleur and the front chain ring.

If I could afford or know someone with an ultrasonic bath, then this would be my preferred option.
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Mr Pig said:
From the KMC page:


Yes of course they do. They remove 'everything' from the chain's bearings. That's the point I thought.

Then when you re-lubricate the chain you put nice clean new lube in there. The rollers on the chain arn't a sealed system, a lot of crap gets in there, and it makes no sense to me to just leave it in there and keep throwing oil at the outside.

I've cleaned my chain this way for years and it's nice and quiet and smooth when it's clean and has a nice new coating of Finnish line Cross Country. If I'm lazy and just wipe the outside and throw oil on the chain it is better but nowhere near as good as a full wash up. I don't agree with the KMC advice.

I agree.
My preferred method is to blast the chain with compressed air. Its not an option for most people of course, but whatever method you use to get the crud out from as much of the inside of the chain HAS to benefit more than simply wiping the chain...no-one could argue otherwise.

Whether you can be bothered to, or have the equipment or cleaner to do it is another matter.

It's not REALLY neccessary to do it with solvents, compressed air etc etc...but if done properly, (as Mr Pig says, by drying the solvent cleaned chain in an oven, to get rid of all the traces of solvent that would otherwise immedaitely start attacking the new oil)...the benefits are undeniable.

A chain with grinding crud in the rollers and links...or no grinding crud...what would you choose ?

It's about having the time, equipment and the will to do it. No big deal if you havnt the time etc..your chain isnt going to fall apart, but like everything...you can do an acceptable job..or a good job.
 

yenrod

Guest
>KMC.

Though I did ask for a Sedis ! :evil: :smile:

The KMC ive got has been rode hard & competed on soooo !

Got 2 spare links in case though- though its normal to get spares.

:tongue:
 

yello

Guest
KMC here too.

But, from the KMC page...

NEVER EVER use a so-called'chain washing machine' in combination with solvent. This is the one and only sure way to instantly ruin your chain.

but Uncle Sheldon says...

The other major way to clean chains is with an on-the-bike cleaning machine. These are boxes which clip over the lower run of chain. They contain brushes and rollers that flex the chain and run it through a bath of solvent.

The on-the-bike system has the advantage that the cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the rollers. This scrubbing action may do a better job of cleaning the innards.

So who to believe. I've been using a Park Tools chain cleaner for years and I can't say that I've shortened the life of my chains.
 
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