Why was beginning road cycling so difficult for me?

[Northamger Abbey]

I've had my Triban 3 since early November and up to the present time I have been out 3 times! All 3 rides were short and breathless affairs. The last time I went out I found it much easier going just by using the gears better.
A total noobie to cycling, it's a learning curve where one has to learn to ride the bike properly. I had a mountain bike several years ago, used to ride it often and it felt easy. Thought it would be even easier with the T3 but forgot to take into account the several years that had passed since my MTB days. MY fitness is mega poor .

It was very daunting taking to the roads on an out and out road bike. I wobbled about on my first ride. By the 3rd, I'd learnt quite a bit, both by physical riding experience and reading (on the internet)
I'm now desperate to get out and ride my T3. Held back by the weather. Can't wait for better weather to get out there and continue my learning.

For the record. I'm a short ar*e, carrying too much weight and a belly sponsored by several breweries!

I've had my Triban 3 since early November and up to the present time I have been out 3 times! All 3 rides were short and breathless affairs. The last time I went out I found it much easier going just by using the gears better.
A total noobie to cycling, it's a learning curve where one has to learn to ride the bike properly. I had a mountain bike several years ago, used to ride it often and it felt easy. Thought it would be even easier with the T3 but forgot to take into account the several years that had passed since my MTB days. MY fitness is mega poor.

It was very daunting taking to the roads on an out and out road bike. I wobbled about on my first ride. By the 3rd, I'd learnt quite a bit, both by physical riding experience and reading (on the internet)
I'm now desperate to get out and ride my T3. Held back by the weather. Can't wait for better weather to get out there and continue my learning.

For the record. I'm a short ar*e, carrying too much weight and a belly sponsored by several breweries!

I ask of your experience here. As a beginner, when casually cycling downhill on a road bike
should one stop peddling or continue to be consistent. If one should slow down, would this be done by slowly pressing the brakes or something else?

In addition, when it comes to changing gradients on hills, how should I use the gears?

ANSWERS FROM ALL ARE WELCOME

 

[David Haworth]

I ask of your experience here. As a beginner, when casually cycling downhill on a road bike
should one stop peddling or continue to be consistent. If one should slow down, would this be done by slowly pressing the brakes or something else?

In addition, when it comes to changing gradients on hills, how should I use the gears?

ANSWERS FROM ALL ARE WELCOME

I'm not sure there are official answers to your questions here, just a matter of what you want to do.

When going downhill it depends if you want to go faster (pedal and go down into the drops) or you're happy to take a break in which case you stop pedalling, let the bike freewheel and enjoy the breeze/view.

When you want to slow down then use the brakes, gently if you've got room or more sharply if a small child has run into your path. Other options include sitting up a bit to allow the wind to catch you a bit more, or hitting a tree (this is an advanced technique that the mountain bikers like to show off

Regarding gradients, you generally have two choices, man up and pedal harder or change down gears until you find a gear you can pedal at comfortably. The first is faster, the second is probably better for you. If you run out of gears then either man up or get off and push when changing gear it's usually a good idea to slacken off on the pedal pressure a bit (though I usually forget..)

Just do whatever feels right. You've got time. Put some hours into the saddle and ride. Stuff will feel more natural over time and the various tips you see from others start to make more sense. As you ride more you begin to get a better feeling for what you need to work on, and what's a hardware issue that might need fixing.

Keep at it and good luck

David

 

[RWright]

I ask of your experience here. As a beginner, when casually cycling downhill on a road bike
should one stop peddling or continue to be consistent. If one should slow down, would this be done by slowly pressing the brakes or something else?

In addition, when it comes to changing gradients on hills, how should I use the gears?

ANSWERS FROM ALL ARE WELCOME

To answer the first question and not trying to be short, it depends on how fast you want to go down the hill. I coast down some hills for a breather and other times if I am trying to make good time I keep pedaling.

Slowly pressing on the brakes is a good way to slow down, just be careful and get used to your brakes. Using the brakes is about the only non violent feasible way to slow down that I know of. You can change to a more upright riding position and use your body to break off some speed but that will not bring you to a stop if necessary. Again, get used to your brakes, especially the front ones before you start pulling too hard and quickly on the levers. (I am assuming you are using hand brakes)

The gears take practice, Go to lower gears to go up hills, higher gears as you are going down. Try not to change gears when you have a lot of pressure on the pedals, it makes it more difficult to change them and it can damage them. The more you ride the more natural it will become and you will start thinking a little more ahead.

Get out and do some riding just for fun before you get too technical and watch out for traffic. I think there are training classes offered in many areas of the UK too. It might be fun to take one of those.

Edit: I didn't see David's post when I started typing mine. or maybe I would have just typed yeah what David said^^^

 

[Kins]

Takes a bit of getting used to travelling down hills. I have to go up one hill then down a quite steep downhill section every day on the way to work. It is lined with parked cars one side and traffic is partially in my lane going down.

When I started cycling again last November I used to brake coming down the hill and sat up on my mountain bike to use the wind to slow me further. Now on my road bike I change up to highest gear and pedal all the way down. Its just a matter of time and confidence.

My hands still hurt on long rides because I still ride my mountain bike to work and only road bike for recreation, so going to the drops my hands have to get used to it more. Also if its your own bike you can fiddle with the set up till its tailored to yourself.

 

[Northamger Abbey]

Thank you for all your answers. Very helpful!

 

[yello]

when casually cycling downhill on a road bike should one stop peddling or continue to be consistent.

Personally, I like to continue to turn the pedals. Not driving the bike but just turning the pedals. This does 2 things; stops your muscles getting cold on the descent and helps to relax them after the efforts of the previous climb (as chances are to descend you've probably had to climb!). Also, if you've got a climb coming up (as climbs can follow descents!) it helps you to get up to a decent cadence to tackle the climb. (If you can carry a decent amount of speed from a descent onto the climb, it'll make it that bit easier).

It's difficult on a forum to advise about how to use gears. It'd be much easier to do when riding alongside you, so perhaps you could ask a club mate? They'll be able to see what you're doing and comment. But I would give you one word to think about - anticipation. You don't want to be changing gear under load (i.e. when you're already pressing hard on the pedals). Look ahead of you and try to anticipate what gearing you'll need. This will come with practice. It is a learning experience... and on that point, the thing I really wanted to say after reading your posts....

You're sounding demoralised. Please please don't be. Cycling is new to you and you will get used to it - just as you have gotten used to the many many new things you have done in your life. A road bike feels all wrong to begin with, that's normal. It sounds as though you might benefit from a bike fitting, if not to make changes then a least to re-assure yourself that the bike's ok for you. Again, there might be someone in your club that can help out there.

As to your physique - it is as it is! Not a great deal to be done there, you have to do the best you can! BUT look around, not all cyclists are gangly whippets (though most of them are, it's true!). With hours on the bike, you could become leaner but even if you don't, it certainly isn't anything to hold you back.

 

[Northamger Abbey]

Thanks a ton. I feel very assured for next Saturday. I'll see where I can go right.

 

[Fab Foodie]

Hi Northamger! Welcome.
Fitting to your bike is important and we all end-up doing some tweaking as mentioned - shims, different bars, shorter stems etc.
This is a good read:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
Relaxing on the bike is important too and that's related to feeling comfortable, check if you're tense or whether your bum is well planted on the saddle and your shoulders loose.
Going downhill .... Freewheeling is good for a fatty like me as I roll real well, but I like to pedal like fury because I like going fast! It takes confidence in your machine to do this, you again need to be relaxed especially if you get a bit of a nervous wobble-on (shimmy) and you need to look away up the road for hazards. 50mph on a bike is a blast!
Practice braking. It's the front which does the work, though the rear is useful for slowing down hills. Practice somewhere safe learning how hard you can use the brakes, move your bum back on the saddle when you have to stop quickly. Again confidence with what the machine can do/does is very valuable.
Going up hills, relax, anticipate, sit back on the saddle and spin the gear that feels comfortable ... oh, and relax - did I say that?, don't fight it. Short climbs learn to stand and power out of the saddle and then spin over the top. When you stand on the pedals change up at least 1 gear if not 2.
Keep asking questions

 

[GetAGrip]

Just added a road bike to my collection and although it was good, it was also very strange and I agree with you, braking did not come easy. I spent time just tweeking my riding position and found moving the saddle forward approx 1/2 cm made all the difference for reaching the brakes. Keep at it! It will all come together. Good luck and to CC

 

[Fab Foodie]

moving the saddle forward approx 1/2 cm made all the difference for reaching the brakes to CC

Point of order peeps - that this is not the right way to solve the problem. You need to optimise your seating position for power efficiency and comfort and then move the bars for reach, not move the saddle to meet the bars.

As you were boys and girls.

 

[Sittingduck]

Got to agree with FF on that point. Sort the saddle position, relative to position over the BB and tweak the rest to fit, eg. slightly shorter stem or shims on the brake levers.

 

[David Haworth]

When going down hills I often pedal, esp if it's a night ride just because I have a hope rear hub and it clicks *really* loudly if I freewheel it's quite annoying actually...

 

[Gravity Aided]

Told me I should pedal on the downhills to keep my legs from stiffening up, and to get more speed I might need to overcome the next hill. I live in the Central (Prairie) part of the state of Illinois, so hills aren't all that plentiful

 

[GetAGrip]

Point of order peeps - that this is not the right way to solve the problem. You need to optimise your seating position for power efficiency and comfort and then move the bars for reach, not move the saddle to meet the bars.

As you were boys and girls.

Sorry FF, I should have have added that, on doing so, my overall position was more efficient - more power to the peddles and more comfort. There was now an imaginary line from bottom of knee to middle of my peddle. Actually, I HAD been riding with my saddle set too far back. (original rough set up was done in the shop)
And that, one benefit of getting the saddle position correct was ...... a more comfortable reach of brakes when on the hoods

 

[Fab Foodie]

Sorry FF, I should have have added that, on doing so, my overall position was more efficient - more power to the peddles and more comfort. There was now an imaginary line from bottom of knee to middle of my peddle. Actually, I HAD been riding with my saddle set too far back. (original rough set up was done in the shop)
And that, one benefit of getting the saddle position correct was ...... a more comfortable reach of brakes when on the hoods

Accepted.
Case dismissed!