Wish me luck...

[ayceejay]

This is where I politely bow out of this thread

 

[vickster]

Thanks for your help

 

[RedRider]

It's a lot easier to show than tell isn't?
I was unsure about chain tension too so I asked a mechanic to show me and now I know. As others have said, half to three quarters of an inch slack at the tightest spot will be just right but I'm sure Pearsons will be happy to show.
After then it'll be easier each time you do it.
Far easier than faffing about with gears.

 

[potsy]

I plan to get the lbs to give me a quick demo when I pick mine up, I'm sure it will be fine with a bit of practice.

How is it now @vickster?

 

[vickster]

I plan to get the lbs to give me a quick demo when I pick mine up, I'm sure it will be fine with a bit of practice.

How is it now @vickster?

Not ridden as been in office

Might pop to Pearsons first thing if time / awake!!

 

[totallyfixed]

Did anyone mention that it is also useful to find the tightest point on the chain as you turn the pedals [easier with bike inverted] because the vast majority of chainrings are not round.
You then tighten the chain at this point. Just trying to be helpful. .

 

[I like Skol]

Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws. Then nip up the non drive side. If tension is out then undo drive side and adjust.

You 'walk' the wheel into place.Then tighten up tight.

This is what I would do/did do when my kids had their single speed 1st bikes and also when I was a lad starting out, back in the day, when we was too poor to have them fancy geared thingy-ma-jigs

 

[fossyant]

PS Most chain tugs don't fit the Pearson frame. I have a Wills Wheels Version, same frame, but in a FASTER red colour. The tugs I ordered wouldn't fit the dropouts.

 

[vickster]

PS Most chain tugs don't fit the Pearson frame. I have a Wills Wheels Version, same frame, but in a FASTER red colour. The tugs I ordered wouldn't fit the dropouts.

It has them, I assume they fit. Not sure what time I'll be able to get there to get the chain checked. Hopefully I can ride the mile as I've got a sore foot which hurts walking

 

[Cuchilo]

Is that from kicking the bike ?

 

[vickster]

Sorted And shown how best to do too...hopefully however I won't need to remove the wheel for a very long time with brand new Pro4 endurance tyres fitted

 

[potsy]

Sorted And shown how best to do too...hopefully however I won't need to remove the wheel for a very long time with brand new Pro4 endurance tyres fitted

Go on then, how did they show you?

 

[vickster]

Go on then, how did they show you?

To hold the bolt with one hand, and stedy the tyre with the other while pulling towards and then how to tighten and straighten the wheel...he made it look easy...if it is only time will tell!

 

[phantasmagoriana]

Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws.

Sounds dangerous! I'm glad my bike didn't come with any chainsaws...

On the portable 15mm spanners front, I carry one of these in my saddle pack: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-2812-Spanner-Stubby-15mm/dp/B0039ULMWI

 

[Smurfy]

Chain tension should be around 1/2" (12mm) of play in the longest section. If it is too slack it will fall off, too tight and you'll ruin the chainring and rear gear

In my experience this is about right ^^^^^

The only tricky bit is that most setups have a bit of eccentricity in them, and so the tension will vary slightly as the cranks and wheel rotate.