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Tankengine

Active Member
I don't think it was down to the position of the wheel. I don't know how to assess the chain tension other than it not looking slack or falling off when turning the bike upside down!

Gah! SS is meant to be simple!

I usually go by middle of chain, finger under and lift upwards - if there is more than 1 or 2 cm movement it's too slack. Seems to work for me but I mostly just work on trial and error with it.
 

jim55

Guru
Location
glasgow
If it ( the chain ) looks tight I.e not sagging then it'll prob b ok for ss , if ur wanting to run it fixed that's a diff matter but as is I'd invest in a chain tug that fits on dropout and by screwing/ tightening the bolt it pulls wheel back and therefore tightens chain ,but it's a fine balance , too tight and it becomes a bind on sprocket and wears stuff faster , you can tell though cos when it's too tight it makes a kinda Graunching / grinding noise when u turn pedals
 

ayceejay

Guru
Location
Rural Quebec
This is turning into a saga Vicky. I think you need o invest in a work stand to start with but then chain tugs as shown
chain_tug.jpg
You use the tugs to pull the wheel into position (with the axle nuts loose) and to get the chain tension right, Then you tighten the nuts. The
nuts should look like this and the knurled washer should move independently of the nut proper this allows you to really tighten without damaging your frame.

track nuts.jpg
 
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vickster

vickster

Legendary Member
This is turning into a saga Vicky. I think you need o invest in a work stand to start with but then chain tugs as shown
View attachment 85144
You use the tugs to pull the wheel into position (with the axle nuts loose) and to get the chain tension right, Then you tighten the nuts. The
nuts should look like this and the knurled washer should move independently of the nut proper this allows you to really tighten without damaging your frame.

View attachment 85146
Yes, that's what I'm doing. It's quite hard with one pair of clumsy hands. I had an extra pair courtesy of @jefmcg this afternoon :okay: However, knowing what chain tension is 'right' is the mysterious part here, how tight it should be
 
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potsy

Rambler
Location
My Armchair
How long before a hardly used Pearson single speed appears in the for sale forum? :whistle:

At least I've learnt something from this thread, I now know what chain tugs are for :okay:
 

GGJ

Veteran
Location
Scotland
Chain tension should be around 1/2" (12mm) of play in the longest section. If it is too slack it will fall off, too tight and you'll ruin the chainring and rear gear
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws. Then nip up the non drive side. If tension is out then undo drive side and adjust.

You 'walk' the wheel into place.Then tighten up tight.
 
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OP
vickster

vickster

Legendary Member
Surely you pull the wheel towards you, and not push it as that makes the chain more slack
 

jim55

Guru
Location
glasgow
Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws. Then nip up the non drive side. If tension is out then undo drive side and adjust.

You 'walk' the wheel into place.Then tighten up tight.
^^^ this is the way to do it but we are talking about vickster ( who didn't know what a chainstay was lol) :whistle:
 

jim55

Guru
Location
glasgow
If ur standing behind the bike then you pull the wheel towards you but if ur experienced and standing at side of bike then pushing / making wheel move towards tightening up the chain / whatever you wana call it - will work
 

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
To get the right tension, I just jam my hand between the seat tube and the tyre and tighten up both nuts with my free hand and then the spanner. As long as it doesn't grind, it should be about right. As others have said, the chain should be able to move up &down about half an inch.

But one more complexity, chainrings are not always round. You can get tight spots and slack spots. If this happens position the cranks where the tight spot is and then tension the chain. You will know if your rings are not quite true when you have varying degrees of chain slack as you rotate the pedals.

Cheers Keith
 
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